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Lifestyle

My Michelin-Starred London

Emma Sharp Dalton-Brown

Sunday, February 19, 2012



It's no wonder the Brits drink so much tea. They have to continuously ply their insides with hot-flavoured water just to keep themselves warm! One may be able to wear eight layers of thermals, woolen sweaters and fur coats, but when your blood and bones are freezing, there are two solutions: drink more tea, or move to the tropics. Okay, that last one may be a little drastic. I suppose a very hot bath could also do the trick. But seriously, if you don't like tea now, hop on an aeroplane to London in the winter, and you'll be sipping Earl Grey, English Breakfast, or PG Tips in no time. To tell you the truth, unless you hit a particularly unusual glorious day, you'll be hooked on the hot beverage no matter what month of the year you go!

Whether you're standing at Southfield's underground train station waiting for the tube, sitting in a dive café in Paddington, or hanging out at the exclusive (members only) Art's Club in Mayfair, you must have a cup of tea. Of course, the latter is the preferable place, where you may also enjoy the Afternoon Tea that starts at three o'clock. In this case, you'll get a silver pot of properly infused tea leaves, along with three tiers of sandwiches, cakes and scones. Gloriously light, fluffy scones, slathered with sweet whipped butter, and then coated with real strawberry jam. OMG! To think I had three! I swear they do it to distract you from gawking at the glamorous crowd of businessmen, musicians, actors, and members of the aristocracy.

From Mayfair, all the way up to Marylebone High Street, there is no shortage of restaurants and cafés. St Christopher's Place, just north of Bond Street Tube station, buzzes most of the day with Oxford Street shoppers and tourists, who have a wide choice of eateries. Among the many are the growing Carluccio's (Italian) and Pizza Express chains, Café Crêperie (for, you guessed it... crêpes!), and Sofra, which serves very tasty Middle-Eastern food. Just around the corner is the popular Pontefract Castle, a traditional English pub which has been serving sausages and pints of ales to the local suits for as far back as anyone can remember.

Then, of course, there's Marylebone High Street itself, which is home to New Zealand chef Peter Gordon's The Providores, an Asian fusion restaurant which has the more casual Tapa Room on its ground floor. At The Providores, which is cosy and quaint, the chef and his staff make every customer feel special. With my deadly allergies to peanut, tree nuts and sesame, the chef decided to make me my own meal. "What do you feel like having?" asked the waitress. Stunned at the open offer, I stuttered and said, "Anything."

"No, seriously," she continued. "Chef will make you exactly what you want. What do you feel like?"

"Um," I struggled with embarrassment. "Fish, salad, perhaps a hot dish."

Twenty minutes later my cousin and I were served a salmon and quinoa salad, fish and herb-steamed dumplings, and beautifully rare fillet steak with Asian herbs and spices on a bed of steamed spinach, almost a combination of Continental, Indian and Thai. Words simply aren't sufficient. Just go there (and tell them you want whatever they gave the 'allergy' girl from Jamaica).

If it's quick and cheap you're looking for, then I'd recommend Pret a Manger, or Eat. Or there's the Real Food Company, where you can bring your laptop, plug in, and get on with some writing. The thick home-made soups, such as the fire-roasted red pepper and goat cheese, the pot pies, and toasties will keep you satiated (and warm!). And if you stay there long enough, you may even hear some reggae and soca music (I did, and I sang aloud). The Nordic Bakery, on New Cavendish Street, is also a desirable venue where you can type, and eat cinnamon buns and interesting rye bread sandwiches, which resemble cakes. Before leaving the area, stop off at La Fromagerie on Moxon Street, where you can eat lunch (again) or pick up a variety of gourmet condiments. The highlight is bien sur, the cheese room. Ensconced in a cool glass cave are shelves of brie wheels, blocks of gouda, and rounds of goat cheese.

Travelling west to Notting Hill Gate, as recommended by Johnny and Chloe Buckland, I had to try out Granger & Co, on Westbourne Grove, for myself. Teeming with people from breakfast straight through to dinner, this contemporary brasserie brings joy to the loyal locals and even customers from south of the river! Down the road is Daylesford Organic Farmshop & Café, an indoor gourmet market boasting that their fruits, vegetables, poultry, meats, eggs, cheeses, jams, chutneys, and breads come "straight from our farm to your fork". This sustainable organic farm is right at the fingertips of many Londoners. There are two other London locations: Pimlico and Selfridges Food Hall on Oxford Street.

As you're near Bayswater already, with possibly a few hours to spare, now would be a good time to catch a movie at the Odeon in Whiteleys Shopping Centre. It's more than just a theatre. Upstairs, Odeon has recently opened The Lounge, where one can enjoy "fine food and film". La-Z-Boy chairs and sofas outfit five screening rooms, and Rowley Leigh of Le Café Anglais serves up a "finger, fork and spoon" menu. With an entire cinema to myself, I spent one afternoon sipping cappuccinos and nibbling on salted popcorn and salsify fritters, while swooning over George Clooney in The Descendants!

Head a little further west to Chiswick, where young and hip families have begun to inhabit this up-and-coming part of town. Boasting reams of restaurants and pubs, such as the formal La Trompette, The Duke of York and The Devonshire Arms (all are on Devonshire Road), there's no shortage of choice in Chiswick!

Skip south, across the bridge to Barnes, and you'll come to The Depot Riverside Bar & Restaurant, where a family Sunday lunch or a romantic dinner à deux may be appreciated in the cosiness of the banquettes, or along the conservatory that hovers over the River Thames. From roasts and soufflés, to Shepherd's pie and pâtés, the chef presents each plate with style and grace that could only be awarded an ace! San Remo Restaurant, close by, is loved by those who equally appreciate a chic crowd and casual comfort, and if you have a large party, why not hire the private dining room in the back.

One should always save the best for last, and that would have to be the Michelin-starred Chez Bruce, on Bellevue Road in Wandsworth. This restaurant is the epitome of fine dining, with the likes of: foie gras and chicken liver parfait on toasted brioche; raw scallops with lightly pickled vegetables and basil oil; risotto nero with sea bass, grilled baby squid, broccoli, chilli and garlic; confit rabbit leg with spatzle, crisp pancetta, mustard and prunes; chocolate caramel mille-feuille with roast pear and dulce de leche stracciatella ice cream; and blood orange sorbet. Salivating so soon? To boot, the infamous wine buff, Anthony Rose, revealed about two years ago, that Chez Bruce also have the best wine list. The food and wine, paired with what could only be described as exquisite service, are markers for a well-deserved Michelin star, indeed! Perhaps the city of London itself should be awarded its own Michelin star.



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