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Trinidad's magnificent mansions
Text and photos By Wayne Bowen
Sunday, January 05, 2003

The Queen's College. Possibly the most famous high school in Trinidad. Many of the country's most influential personalities have studied here including Eric Williams - historian, intellectual and 'father of the nation'.

"The Magnificent Seven" are a set of wonderful mansions built in Trinidad's capital Port-of-Spain during the early 1900s. Reputedly named after a Yul Brynner movie of the same name, the buildings were built as family homes by wealthy Trinidadian businessmen. They made a statement of 'arrival' and perhaps symbolised a growing self-confidence amongst some local groups taking their place amongst the country's upper classes for the first time. The buildings themselves have a certain whimsy and granduer that probably tell something about each of the owners who erected them.

Stollmeyer's Castle. Looking more like a Disneyland fairytale castle, it was actually inspired by Balmoral, the British royal family's Scottish retreat.

Built on lands across from the Queen's Park Savannah, the lots had been part of the former St Clair's sugar estate. A part of the area was reserved for the construction of the Queen's College and the other lots were put on sale around 1902/3. When buildings started going up, several Trinidadians were amazed. All in a row, several impressive structures were going up in seeming competition. As they each neared completion, just how huge and different these buildings were could be fully appreciated. The buildings often combined various architectural styles and were described by many as 'castles', a nod to the turrets on some of them. With names like "Killarney", "Hayes Court" and "Knowsley", they soon captured popular imagination, becoming a source of reflected pride in Trindadian workmanship, wealth and style for many.

Archbishop's Residence. Famous for its castle-like turrets, it's a popular photo stop for visitors to Port-of-Spain.

One of the most impressive is the Queen's College which has a reputation as being one of the best high schools for boys in the Carribbean. The main building is dominated by a clock tower, popular with birds as a resting point. The high arches and some stained glass windows are reminiscent of a place of worship and no doubt inspire some reverence from scholars. The driveways and gates were specially designed to allow speedy passage of the fire brigade, which in those days was horse-drawn. The building itself was designed by an old boy, Daniel Hahn, who was the Public Works Department's chief draughtsman at the time. When Hahn attended Queen's College, the school was located elsewhere. His design has been described as being of a "German Renaissance" style which is perhaps less surprising given that he had studied in the German city of Berlin.

Next door to the overpowering Queen's College is the far more modest "Hayes Court" which serves as the Anglican Bishop's residence. It was named after Bishop Thomas Hayes, who died in 1904 just before returning to Trinidad. He was the Diocese's second bishop and had served piously since 1889. Hayes Court is the least impressive of the 'big' buildings along the Savannah's west side, but it's a big house nonetheless.
Just next door to the Anglican's house is "Mille Fleur" which, like some of the other buildings, has a tower with a spire on it. This house has been described as a "French Renaissance" style and was built for a lady called Enrique Prada. It was the second to last "Magnificent" house built in the area, being completed before "Hayes Court", which was finshed in 1910. "Mille Fleur" was acquired by the government after being apparently abandoned for several years. Plans are afoot to restore it to its former splendour.

White Hall. The Prime Minister's office, the building was recently used as a set for the film 'Mystic Massuer' based in the VS Naipaul novel.

White Hall is an impressive three-storeyed building which shimmers and glows in bright sunlight. Now used as the prime minister's office, it is an impressive stone building. Recently featured in the Merchant and Ivory film production of The Mystic Massuer which was shot on location in Trinidad recently, it is the first novel by Trinidad's Nobel Laureate, VS Naipaul to be made into a feature film. During World War Two it was used as the headquarters for US military forces stationed on the island, who vacated it when Germany was defeated in 1945. It has also been used as offices for the British Council, a library, an art centre and was also slated for use as the headquarters for the ill-fated West Indies Federation government - Trinidad having been selected as the regional state capital.

Mille Fleur. Another of the famous Port-of-Spain mansions known as 'the Magnificent Seven'.

The idea of a West Indian political union between the English-speaking islands had been floated by the British government who then controlled the islands. Opinion then was that small island states would find it hard to survive on their own in the world, but as part of a Federation probably would. It received enthusiastic support from many of the region's foremost thinkers and politicians especially since it paved the way for the eventual political independence of the islands collectively. When Jamaica eventually pulled out, Trinidadian premier Eric Williams displayed his mathematical wit by stating, "One from nine leaves none!" Jamaica and Trinidad went on to gain independence in 1962. Today's Organisation of Eastern Caribbean States is often used as an example of a small scale version of what a larger West Indies Federation may have achieved. All the member states share the same currency and many of the same laws.
The performance of their central bank and its ability to keep the Eastern Caribbean dollar stable over many years has been lauded as phenomenal by experts worldwide.

White Hall was the largest of the flashy homes built across from the Queen's Park Savannah and originally featured a rooftop garden, massive bedrooms, a library, ballrooms and a wine cellar where wine was specially bottled for the owner. The interior was significantly remodelled in 1999 to its allow efficient use as the prime minister's office. White Hall is a very impressive building and literally dazzles in the sunlight, perhaps filling many a visitor with awe.
Besides "White Hall", the government also uses another of the famous seven, "Knowsley" as the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. It was constructed and designed by the architectural firm "Taylor Gillies" who also had a role in designing other nearby mansions - "Stollmeyer's Castle" and "Hayes Court".

Stollmeyer's Castle is one of the most popular of all the fabulous houses along the Savannah. Children especially enjoy its 'fairytale-castle' like design. Its interesting design has been variously described as being part French, part German, part Scottish and completely bizarre. The Scottish influence may be attributed perhaps to architect Robert Gillies who hailed from the land of bagpipes, Burns and kilts.
Supposedly modelled after Balmoral Castle in Scotland, its first inhabitants gave it the Scottish name of "Killarney". For somtime now it's been more popularly known as "Stollmeyer's Castle" after its first owner, Charles Foullier Stollmeyer. He and his wife never did live in the sand-coloured building, instead presenting it as a wedding present to their son who's wife first named it. It was also used by the US Army during the 1940s war years and then later as a tourist's attraction where tours could be taken. Today it creates an exciting visual surprise for anyone taking their first stroll around the Queen's Park Savannah, just across the road from it.

"Rumoor" was originally known as "Ambard's House" after it's first owner Lucien R Ambard. Built in the early 1900s, it would change hands a few times ending up with Timothy Roodal in 1940. When his granddaughter, Yvonne Morgan, moved in years later, she renamed it by combining her grandfather's name and her own to coin the new "Rumoor". Its impressive iron fretwork reminds of an elaborate 'gingerbread' style but like the rest of the building is in need of restoration.
With whimsical domed roofs, arched windows, and iron gate posts similar in design to the balcony fretworks, this is an architecturally and visually impressive house. Ambard spared no expense in building his dream house and tiles, marbles and fixtures were imported from France and Italy. "Rumoor" has been described as having a French Baroque Colonial style by a Trinidad Government info sheet which credits the design to an unnamed Frenchman. He would be saddened to see it dissolving away from neglect as it appears to be now.
Moves are afoot to stop this and some of the other buildings making up the "Magnificent Seven" from decay, one can only hope those involved will be successful in these efforts.


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