Off the beaten path, Haiti's jazz festival comes of age


Off the beaten path, Haiti's jazz festival comes of age

Sunday, January 27, 2019

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PORT-AU-PRINCE, Haiti (AFP) -- At a time when most of the world's jazz capitals are buried under snow or suffering through sub-zero temperatures, Haiti is offering fans a week of outdoor concerts showcasing the best talents in the business in a balmy Caribbean clime.

Now in its thirteenth year, PaPJazz, as the Festival International de Jazz de Port-au-Prince styles itself, is aiming high.

“Our ambition is to be the Caribbean jazz festival, the benchmark in terms of both organization and programming,” explains Milena Sandler, director of the Haiti Jazz Foundation, which organizes the festival.

Proving that 13 isn't always an unlucky number, the festival this year has secured for the first time the talents of Cecile McLorin Salvant, currently one of the biggest singers in the world of jazz.

They had been trying to lure the 29-year-old American to the Haitian capital for the past five years without success.

But if PaPJazz can now secure the biggest global stars, its survival still hangs by a thread.

“Putting on a festival anywhere is complicated. In Haiti, especially so,” says Sandler. “But it's a challenge we take on every year because we love what we do,” she adds.

The Caribbean's poorest economy is racked by a series of seemingly never-ending crises; right now, it's chronic fuel shortages that have put the festival organisers' nerves to the test.

The few gas stations in Port-au-Prince are thronged by dozens of vehicles, a nightmare that gave pause to even the most passionate of jazz fans.

But thanks to carpooling and black market fuel, plenty of members of the public were able to get themselves to the Saturday opening held in the grounds of a major hotel.

“I'm always in awe of the results the team in Haiti is able to get because things are never easy here. It's exceptional,” says Jeanine Millet, a festival-goer who says she hasn't missed an edition of PaPjazz since it began in 2007.


American trumpeter and composer Terence Blanchard who has no fewer than five Grammys under his belt, spent an hour Saturday morning providing tips and mentorship to young Haitian trumpeters.

“The passion that people have for creativity and music in this country, it's just logical that there is a jazz festival here, that mixes the international artistes with local artistes,” he said at the end of the workshop.

Still buzzing from the thrill of playing with his idol, Toussaint Smith Alain says he is “really happy to have been able to rub shoulders with this talent”.

“Really thank you to the jazz festival that offers this great opportunity to us Haitians while many countries do not have this chance,” says the 24-year-old.

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