SO’s reasons for paying keen attention to Grace Wales Bonner Men’s Fall 2018 were twofold: Wales Bonner has Jamaican roots and her presentation included four of our Rock stars. Stepping out for the designer who explored the concept of identity with a collection that was both sporty and romantic were Saint International models Tevin Steele, Jonny Brown, Jodanne Wellington and Jermaine Downer.

WWD described the show as telling the story of a black sailor returning to land and trying to make sense of his identity along the way, with a collection that was more fluid and relaxed compared to her previous outings, yet also maintained the sense of romance and poetry she is known for.

With the connection of man and water in mind, Wales Bonner loosened up her silhouettes and included more sporty, nautical elements, as in rolled-up vinyl trousers, loose parkas with exaggerated pockets and nylon sweaters. Splashes of baby glue gingham seen on collars, the hems of trousers and the lining of hats — courtesy of Stephen Jones — recalled sailors’ uniforms.

While the range had a more utilitarian focus, Wales Bonner maintained “a vulnerability in the masculinity” she presented, to reflect her character’s quest for identity. She achieved this through cropped, skin-baring peacocks, floating shirts and tailored jackets featuring front slits that looked equally good on male and female models.