Here’s a historiographical fact: Between 1819 and 1830, Gran Colombia was the most distinguished state in the colonised Spanish empire. The area encompassed present-day Colombia, Venezuela, mainland Ecuador, Panama, and parts of northern Peru and north-western Brazil. In 1830, Venezuela gained full independence as a separate country. We mention this because when it comes to arepas, there’s a great debate on their origins. Are they Colombian or Venezuelan? The discourse is similar to that surrounding the never-ending jollof war between Ghana and Nigeria. What is irrefutable, however, is the shared similarities between certain aspects of Colombian and Venezuelan cultures. No wonder the team behind the Corporate Area’s newest bistro — Arepa House — gets along swimmingly.

Arepa House, which opened in Progressive Plaza on Barbican Road two weeks ago, is a family affair. Venezuelan-Jamaican sisters Natalia and Tess-Maria Leon are the restaurant owners, while their Venezuelan mom Milagros Leon and Natalia’s Colombian partner, Juan Mosquera, are directors. Though the restaurant is Natalia’s brainchild, the culinary bedrock was laid by mom Milagros, who came to Jamaica as a young woman to study English. Here she met a young dental student, Michael, and fast-forwarding a bit, they got married and had a family.

Arepas are discs of unleavened bread made from a special precooked white cornmeal (P.A.N is a trusted go-to brand for making arepas) that can be fried, grilled, or baked. Before serving, they are cut open to form a pocket and stuffed with various fillings. At Arepa House, you have a choice of egg, tuna, chicken, beef, shrimp, and vegetables. The arepas are slightly sweet, wonderfully toothsome and satisfying. Thursday Food sampled the beef arepa and deferred to chef Natalia to pick the toppings; we were delighted with her choice of cheddar, diced tomatoes and pickled jalapeños. Delish!

Desire something more substantial? Opt for a pabellón (aka an arepa bowl) — a traditional Venezuelan dish consisting of rice, a meat protein (traditionally shredded beef), black beans, and fried ripe plantains. At Arepa House, customers can have their pabellón with chicken, shrimp, vegetables or beef and several toppings that include fresh avocado, red onion, diced tomatoes, and a vibrant and moreish guasacaca (a traditional avocado dip). All dishes are served with sides of the house sauce. Venezuelan treats round out the menu. There are tequeños (dough-wrapped batons of cheese) that are either plain or guava-cheese, mandocas (deep-fried snack made from cornmeal and ripe plantains), and savoury pastry pockets.

But, what of beverages? Well, there’s terrific Colombian coffee, hand-squeezed lemonade and fresh homemade fruit juices. We recommend the pineapple.

Turning off of Barbican Road and stepping into Arepa House, you’re immediately transported to Venezuela, like a guest in the Leons’ living room. The décor reflects the South American country’s rich culture and incorporates Milagros’s art. The mural, which draws every customer in, was done by local artist Kirk Cockburn. The colours of the Venezuelan flag that represent wealth, courage, and independence are tastefully incorporated throughout the space. Arepa House is a welcomed addition to Kingston’s restaurant scene.