CHEF’S TABLE @ buzo
As the countdown to the 25th staging of the Jamaica Observer Table Talk Food Awards continues, our Food Awards judges are again on the move.
A year after its triumphant opening in Kingston, Jamaica, buzo has a new chef eager to take patrons on a culinary journey. Up first: an exclusive private dining experience with him and feedback from our judges.
Food Awards judge Pauline Edie
Eleganza Sofisticata
Slowly close your eyes and imagine being transported to Fermo, Italy.
And there we were at 8:00pm on Tuesday, May 7, stepping into buzo Osteria Italiana, Kingston having accepted an invite to the Chef’s Table hosted by Executive Chef Michele Pieragostini. The promise was for an evening of sophisticated Italian dining complete with “sophisticated chic” dress code, which to my absolute delight not only applied to the dress code but to everything presented!
You know that you will enjoy your dining experience when all senses are engaged and it was clear that this was top of mind with the five-course multi-dimensional journey upon which we embarked that went beyond taste. From the colours, textures and arrangement of the food; the tablescape; the sounds of Champagne flutes and wine glasses tinkling; cutlery meeting in unison as they sliced and diced through the delectable offerings that tantalised our taste buds. Conversation was interrupted every so often by the requisite pause to express delight with a particular course. Every single element of our dining experience from the tablescape for courses one and two with an abundance of flora and fauna, interspersed with white hydrangeas, lilies and natural elements of varying textures… buzo-branded tree trunk, rattan chargers, menus with a white backdrop in faded gold writing, secured with calico fabric and rattan which could be used as a bookmarker, and napkins made from refined linen; were carefully considered, which totally enhanced the experience.
The voyage commenced with Champagne and Strawberry Marinated Salmon, in a delicate balance of sugar and salt for 24 hours, and paired with Perrier Jouet Brut NV. The salmon was excellent. Perfect temperature, delicate on the palate with the flavour further intensified by the Champagne’s floral notes.
You know you cannot say Italy without pasta. So on to our second course. Homemade Fusillone Pasta, topped with the precise amount of foam made with Pecorino Romano, a hard and salty Italian cheese (made from sheep’s milk), produced exclusively in Italy and Tuna Confit lightly dusted with Foam Coffee Powder. This was paired with my absolute favourite white wine, Ruffino Classico Orvieto. Folks, I could taste the difference in the fresh, homemade pasta. Very light on the palate. When paired with the wine, each distinct taste and flavour fused, exploding on the tongue.
The third course took us “outside” to the front porch of buzo magically transformed to a seaside dining experience, be it to the north coast of our island, or indeed Italy, also known for its stunning beaches and coastline and where Chef Pieragostini spent his early years. Here, we were immersed in the simulated sounds of crashing waves and distant sounds of seagulls soaring above the gentle sea breeze which flowed from the strategically positioned mobile air conditioner units, and of course tastefully decorated with everything sea.
With this setting, imagine dining on jerked crab meat or snapper in a crispy, fried pizza loaf with roasted tomato and bell pepper drops on a bed of arugula. Paired with Marchesi De Barolo Gavi di Gavi, a dry white wine from Italy, its crispness not only helped to cleanse the palate after each bite but allowed us to fully appreciate the different flavours of the dish and especially brought out the intense and spicy flavour of the arugula. On a personal note, kudos to Chef Pieragostini for the fusion of cuisine and simulation which created a uniquely Jamaican/Italian experience for this course.
Back inside buzo. The tablescape is now reminiscent of ancient Rome and its luxe gastronomy.
The new menu, inked in the now-familiar gold on a white backdrop with images of birds and butterflies and herbs and spices in mint green seamlessly merged the outside with the inside and offered up entrée and dessert. For the entrée, again, close your eyes, and imagine a tender and exquisitely flavoured filet mignon atop a turmeric and roasted carrot purée. Can I tell you…beef nirvana! And, again, every single flavour was pulled from this delightful dish with a glass of Ruffino Chianti Reserve Ducale. My palate was alive, and dancing to the sounds of Italian folk music.
Our final course, dessert, themed “Sip and Paint buzo Style”, took us on an artistic, interactive journey. Now you all know how our mommas felt about us playing with food. “Do not play with your food” was oft repeated. But play we did! As Chef Pieragostini provided all the elements for us to play with our food. Again, imagine an easel, a spoon and varying dessert options presented for us to personalise our dessert…on an easel!
Our creativity with food did explode from these easels with the paintings of volcanoes to abstract art to still life and everything in between. Arguably, this was the most fun many of us have had with food since childhood. Thankfully, dessert awaited, a scrumptious light cheesecake paired with Santa Margherita Rosé.
All things must come to an end even blissful dining ones.
Thanks, Chef Michele Pieragostini.
buzo: Uncomplicated contentment
Food Awards judge Josina Jackson
La Dolce Vita, the sweet life. Savouring one of the simple joys of life, flavourful food, is the experience dining at buzo Osteria Italiana where the evening commenced with freshly baked breads and slithers of marinated salmon. Uncomplicated contentment.
Moving from the dining table, think: a progressive dining experience, the terrace at the front of the restaurant awaited. Transported to a beach setting, seemingly reminiscent of the shoreline along the Amalfi coast, the experience was a sensory extravaganza with fans providing a cool, gentle breeze, the sound of waves softly lapping on the beach creating a tranquil atmosphere and the saltiness of the sea savoured in the mouth from the jerk crab fried pizza served atop arugula with drops of roasted tomato and bell peppers. Al fresco dining in the heart of New Kingston.
“Do not play with your food” are words from childhood that ring in the ears of some. Yet, for the finale that’s what was encouraged for the interactive dessert. “Here is a blank canvas, create your masterpiece” was the instruction of buzo Executive Chef Michele Pieragostini. An explosion of creativity ensued with custard, mango coulis, strawberry coulis, meringue cookies used to create edible art. The judges were complimentary of one another’s edible masterpieces; works of art not to be devoured, however. Fortunately, the surprise was that the actual dessert was right before our eyes, part of the beautiful tablescape, which adorned the long, wide wooden table.
The Chef’s Table at buzo Osteria Italiana is a sophisticated Italian dining experience that is satiating.
Buon Appetito!
Highs & Lows
Food Awards Guest Judge Angelique Beaubrun
My expectations were high as I have enjoyed buzo’s à la carte menu. As we arrived, the centrepiece for the tablescape was pretty and elegant. The focaccia was delicious as usual, but the bread plates were slow in coming. The marinated salmon was salted just right. The second course pasta was perfectly al dente with a subtle pecorino sauce but the tuna confit tasted a bit fresh. The third course, pizza crab filled dough, was spongy with a flavourful tomato dipping sauce.
The second edible tablescape really captured the outdoor Italiano dining style. My medium-rare filet mignon was my favourite part of the entire meal with the complement of the semi-sweet roasted purée and the crispy caramelised onions. The sip and paint was interactive fun and the light cheesecake hiding in plain sight was an unsuspecting surprise. We were able to enjoy three very yummy mocktails made for us on the spot which were all outstanding!
The Evening’s Pours courtesy of Select Brands
Perrier-Jouet
Ruffino Classico Orvieto
Marchesi di Barolo Gavi
Ruffino Riserva Ducale Chianti
Santa Margherita Rose
