It finally happens: a royally lazy Sunday morning at Royal Plantation, followed by brunch. Expectations are for a full house this morning and as such, additional tables have been placed under a pretty large tent. Musicians Byard Lancaster and Marjorie Whylie are catching up on old times, and with the arrival of the mento band, a final decision now seems in place for the musical programme.

Executive chef Dennis McIntosh (formerly of the Ritz-Carlton) is back in his hometown and is seen positioning the mussels and oysters on the buffet. The Ocho Rios ‘set’ has started to arrive: Eva Myers makes a stylish entrance in white; while Peter Proudlock straightens his hat; the elegant trio of Sonia Daley, Claudia Oltrogge and Joyce Lynn-Isaacs. Laughter signals the arrival of the Kingston set led by the ebullient restaurateur Johanna Thwaites.

The activity at the hotel entrance reminds many of Sunday brunch at the Biltmore, such is the frenetic pace of valet parking. General manager Peter Fraser is, as usual, the consummate host, meeting, greeting and ushering. Perfectly chilled mimosas and bellinis are the hotel’s chosen beverages and are, might we quickly add, well received.

Hunger pangs lead us to the Royal brunch, an extraordinary gastronomical spread, sensibly positioned in air-conditioned splendour. It is here, that the Royal Plantation a member of the ‘leading small hotels of the world’, renders us completely hapless. With the words “where to start?” becoming frightfully rhetorical.

And so we buck tradition as we head towards the seafood bar, positioned full centre, and lift crabs, fresh blue point oysters, mussels, marlin and salmon. Freshly baked bread and butter found left of the entrance places us in good stead as does the basil- marinated tomato. Table conversation is interrupted from time to time by either the arrival of another stylish socialite or yet another stunning Easter hat.

With the treasures of the deep out of the way, we make a second visit, this time to enjoy the temptations of the hot buffet line with offerings of apricot glazed ham, herb crusted leg of lamb, grilled Caribbean lobster tail, whole snapper in pastry, ackee and saltfish, seasoned rice, macaroni and cheese and a myriad of other vegetables and starches.

We don’t think it necessary to divulge what we ate this time. Let’s just say that we added a couple of slices of bun and cheese and made up our minds not to wear a bikini for the rest of the Easter weekend!

In between mouthfuls, and as if on cue, the glorious day is further enhanced by gentle wafts of breeze.

The picturesque deep blue of the sea disturbed only by the aggressive thrusts of jet skis makes this “paradise. regained.” As we sip mimosas and embrace the moment, the musicians seem to have read our minds for we are jolted back to the moment, thanks to Byard Lancaster’s soul-stirring rendition of Amazing Grace and yes, there was Somewhere over the Rainbow.

The eagerly anticipated hat competition follows, allowing the bevy of beautiful women an opportunity to show off their Easter bonnets.

Dessert is taken in stages. With the straight off-the-coal cornmeal pudding tried first, followed by key lime pie, chocolate mousse and fruits. There would be no need to go any further save to indulge in another slice of the key lime pie and to drink more water.

All good things, we’re told, must come to an end, and bad things for that matter. Not however, at Royal Plantation! For with brunch officially over, some guests sidle on over to the bar while others choose those gorgeous overstuffed chintz sofas to continue the Easter lyme. The excellent service continues (the staff clearly understands that a comfortable setting encourages more spend).

Dare we admit that the tea service catches us still reclined and that we actually do tea?

But we digress, having made a mental note to return to the place once favoured by Prince Ernst of Hanover, and Pierre Trudeau, but now the firm choice of the global fabulocracy.

Brunch happens on the last Sunday of each month and costs US$57.50 (per person) inclusive of taxes.

For reservations call 974-5601