It’s a great day to be in Black River, St Elizabeth. The usual oppressive heat is absent, it is instead an overcast day (almost chilly) with a weak sun fighting hard for its turf. We’re late for lunch, having made several stops in Manchester, but are happy to finally arrive at Riverside Dock.

There are seats inside, but with the breeze finally claiming victory over the now subdued sunrays, we opt for lunch on the deck. Why not enjoy the many passing boats filled with visitors cruising along the 39 miles of Jamaica’s longest river, aptly called Black River?

There is no blue, not even in the skies. What there is, however, is harmony with nature. Riverside Dock affords the relaxation of a yoga class (I wonder how my mat is at Shakti and then laugh out loud).

My expectations are for an average experience but that soon changes when freshly-cut coconuts with straws are offered by our server Arlene. It’s exactly what we needed to quench our collective thirst. Paying close attention to the menu, I search for anything save seafood. We all opt for entrees, having already had our fill of soup and appetiser en route.

The menu offerings are pretty comprehensive and include crab cakes, jerked wings, conch fritters and grilled kebabs, soups, lobster salads and shrimp Caesar, escoveitch chicken salad and duck salad amongst many, many others.

Our selections: chicken kebab, mango curried shrimp and guava-jerked chicken. The second round of coconut water is much sweeter than the first. Our server advises (second smart move) that the meals are cooked to order and as such will take about 30-45 minutes. We’re fine watching the boats go by, looking out for the crocodile that loves to ‘play to the gallery’. No sighting yet!

We turn to the restaurant’s décor best described as eclectic: a cannon, a couple of large Dutch pots, parrots, calabashes, urns, anchors and tiki lights. This place, we surmise, must offer an extraordinary nocturnal appeal.

We’re jolted back from our reverie by the arrival of Tameka with our meals. The plates are attractive and the servings ample. Festivals are presented in a basket and the creamy mashed potatoes in a separate container. We tuck in. there are no complaints.

The chicken kebabs are juicy, nicely seasoned with garden vegetables that are still crispy. The guava jerked chicken provides just enough sweet and the mango curried shrimp a sensitive interpretation of hot and sweet. We ask Tameka to congratulate the chef and begin to contemplate the wonderful home-made desserts.

This, alas, proves to be the afternoon’s major disappointment. Tameka offers pistachio ice-cream and/or cheesecake. Alas! no ‘just off the coal’ sweet potato pudding. No bread pudding either now baked by rote by a member of the third generation. Tameka shares our pain. Our pain however, has already taken us back to Kingston and to our favourite eatery where we would have been offered myriad sweet plates. “Not even a little rum cake?” We implore.

We look forward to subsequent visits to Riverside Dock. The service is truly exceptional, with both Arlene and Tameka demonstrating full comprehension of customer service. The prices are excellent too. Reckon on a low of $360 for the guava jerked chicken to a high of $1,075 for lobster tails. Vegetarians are not forgotten with menu offerings of stir-fried Caribbean vegetables with jerk tofu or Caribbean vegetable rundown.

The bathrooms are worth a visit too, beautifully maintained with the delightful scent of candles wafting through the air.