DINNER is a leisurely affair at the Round Hill and understandably so, since its habitués are not only well-versed in the art of dining, but they rate congenial conversation and a good book way above that ubiquitous television remote.

And so, after cocktails we made our way up the stone steps to the Georgian Terrace, where tables were set around the balcony to allow guests to enjoy the property’s nocturnal chic.

The Upbeaters Mento Band was on the floor, slowly moving from table to table, allowing patrons to choose which Jamaican song they wanted to hear, ranging from Bob Marley and Jimmy Cliff to Johnny Nash. It was all good fun. The band, we learned, has performed in Austria as well as Japan… all as a result of evenings such as these.

We sipped the house wine, a

2004 Sterzi Pinot Grigio, and perused the menu, ably assisted by maitre d’ Douglas Haughton. What to have for dinner became a formidable challenge, but we’d heard so much about Round Hill’s shrimp rundown that we decided to try that with a Caesar salad. My dinner companion opted for a more eclectic approach – tiger shrimps and vegetable tempura, seafood chowder and

the herb-crusted certified Angus beef tenderloin.

The Georgian Terrace, partially framed by two pruned yet imposing almond trees, became an intimate, relaxing dining endroit. We looked out towards the glistening Caribbean Sea and identified the property’s new infinity pool as well as the pristine white walls of Ralph Lauren’s cottage. Our reverie was disturbed with the arrival of an elegant-looking Caesar salad and a basket laden with tiger shrimps and vegetable tempura.

The Round can truly lay claim to having mastered the art of preparing not only an elegant Caesar salad – with its strategic positioning of the romaine lettuce – but one that sticks as close as possible to all six of the ingredients used back in 1924 by its inventor Caesar Cardini: romaine lettuce, garlic, olive oil, croutons, parmesan cheese and Worcestershire sauce.

SunDay Cuisine loved the ‘palate kick’ of the few anchovies – the mere beginnings of a truly spectacular meal.

The shrimp rundown followed with its delicate coconut reduction seasoned ever so carefully, suggesting influences from a typical Jamaican coal pot as well as the subtle coconut influence of Thai cuisine. My dinner companion was having a good dining experience too with his seafood chowder and herb-crusted, certified Angus beef tenderloin, which looked so tempting that my fork found its way across to the plate.

After a suitable pause and another glass of Pinot Grigio, it was now time to contemplate dessert, but not before seeking out the chef.

Dessert came in the form of home-made bread pudding crowned with fresh cream and ice cream. My key lime pie, with its drizzles of strawberry coulis, was the perfect sweet plate to luxuriate over in between sips of Blue Mountain coffee.

We lingered long after the last delicious forkful of dessert, basking in the evening’s warmth and sharing the culinary journey of Jamaican executive chef Trevor Duncan. Duncan’s last kitchen was that of the world-acclaimed Sandy Lane Hotel in Barbados. See this week’s Thursday Food pages for more on this highly talented chef.