Gastronomic Week
IT becomes an exercise in futility trying to resist taking more and more of the celebrated Spanish ham that requires a slight tug between the teeth before it delivers ever so cleverly an explosion of salt and herbs – a taste so perfect, a texture so smooth, and all so addictive.
Master carver Florencio Sanchidrian is not oblivious to the show-stopping effect both he and his ham are creating. “Yes, it’s important that I feel like a bullfighter when cutting the ham,” he shares. “The process must be done slowly, with a horizontal knife.”
There’s more, the ham must be kept at a minimum temperature of 22ºC and carved before de-boning to prevent it losing the aroma. Each strip must be long and must have more (meat) than bacon. “It’s a special dish,” he continues, “which penetrates the senses. it’s not merely food to fill the mouth. but to be savoured.” Little wonder that Florencio Sanchidrian is sought after by Royalty like the Duchess of Alba, Pope Benedict XV1 and Hollywood A-listers like Melanie Griffith, Sylvester Stallone, Al Pacino and Richard Gere.
Dragging ourselves away to dinner proves a challenge, even with Ann Marie Wyss’ stark white setting accented with elegant, long chandeliers that literally sparkle, and tables with names like Discovery Bay that speak to Spanish settlements, set with an opulence that screams old world. Executive chef Francisco Javier Nunez Delgado Leon, who has worked in several top-flight restaurants (interpret this to mean 3-Michelin star establishments) appears unperturbed by the ‘bullfighters’ rave reviews.
Why should he, when his creamy rice with boletus (a highly regarded, edible mushroom) not only raises the bar, but delivers a subtle al dente warning that he loves a challenge.
Castilla y Leon, the biggest region in Europe, is known for its old university town of Salamanca, its beautiful tourism routes like Tordesillas, Avila, Leon, Burgos and Zamora, as well as its excellent food and wine that chefs like Delgado are keen to promote around the world.
It’s working this evening in Kingston, Jamaica, as we accustom our palates to the crunchy vegetables with Valdeon cheese sauce and the Castillian soup, a wonderful mélange of onions, ham, sausage, white bread, garlic, potatoes, roasted peppers, egg yolks and parsley.
The portions are tapas-inspired and therefore, small enough to allow diners not to be overwhelmed but able to marvel and scrutinise each course. The wait staff are absolute pros and so conversation is afforded in between courses thus allowing us a chance to analyse the flavour. egg lovers relish the sunny-side float atop the Castillian soup, others savour the breakfast appeal of bits of ham and bread. The lobster with Sahagun leeks and pine nuts drizzled with olive oil and vinegar gets rave reviews, as does the tenderloin of beef.
The wines introduced with each course vary from the crisp, light, fruity notes of White Rueda, Verdejo, Palacio de Menade 2004 and the Red, Ribera del Duero, Vina Cabrejas, Crianza 2000 to the rich, mysteriously intriguing ‘sweet’ appeal of Red, Castilla y Leon, Abadia Retuerta, Special Selection, 2000 and Red, Ribera del Duero, Valduero, Reserve 1998.
Dessert comes twice and more than satisfies sweet-plate lovers. Our first treat is a caramel flan, a brilliant execution of different flavours – citrus, mint and cocoa sherbet. The second, a warm cheese cake with red fruit sherbet again teases the palates with a seduction of sweet and sour notes.
As dinner comes to a formidable end, we’re all reminded that the kitchen remains the one place where all cultures meet. As the Spanish ambassador speaks to the Spanish-Jamaican Foundation, dedicated to fulfilling the social corporate commitment of the Spanish companies in Jamaica. and the sponsorship of projects related to education, social activities and community development, it seems as if there’ll be lots more carving of ham.