WITH parties galore and festive fare in abundance, dinner at even a much-touted restaurant seems nothing to get too excited about. When the name Houseboat Grill is thrown out however, we figure great!

It’s a restaurant that has been getting mixed reviews and one we’ve been ‘meaning to’ for some time… By the end of the evening with blankets around our shoulders to ward off the Christmas breeze and sipping Irish Coffee with Jameson whisky and whipped cream, we are ready to go below deck.

Houseboat Grill is, as the name suggests, a house on a boat. To get to Houseboat patrons enjoy a two minute (perhaps not even that long) ride across a moat and a bell sounds to alert those already on board that someone else is about to join (them) for dinner. It’s a touch that many will find a charming dining experience. Once on board we head to the cosy bar on the lower deck where quite a few diners are already in place sipping the ‘usual’.

The décor is basic with lots of wooden panels and the bits of hanging tinsel are in fact pretty cheesy. That aside, the restaurant has found favour with royalty (Sara Ferguson) and the late much-loved actor Steve McQueen (Bonny & Clyde) stayed on the boat during the filming of the movie Papillon. The boat was used as a green room/lounge for artistes like The B52’s, Aretha Franklin, Clash, The Beach Boys, Grateful Dead and Sting who performed at The Jamaica World Music Festival (November 1982).

The Houseboat Grill was run as The Houseboat Fondue Restaurant until early 2001 when current owners Scott Stanley and Richard Nurse took possession of the property. Our server this evening is Ewan Heath who, with his ready smile and charming personality, takes us through the menu.

We decide on the roasted garlic Caesar Salad with chili garlic croutons as well as a hearty beef and black bean chili soup to start and for entrée Grilled Loin of Atlantic Swordfish with Tomato Caper Sauce Provencal, Balsamic Reduction, Parmesan Polenta and Grilled Green Beans, Pan Seared Jumbo Tiger Shrimp with Coconut Curry Sauce, Wild Rice Pilaf and Sautéed Julienne Vegetables and freshly caught lobster (The Houseboat Grill has its own lobster pots) split and grilled with brandy, white wine, garlic butter and a Caesar salad.

Now on our second glass of Merlot as well as other beverages, we move from the lower deck to the top (ignore the increased motion) which also boasts its own bar and an intimacy that makes it difficult to relocate to the table with the view. Heath fully understands our predicament and moves our setting to the bar.

The Caesar salad is excellent as is the hearty beef and black bean chili soup that we all tuck into shamelessly. Would the entrées measure up? Indeed they do from the ample serving of fresh lobster, to the delicious Loin of Atlantic Swordfish with just enough tomato caper sauce and Balsamic Reduction to complement the catch of the day.

The polenta is easily the evening’s winner – solid, subtly seasoned and able to stand on its own. The Pan Seared Jumbo Tiger Shrimp with coconut curry sauce and accompaniments of wild rice pilaf and sautéed julienne vegetables gets the thumbs up from the most critical member of our group who, by the way, is quite miffed that there’s nothing to fault. Laughter, more glasses of wine distract (albeit momentarily) from dessert offerings that crave notice for how does one feign indifference to post-dinner sweet offerings like warm banana cake with crème Anglaise, lemon-scented crème brûlée or Almond amaretto cheesecake with Chantilly cream?

There’s no need to… we conclude and order them all, sharing in the sweet comfort of each other’s sweet plate.

The HouseBoat Grill anchored off-shore in the Bogue Lagoons, Freeport Montego Bay is a dining experience that scores big on intimacy, excellent service and good food. The prices are local friendly (locals by the way definitely play a major and fully supportive role).

Dinner for three with drinks was $9,109.13 (inclusive of GCT) In the tourist resort of Montego Bay that is truly priceless.

Appetisers range from $325 to $625, Entrées $995 to $1,295 with lobster at $2,700.

For Reservations call: 979-8845