The art of bubbly
FRENCH novelist from the early 19th century, Honoré de Balzac said that “Great love affairs start with Champagne and end with tisane.” However, it seems that for those who attended the DeVine Wine Club meeting, Tuesday night at Eden Gardens, that love affair may be with the magical drink itself.
Under the instruction of Chris Reckord, wine consultant with DeVine Wine Services, a group of budding connoisseurs gathered to learn about Champagne. And with Laurent Perrier, vintage Taittinger, vintage Veuve Clicquot and Krug on the menu, it looked like it would be an interesting evening – educationally of course.
For wine connoisseurs fluent in the language of vin, understanding and appreciating Champagne is a whole new language. To the body, grape variety and fullness of wine, now add terminology such as cuvée, muzzle, and Méthode champenoise. Not only is it a whole new language but it offers up a whole new drinking experience. While enjoying wine touches the senses of smell, sight, and taste, Champagne drinking also includes touch as you feel the subtle sensation of the effervescence bursting on your tongue.
Its history – like the process by which it is made – is long and intricate, built upon hundreds of years of scandal, controversy and a notoriety that aligns it with kings, princes, nobility, great intellectuals and academics. And while it is not necessary to know these intricacies to understand and appreciate Champagne, there are some myths that should be dispelled to truthfully enjoy it.
First, the difference between Champagne and sparkling wine? For Champagne to be a Champagne, it must come from the Champagne region in the north of France. Champagne is only made from a selection of three grapes, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir grown in this area.
On the ladder of greatness, a non-vintage or multi-vintage is the first level, followed by vintage and topped by a cuvée or grand cuvée. A vintage year or cuvee is only declared in a year where every element of the champagne-making process is optimum, from the soil and weather conditions, to the grapes themselves.
When opening a bottle (contrary to popular belief), avoid a big pop – this will release too much of the effervescence. Instead, aim for a gentle hiss. The best way to achieve this is undo the wire cage, hold the cork in your hand and twist the bottle. The pressure will push the cork out on its own. Other “rules” in drinking Champagne are to ensure that it is drunk very cold, and in the correct glass.
Ultimately, forget the principle that Champagne is just for celebrating. It is the perfect accompaniment to any meal, so pick one, pop the cork (not too loudly) and enjoy.