It took a British film crew, many years ago, to unearth (for me at least) the multi-talented duo of Shireen Aga and Barbara Walker, owners of Mocking Bird Hill Hotel. Back then they were already championing all things ‘green’; growing, cooking and teasing the palates of guests at Restaurant Mille Feuilles. The cosy 10 rooms got rave reviews too.

Word remains on the international scene that Portland is Jamaica’s jerk centre. The discerning set, however, wants more and has been making the trek to Mille Feuilles in search of a great dining experience and more recently to test the skills of the property’s 23-year-old German chef, Elmar Rensch, formerly of The Ritz Carlton, Berlin.

To hear of how Rensch, who was holidaying in Negril, survived hurricane Ivan is one thing; to spread his straight-from-the-oven peanut triangles, pepper bread and cheese and corn muffins with home-made garlic herb butter with thyme-or garlic-flavoured olive oil, and bite into his cucumber with ham tartare followed by a spoonful of the smoothest, ever-so-carefully seasoned yellow yam soup, so as not to reduce the sudden ‘kick’ afforded by a spoonful of smoked marlin, is to sit up and take note of a man who wants to “experiment with all that’s available”.

He certainly gets the jerk-spiced pesto shrimps on mango salsa to excite our palates. First, there’s a slow release of heat and then the cool, sweet tenacity of the mango salsa. “I love your mangoes, and remain as fascinated with the dried coconut as when my father found one in a market in Germany and took it home,” he explains. “It took us hours to figure out how to open it.I laugh now as I open them in minutes.”

We share his laughter as garden salads are placed à table and drizzled with sesame seed and potato dressing, again made from scratch. There’s nothing regular here, not even the salad dressing. “We conduct cooking classes with our guests,” shares Rensch, “they are eager to know how to prepare the foods that they are eating and of course what goes into each dish.” No surprise here, as we try our best to find fault with the spicy rubbed tuna on papaya and wild orange glaze.

The tuna is a bit on the dry/tough side, but in fairness to the chef we had in fact allowed it to sit perhaps a tad too long as we made our way through the excellent callaloo-filled ravioli with pimento cream sauce. The mustard and jerk marinated roast lamb as well as farce on crispy ackee with sweet pepper sauce again speak to the fact that this is a chef hell-bent on pushing the culinary possibilities. Not all might find favour, but surely that’s why today’s chefs (the smart ones) are truly visible and for the most part receptive to their clients’ needs.

Dessert becomes a spectacular display of both artistry and precision with taste and not just sweet in triumphant accord. Imagine coconut rum parfait on poached pineapple, yoghurt and mango mousse tart and a much too comforting peanut icecream with caramel sauce. Seems we need to spread the word that there really is no need to trek everything from Kingston. Portie is awake from its long slumber, at least at Mille Feuilles.

Go in search of your own culinary journey and share your experience. Be warned that lunch might just segue into tea and then dinner, so do check the occupancy when making reservations. The prices will leave you still smiling. Pre-dinner tidbits, plus that wonderful selection of freshly baked breads and flavoured butters and home-made after-dinner sweets are on the house.

How to get there.

Until the highway is complete the St Thomas Road from Kingston makes for a less tortuous drive. Drive past Blue Lagoon, San San and Frenchman’s Cove towards the town of Port Antonio. You will then pass through the village of Drapers. As you leave the village, the hotel is signposted on your right and again at the actual turn-off, which is about 100m further down. Take the first sharp left turn uphill.

From Stony Hill pass the Trident Villas and Hotels on your left, take the first right after the Jamaica Palace Hotel

Mocking Bird Hill

Port Antonio

Telephone: 993 7134/993 7267