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Lifestyle, Local Food, Thursday Food
July 14, 2010

And the winner is…

As the excitement mounts for the Jamaica Observer Food Awards next Thursday, July 22, 2010 at Devon House, we turn our focus on the seven Chef of the Year nominees. This week, each of them will share two highlights of their culinary experiences with us.

Chef Ravi Anne – Sugar Mill Restaurant

What is the most interesting dish that you have ever eaten, and where did you have it?

The most interesting dish I have ever had is from Mexican cuisine and it’s “Mexican Homemade Quesadillas stuffed with Huitlacoche.”

Huitlacoche: Huitlacoche (also spelled cuitlacoche) is a corn fungus or ‘corn smut’ that grows naturally on ears of corn, the botanical name is (Ustilago maydis). The fungus is harvested and treated as a delicacy. The earthy and somewhat smoky fungus is used to flavour quesadillas, tamales, soups and other specialty dishes.

What is the most interesting or unusual dish that you have ever created?

The most interesting dish I have ever created is “Chicken Roulade Aged Appleton Braised Oxtail filling with char-grilled Shrimp marinated in sorrel, bacon and passion fruit sautéed home-grown spinach served with ugly fruit glaze.”

Chef Marcia Farquharson – The Twisted Kilt

What is the most interesting dish that you have ever eaten, and where did you have it?

The most interesting dish that I’ve ever eaten is Tuna Tartare. I had it at the Wequasette Inn in the 28th Atlantic Restaurant in Massachusetts, USA.

What is the most interesting or unusual dish that you have ever created?

The most interesting dish that I’ve ever created is Seared Crab cake; it sits on mango, coconut, blueberry, risotto and tempura haricot verts accompanied with a citrus-herb butter sauce.

Chef Brian Lumley – The Embassy of France

What is the most interesting dish that you have ever eaten, and where did you have it?

The most interesting thing I’ve eaten is Sautéed Baby Octopus on my first visit to a Chinese restaurant in New Jersey when I was 17.

What is the most interesting or unusual dish that you have ever created?

A Green Banana Risotto with Saltfish and Avocado.

Chef Kevin Broderick – Rockhouse Hotel

What is the most interesting dish that you have ever eaten, and where did you have it?

My favourite place to eat is the Rituals Coffee House in Montego Bay; I love their Chicken Alfredo with Penne Pasta. I stand at the counter watching as Simone sautés those tender strips of chicken breast on a flat grill, then when the chicken is half-cooked, she starts the sauce by adding heavy cream, fresh garlic, egg yolks and freshly grated parmesan cheese. Then she tosses some al dente (cooked firm, not soft) penne pasta in and tops it with chopped basil, followed by a refreshing drink of lemonade. There is something quite interesting about watching your food being prepared before you and using the freshest ingredients.

What is the most interesting or unusual dish that you have ever created?

It gives me such a warm feeling to introduce this divine dish to you and I take great care preparing it, as every time I do it gives me a nostalgic feeling. It’s called “Old Time Sinting”– a dish that is affectionately inspired by my great grandmother “mum” who had a strong belief in ‘living off the land’. She would take me to the river behind our house where she would catch crayfish by bending and gently placing her hand underneath small rocks.

After an hour or so, we would make our way back through the farmland with laden coconut trees where we would stop for a rest and shade, and she would pick up two of the dried coconuts and give them to me to carry to the house. Back home we would cut the coconuts and drink the water, then the flesh would be removed from the shell, grated and squeezed with the milk and the flakes separated.

In a small Dutch pot (this is where the real flavour is) on a wood fire she would heat a couple tablespoons of the coconut oil, then add some chopped onion, escallion, thyme, garlic and pimento seeds. After sautéing that for a couple seconds, she would pour in the prepared crayfish, a couple pieces of fish, some coconut milk and peeled veggies, then when it was half-cooked she would add a scotch bonnet pepper to give it a little kick.

She always served it in a calabash. My modern interpretation of this classical dish is done similarly with a few minor adjustments. It is still cooked in a Dutch pot, but I now serve it in a hand-sculpted coconut bowl with fried sweet potato, a small ramekin of rice and peas or white rice accompanied with a spiral of fried ripe plantain.

This dish is a treasure to me because it brings back golden memories and I don’t want to ever forget mum or where my inspiration comes from. God rest her soul.

Chef Oji Jaja – Jaja’s Catering Services

What is the most interesting dish that you have ever eaten, and where did you have it?

Some of the most interesting dishes I have ever experienced were while working at the Ritz Carlton Resorts of Naples. However, the most interesting flavour was fresh Sea Urchin. There is absolutely nothing like it — metallic in taste and very clean on the palate.

What is the most interesting or unusual dish that you have ever created?

The most interesting dish I have created is Pan-seared Salmon on Fresh Lettuce, served with Mango Cucumber slaw and drizzled with roasted bell pepper and scotch bonnet coulis. It is interesting because of the blend of Caribbean and international flavours. It is a nice, clean, healthy and attractive dish.

Chef Marvin Robinson – Round Hill Hotel

What is the most interesting dish that you have ever had to eat, and where did you have it?

The most interesting dish I have ever had was very simple and playful, it consisted of watermelon cubes drizzled with 25-year-old balsamic vinegar, feta cheese, mint and ‘pop-rocks’, which caused an explosion of flavour in my mouth. I had it in Canada.

What is the most interesting or unusual dish that you have ever created?

The most unusual dish I have ever created was Candy Appleton-cured Bacon Wrapped Snapper Served on a bed of Organic Vegetables and Turmeric Wild Rice Asopao.

Chef Kenrick Stewart – Runaway Bay Heart Hotel

What is the most interesting dish that you have ever had to eat, and where did you have it?

Charred Roasted Elk while on a youth exchange programme in Canada in 1989. The meat was acquired by hunting (I did not kill it) but I gladly joined in the consumption. I possess a very open ‘food mind’ and this has led me to try crocodile, escargot and frogs legs–which are very tasty when cooked with white wine and garlic, but my introduction to these foods took place in my formative years. Ostrich has a similar taste to white meat turkey and has less fat than chicken and game birds. I must confess, if the opportunity presents

itself to sample almost unmentionable foods, I would jump at the chance. I am a strong believer that as chefs, we should always have an open mind and think outside the box. We must also remember that recipes are guides, not shackles. After all, we should see the world as food and be creative with it.

What is the most interesting or unusual dish that you have ever created?

The jury is still out on whether the dish was interesting or unusual, but it did provoke much thought. I am a lover of porridge, a meal I would have any time of the day, which seems quite contrary to the belief that executive chefs are always eating lavishly. Naturally, I experimented with ackee porridge, using cream of wheat as a base. This is subtle and aimed at accentuating the flavours. Although I never totally liked the end result, others thought differently. I guess I have my unknown limits to porridge.

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