As we continue the focus on wardrobe essentials with the shirt, we take a look at trousers. A most basic item, it is critical to get the fit and style right, so we discuss tips on getting the best pair for you.

Tips

1. All shapes: The most basic and essential is the classic trousers. These are overall sleek with a flat front and straight or slightly flared legs. The classic trousers should skim your widest part, so hips are the first consideration in fit. Other areas may be altered.

o Also, with the classic trousers, choose a quality fabric (wool or its blends) when purchasing a ready-to-wear pair or when making your own.

2. Wide hips: wide-leg trousers are great because the volume in the leg creates more balanced looking proportions.

3. Tall: try trousers with a slight flare.

4. Short: try straight-leg styles with creases and wear heels with these. Avoid wide legs and cuffs.

5. Long waist: classic trousers that fit slightly above the waist may work best.

6. Short waist: A flat front with a short rise (below your waist) makes a good fit.

7. Flat derriere: Details at the back, such as pockets and a yoke help accent your shape, especially if close-fitting. Avoid baggy trousers.

Making a pair of trousers is not as hard as one might think. Take the challenge. One tip for the best fit for the rise / crotch depth is to use a pair of pants that you already own that fit well, or you could a pattern.

Steps:

1. Cut:

a. Trouser length – front (2) and back (2) taking care to double-check the measurements for both the hip and leg circumference.

b. Waistband

c. Loops (optional)

d. Pockets (optional)

2. Join the front and back of each trouser leg at the inner seams

3. Join the left and right legs at the crotch. If the zipper will be placed at the front, start at the base of the zipper area. If you’ll be placing the zipper to the side, sew from front waist to back waist.

4. Join the outer seams of both legs

5. Insert zipper

6. Attach waistband

7. Hem

Options

Loops: these may be attached before attaching the waistband.

Pockets: sew pockets together, then attach before joining the waistband and trousers.