Circa 1960, King Street, downtown Kingston

In the decade that the bikini invaded the fashion scene, Jacqueline Kennedy made the pillbox hat a must-have, tie-dye defined the hippie cultural movement, and bell-bottom jeans were the spot-on trend, a retail upstart in Jamaica named Ammar’s prepared to make an inauspicious debut on the happening city street in downtown Kingston. The newbie store’s more high-end competitors, English Shop and Nathan’s, were far more favourably regarded as the ‘It’ places to shop and be seen, and it was they, not Ammar’s, who ruled the roost of clothing stores along King Street, which was the Jamaican equivalent of Beverly Hills’ Rodeo Drive of its time.

In the ensuing 50 years Ammar’s has evolved and thrived, and has expanded its brand to include three stores. Of interest is the fact that its initial competitors and many others have long since fallen by the wayside or completely disappeared from the contemporary fashion landscape. An introspective Michael Ammar Snr, Chief Executive Officer of the brand that went from relative obscurity to a national symbol of style, recalls the traditionally more well-mannered era of the ’60s: “People would get dressed up to go shopping, and as the new kid on the block at the time, Ammar’s was the underdog.”

The target market being catered to then, the seasoned retail icon shares, had “a particular focus on women and by extension, their significant others and their children.”

He recalls that the distinctive fashion notes of the time were defined by the attire worn by women, who would be well-dressed for their shopping excursions in hats, stockings, and high heels. “But NEVER pants,” he says, pointing out that it was not sartorially acceptable then for a lady to be seen out in attire that remotely resembled slacks. He continues: “The chain has developed from initially being 70 to 80 per cent in the fabric business to being a full-fledged department store.” While name brands are now in vogue among today’s shoppers, for a huge stretch from the 1960s to the 1980s, he adds that Ammar’s sold mainly locally manufactured products and, like all other department stores, they could not import ready-made material except from Caricom countries until the 1990s with the explosion of the import market. Popular local and regional brands of the initial two decades included Ivy Ralph, Tina Togs, Wild Oats, Ferlucci and Jordache. He adds that from its earlier years, Ammar’s was also known for carrying the lingerie brand Exquisite Form, which was known for its girdles and brassieres.

One of the chain’s longest-serving employees, Norma Spence, trekking down memory lane as well, shares with SO that as a new worker in the 1970s, she distinctly recalls the senior Ammar “telling me I looked as if I couldn’t manage, so he put me in the fabric department”.

Three weeks later, Spence says, not only did he return to retract his statement, but also to compliment her efficiency, and through her extended time with the company she has moved up the ranks from clerk to supervisor to acting manager of the King Street store.

Detailing the noticeable differences between the 1970s and today, she observes that the Ammar’s of that era gradually increased its square footage as the brand took over space previously occupied by Hanna’s. Also, she says, a greater number of customers patronised the store back then primarily based on two factors: fewer shopping choices and the not-yet-popular presence of discount wholesale stores, now so common on the downtown landscape and around the country.

As for the profile of the average Ammar’s shopper of 2010, the downtown store manager reveals, they run the gamut but include trendy 20- and 30-somethings as well as staff from banks, courts, law offices, and other businesses.

A six-time consecutive Style Awards winner for Best Retailer, the Ammar’s brand is currently in celebratory mode for its golden anniversary. The little retail store from 1960 has grown beyond its flagship downtown store to establish itself in modernised fashion districts in the Village and Mall Plazas along Constant Spring Road as well as the Sovereign Centre in Liguanea.

The retail giant’s second-in-command, Michael Ammar Jr, tells SO that revolutionary changes have taken place over five decades, as the stores are “bigger and more elaborate” when viewed against the formative years. He says very strategic and conscientious efforts have been made: “We’ve gone more full-service to create the Ammar’s shopping experience.”

Factored into this experience are: “ambiance of a certain quality, attentive staff, constantly updating our merchandise, a no-questions-asked return policy [once the item is in good condition], and trying to create an atmosphere for the shopper that is more exclusive to their tastes.”

The Ammar’s aesthetic is in constant revamp mode. Visual presentation of apparel and products have been fine-tuned, contemporary fixtures have been added, and keener thought is consistently given to updating the offerings. However, topping the list of modifications made is the recent shuttering of the discount line of Ammar’s sister chain, Amart and replacing it with the Next Generation, the fashion/lifestyle outlets specifically geared towards the under-18-year-old clientele. At King Street, construction is nearing completion for a stand-alone Next Generation location, which, like other in-store Generation locations, will be fully housed with a range of merchandise from baby clothing and furniture, footwear, year-round school gear, and casual wear particularly for the child-to-teenager demographic. The Ammar’s-branded ‘Yeh Man’ Island Apparel fashion line will also feature prominently alongside recognisable brands at these outlets.

Ammar Jr explains that while several of their major retail competitors no longer exist, Ammar’s must now vie with a proliferation of new players in the consumer market. Irrespective of increased competition, he is proud to declare the Village/Mall Plaza store as the largest retail clothing store of its kind in the island, spanning some 30,000 square feet. Additionally, he says, the three stores pride themselves on outfitting their shelves and racks with a myriad of both stylish and practical fashion selections.

Ammar Jr reveals to SO that as the yuletide season approaches, coupled with a new year beckoning mere weeks away, all Ammar’s locations will be trendier in their look. In-store stock, he assures, “is being upgraded with quality merchandise” to address the anticipated streams of shoppers on the hunt to update their wardrobe for seasonal outings and parties. Brands housed include Oleg Cassini, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Dockers, Bugle Boy, US Polo, Van Heusen, Reebok, Rene Rafe, Cozzi, among others.

In light of the recessionary climate in which persons are more frugal in their spending, he says that although Ammar’s will continue to provide classic styling, “We are also concentrating a lot on clothing that will be longer-lasting for the retailer.”

Speaking to the vision for the next 50 years when Ammar’s will be prepping for a centennial celebration: “We’re committed to continue being new and different, and never willing to admit we’re good enough because if we do, we can never raise the bar higher.”

“We want to remain committed to providing a full-service model of retailing, and ensure that our customers come in and see they can rely on our good merchandise and service.”

On the horizon, Ammar Jr says, Montego Bay is being seriously considered as a new setting for the retail chain and locations have already been scouted, with a possible space identified. So, Jamaicans out west should brace themselves to welcome Ammar’s to the second city very soon.