Growing up, I used to hear my maternal grandmother speak about her father — my great-grandfather — and his kitchen with the “kreng kreng”. My great-grandfather, who spoke fluent French and fought in World War 1, was a great cook according to family legend. Is it any surprise that I ended up living in France for a period? After all, it’s in my blood. He also had a “thing” for smoked meats. A “kreng kreng”, a device for smoking meat, used to be a staple in Jamaican country kitchens. I’ve been trying to find one to add to my collection of traditional kitchenware. Many of my generation do not know what one looks like, which is a pity, as it forms a part of our culinary heritage.

In days gone by, most rural kitchens were separate from the main house. Attached to the “kreng kreng”, which was hung above a fire, would be a limb of pimento wood with leaves. The meat would also be attached and slow-smoked. This had a twofold effect… it preserved the meat (those were the days before refrigeration), and it added a certain flavour. Today, this fondness for smoked meats persists, even though the majority of us no longer do our own smoking. However, we are fortunate to have them conveniently prepared by specialty companies. Smoking/curing meats is not difficult if you have the right wood chips and know the difference between hot or cold smoking techniques, but that is a whole other article.

There are a few segments of our pork-loving society who for religious reasons do not eat this white meat. Locally, Seventh Day Adventists and Rastafarians are most known for this dietary rule, but also Jews and Muslims. On the market for a few years now there is chicken “ham” as a substitute and it’s prepared similarly, though not quite the same.

Christmas hams have been enjoyed by many cultures like the Scandinavians and Filipinos through the centuries. Our tradition of eating ham came from the British. Back then, whole suckling pigs were enjoyed by royalty and the wealthy, who threw lavish feasts. The ham which we enjoy in Jamaica today comes from the rear of a mature pig which is the most popular form, or sometimes shoulder ham is available.

Today’s recipe features the traditional method of making a Christmas ham. I have also included two alternative glazes for those who want a change or to experiment with other flavours. I love eating leftover ham with an assortment of cheeses and chutney; the combination of salt and sweet is so tantalising on the tongue, or simply with salad. The leftovers are great in sandwiches too, or cut up and mixed into an omelette.

I don’t know about you, but the smell of my mother’s ham baking on Christmas Eve gets me incredibly excited about the feast that is to come. It is also one of those meats that bring people together. No wonder it has been a beloved staple on our Christmas tables for generations.

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Bon Appétit!