KINGSTON ROCKS!!!
Where the mystic is always around
You enjoy the sights and sounds
So high you don’t want to be down
This is where I can be found
And it’s a magic city, magic lights
Magical moments, magical heights
— Magic City, Buju Banton
Speakers blaring, horns honking and drama at every turn, Kingston possesses the kind of in-the-streets appeal that has, for years, positioned it as the New York City of the Caribbean. And one need look no further than the myriad of reggae tracks that have eulogised Jamaica’s capital for its rough-and-tumble but wonderful landscape… unlike the ultra-sterile locations of many soulless cities the world over, ours is a study in vivacious colour and an ode to swagger, sex and sincerity. SO brings you all the reasons Kingston rocks!
The Bank of Jamaica
The Bank of Jamaica (BOJ), the island’s central bank, came to prominence in May 1961 when the country needed a primary financial structure. This was particularly crucial at the time as Jamaica was heading towards political independence. Today, BOJ remains the country’s centre of commerce and also features a well-equipped ‘money museum’ where much of the country’s financial history can be accessed.
Carib 5 Cinema
The larger-than-life Craven A box that spun atop Carib 5 Cinema back in the day was what many Jamaicans associated with going to the movies. However, following its destruction by fire in the 1990s, Carib 5 Cinema came back bigger and better than ever! Now boasting five cinemas and state-of-the-art viewing technology, it’s the go-to place to catch the latest flick showing in American cinemas.
Coronation Market
Arguably Jamaica’s most famous market space, Coronation Market — affectionately called ‘Curry’ — in downtown Kingston provides vendors from around the country with the opportunity to sell their wares. The market, which is open from as early as 4:00 am, is known for its colourful characters, highly competitive prices on everything — from produce to meats, fresh fruits, vegetables — and oh those daredevil cart men. Currently being redesigned by the Government with assistance from Digicel, ‘Curry’ is an integral part of the city’s cultural offerings.
Devon House
Devon House is indisputably one of Kingston’s most popular locations. The beautiful mid-seventeenth century mansion is a national heritage site, and was the home of Jamaica’s first black millionaire, George Stiebel. Today, Devon House continues to represent Jamaica’s rich history. The location boasts several local shops, and is also the venue for various events.
Devon House I-Scream
Lines snaking across the verdant lawns are a fixture on Sundays at Devon House, a testament to the popularity of I-Scream (ice cream). With its selection of delicious old favourites and authentic Jamaican flavours like Devon Stout and Tamarind, it’s easy to see why Devon House I-Scream comes to mind first for many at the slightest mention of the place.
Downtown’s Waterfront
Though its address might deter some from going, the waterfront is a picturesque sight to behold. Hailed as one of the world’s largest natural harbours, there’s much to see lounging on the grassy knolls dotting the sea’s concreted edges. Seafaring vessels, both massive and miniature, can be seen traversing the harbour’s expanse frequently; aircraft landing or taking off at the Norman Manley International Airport in the distance; and birds dipping into the water, while the gentle ocean breeze caresses in the shade of the tall palm trees.
Hope Botanical Gardens
The Hope Botanical Gardens, also known as the Royal Botanical Gardens, has been a national attraction for many years. The sinfully tranquil locale, which features several species of tropical flowers and even a zoo, is the source of many a fond childhood memory. It, too, is one of Kingston’s listed heritage sites.
Half-Way-Tree Clock
For most people, the clock is the ultimate landmark of Half-Way-Tree, and is the hub of activity in Kingston. The clock is also a national heritage site and is thought to be a marker for the exact divide of the city’s two worlds, or, in other words, ‘where uptown meets downtown’.
Half-Way-Tree Transport Centre
The recently constructed Half-Way-Tree Transport Centre is a stone’s throw from the famous clock. Though many people thought it unnecessary in the beginning, there is no doubt that it is indeed a welcome addition to the area. And its ultra-modern façade set against the dated backdrop of older buildings is certainly a sight to see in the metropolis.
Holy Trinity Cathedral
The days of its bronze dome glistening in the sun may be gone, but the Holy Trinity Cathedral still holds a dear place in our hearts. State funerals and visits from the Pope and other dignitaries have put this magnificent structure solidly on the map of Kingston; more so since its current restoration has revealed the beautiful frescos of its original design.
Hub caps at Barbican Square
As you make your way around the Barbican ’roundabout’, you’ll come across a selection of shiny hub caps, rims and even tyres for every car model. We don’t know how they were acquired, and we’re certainly not suggesting you buy them, but we reckon the peddlers have had a consistent stream of customers. After all, they haven’t moved in over 10 years.
Institute of Jamaica/ National Gallery
The Institute, located on East Street in downtown Kingston, is a landmark structure in the city having been established in 1879. It is a veritable treasure trove of science, historical records, artifacts, tomes, and so much more for seekers of the country’s past. The Institute also has oversight responsibility for the National Gallery a few streets across on Ocean Boulevard which is a viscerally exciting space that showcases the evolution of Jamaican art.
King Street Pet Vendors
A staple of downtown Kingston’s King Street, the pet vendors never fail to pique the curiosity of young children accompanying their parents as they shop along the busy roadway. Located just below the Supreme Court, one can purchase turtles, birds and fish along with an aquarium.
Kingston Wharves
Two words: “BARREL COME!”
Lime Cay and Maiden Cay
Kingston’s beach savvy often frolicked along the shores of Lime Cay before its closure. Now Maiden Cay, with its pure white sand, is the preferred location for a stylish beach bash. In fact, people spend many a Sunday afternoon watching the large canoes from Y-Knot, boats from Morgan’s Harbour, and privately owned speedboats and yachts heading there.
Little Theatre
From Pantomime to Little People, Kingstonians have many memories of the stage at the Little Theatre on Tom Redcam Drive. Those in the city have watched the likes of Father HoLung and Friends, the National Dance Theatre Company and L’Acadco, among others from those familiar red seats.
Manor Park Art Scene
Though some of us may not want to admit it, we look forward to seeing artists Tamar and Tobean at the bottom of Olivier Road, where they display their work on the fence of the Constant Spring Golf Course in hope that a passer-by will show interest and perhaps make a purchase.
Moby Dick
Clinton and Morlyn McBean’s popular downtown eatery is known to have the best curry and roti in town. With 26 years of rave reviews the traffic definitely hasn’t slowed at Moby Dick — one of 10 Jamaica Observer Food Awards longevity recipients.
Murals
Creative and colourful murals and artwork decorate several walls across Kingston. Some of our favourites include the colourful graffiti on the corner of Old Hope Road and Half-Way-Tree Road, and the mural by Independence Park, honouring our athletic pioneers.
National Stadium and Arena
Nothing brings a nation together like sports! And in 1998, Jamaica watched as the Reggae Boyz qualified for the World Cup in their final match against Canada at the National Stadium. Ever since, it’s been the meeting place (or ‘Office’ if you will) for sports fans, who gather to watch our athletes excel in not only football, but track and field as well. The Arena, with its latest addition of the indoor sports complex, provides an area where schools and local teams may participate in indoor sports in a comfortable and safe environment.
Norman Manley International Airport
Though we cherish many fond memories of the waving gallery at the old airport — watching the planes take off and land — we’re still quite pleased with the new developments of the Norman Manley International Airport, what with its modern glass-paned check-in area and renovated lounge.
Port Royal
Once referred to as the richest and most wickedest city in the world, this heritage site hosts one of the oldest and largest of Jamaica’s six fortresses. Not only is there much history to be discovered in Port Royal, but it is also home to Gloria’s, a local restaurant that serves arguably the best fish and most delectable seafood in Kingston.
Roots Plays
If it’s one thing you should have on your to-do list when you visit Kingston, it’s to watch a ‘roots play’. You’re guaranteed non-stop entertainment and a production that includes drama, suspense and comedy all wrapped into one!
Scottish Country Dancing
Originated in the 18th century, Scottish Country Dancing (SCD) has quietly been an active social club in Kingston since 1952 when the SCD Society of Jamaica was established. The dance, an amalgation of Scottish barn dancing and French ballroom dancing, sees groups of mixed couples tracing progressive patterns to set choreography. Scottish dance clubs can be found in far-flung countries as Qatar, Japan and Africa. If you’re curious or simply want to try a new kind of dancing, the Jamaican chapter, which has a membership of some 20 persons, meets every Tuesday evening at the Liguanea Club.
South Avenue Craft
While waiting in traffic on South Avenue, one can’t help but notice the fine handicraft on display — wicker baskets and furniture, mats, beaded curtains and paintings along this busy Kingston street, where craftsmen Bobo, Gabriel and Daniel have all set up shop.
St Andrew Parish Church
Its red brick structure is as distinctive as is its classic European architecture magnificent. But did you know that St Andrew Parish Church, situated on Hagley Park Road, is one of the oldest churches in Jamaica? The actual structure was completed in 1700. The building was extensively renovated and enlarged in 1879 and since then several additions have been made.
Statues
Negro Aroused, Redemption Song, Bob Marley
Controversy loomed around these works of art, which now serve as important monuments to the city of Kingston, and Jamaica on a whole.
Street Dances
One of Jamaica’s most popular ‘dances’, the internationally renowned Weddy Weddy is not actually held in the streets, but at the Stone Love Headquarters in Half-Way-Tree on a Wednesday night. It has attracted a slew of entertainers and visitors from around the world, with other countries even creating their own version of the celebrated dancehall event.
Streetside Beauty Salons
Downtown Kingston is famous for many things, and is considered a breeding ground for controversial yet highly interesting activities by many. One thing of note is the informal beauty salons (read: sitting on a soda crate or paint can to get your hair and/or nails done along the steetside). This practice is highly popular among inner-city residents and never fails to intrigue persons outside that social landscape. It is said, too, that some of the best hairstyles and nail designs are to be had at these streetside ‘salons’.
The Bob Marley Museum
56 Hope Road is perhaps one of Kingston’s most popular landmarks — the home of Reggae icon Bob Marley. Tourists and locals alike flock there to visit the museum, eat ital fare at the café and perhaps hope to spot Georgie, who can often be seen riding through on his bicycle.
UWI Aqueduct
The aqueduct remains at the University of the West Indies, Mona Campus, and is the perfect juxtaposition of ancient and modern culture. The centuries-old structure, a part of which borders the equally historic University Chapel and another section of the compound, the Mona School of Business, is reminiscent of the sugar and slavery period. It is now one of the island’s national monuments.
UWI Chapel
Constructed in 1799, this beautifully designed building, which is also a Jamaican heritage site, was originally a sugar factory in Trelawny. It is said that the factory’s bricks, which now form the University Chapel, were transported piece by piece from Trelawny to Mona (where it is now located) for the construction of the church.
Ward Theatre
The Ward, as it’s more lovingly referred to, may no longer be the “it” theatre as popular theatrical venues within the New Kingston belt are now in vogue, but its storied history is undeniable. It was the site of the Pantomime productions that featured Jamaica’s beloved stage performers, Miss Lou and Maas Ran; home to visiting classical acts; and once held pride of place as a must-do venue. While plans have been announced to rehabilitate the building, we hope the days of its former glory return sooner than later.
York Pharmacy
York Pharmacy has been a staple in the Half-Way-Tree area for many years, and serves as a ‘taxi stand’ for a number of commuters in Kingston. It is favoured by many because a) it is open early; b) it closes late every day; and c) it is also open on public holidays.
Spanish Court Hotel
The most stylish address in the city is 1 St Lucia Avenue…don’t believe? Just check out New York Daily News, which lauds Spanish Court as “an ultra modern, boutique-style property that has put Kingston on the map as a tourist destination.”
Forget your grandmother’s wicker furniture with floral cushions and instead think of the chic minimalist lobby complete with zebra mats, teal armchairs and Martin Fluss chandeliers.
Tastee Patty
It’s considered a fast food by some and comfort fare to others, but there’s no disputing the fact that this consistently good Jamaican patty brings people from all socio-economic backgrounds together…for all must stand in that snaking line if they are to bite into that piping hot, meat-filled golden treat. And there’s no patty shop more sucessful than Tastee Cross Roads. Of course, once you’re done and in need of something sweet… there’s that danish with a swirl of red or yellow.
Red Hills Road Pan Chicken
Hot off the grill and served on the streets, the pan chicken on Red Hills Road is simply legendary. Perhaps it’s the cornucopia of seasonings, a splash of the world’s coolest beer or the foil paper in which it is served that makes pan chicken so endearing. But whatever it is, this street food is has remained a hit. And for the more conservative among us who prefer not to partake in these street-side purchases, there is a place that is synonymous with succulent jerk meats for over 20 years — Chelsea Jerk Centre.
Bag Juice
This highly refreshing syrup drink, which is usually frozen and sold in tied plastic bags, has long been a favourite of school children and adults alike. Though the concoction has become a bit more sophisticated in recent times — what with the use of fruit juices and sealed-edge plastic bags — bag juice still remains a Jamaican favourite.
Doughnuts
“Doaney! Doaney! Doaney!” is the call uttered by a slew of persistent doughnut vendors who bombard motorists travelling along Maxfield Avenue. And for commuters heading out of town via public transportation in downtown Kingston, the ‘country bus park’, as it is popularly known, is just the place to find this sweet treat.
Popular Brunch Spots
Sunday afternoons can find Kingstonians lounging and catching up over brunch at the city’s go-to brunch spots. They flock to the likes of Waterloo Road’s Terra Nova All-Suite Hotel, New Kingston’s Hot Pot Restaurant, Jamaica Pegasus, Courtleigh & Knutsford Court hotels and the Boone Hall Oasis in Stony Hill — all renowned for their delectable selection of local and international fare.
Crabs at Heroes’ Circle
Across the street from the National Heroes’ Park (the burial site for Jamaica’s freedom fighters) and directly before the entrance of the Fletcher’s Land community is a small gathering of persons huddling, as if sharing a secret. A smell permeates the air, drawing you even closer to the bubbling pot of land crabs — a popular delicacy on that side of town, and at a national landmark to boot.
Genuine Leather Sandals at Premier Plaza
Neatly displayed in rows along the sidewalks of Premier Plaza, Half-Way-Tree, as well as North Parade, downtown Kingston, are beautiful hand-crafted sandals made of genuine leather. Accompanied, of course, by the craftsmen bearing handbags and belts created from similar materials, calling pleasantly to passers-by as they shop in the area. They, too, have been a staple of Kingston for decades.
The Police
What’s a city without policemen? In Kingston, they can be found just about everywhere — directing traffic, roaming the streets in their cars, astride an elegant horse or on motorcycles and ensuring that the traffic laws are upheld. The Jamaica Constabulary Force always maintains a presence on the streets to “serve, protect and reassure” motorists and commuters alike as they go about their daily activites.
Loader Men and Taxi Stands
Kingston is known for many things, and the infamous ‘loader men’ – ie the often aggressive and sometimes comical men who make a living by shoving passengers into waiting taxis and buses on arrival for a fee. They can be found at any taxi stand (read: a public, often informal area where buses and taxis gather awaiting passengers), and truth be told, even if you’re not one to travel via public transportation, you cannot escape their shrill cries as you pass by: “T’ree-Mile! Papine-UC-Campus! New Kingston! Crossroad-Town! Mount’n View!”
Derrick Harriott’s One-Stop Records, CDs and Videotapes
Owned by popular veteran reggae singer Derrick Harriott, this establishment is one of the oldest record shops in the Half-Way-Tree area and is still considered a landmark. Just ask anyone for Twin Gates Plaza, and you will surely be greeted with “the one Derrick Harriott’s record store is on”.
