London Town
London, the other city that never sleeps. When I first arrived here 20-odd years ago, it wasn’t the cosmopolitan, dynamic capital that it is today. In the intervening years though, the influx of immigrants from far and wide — London has a diverse range of peoples, cultures, and religions, with more than 300 languages spoken within its boundaries — has introduced an array of ethnic foods to tempt what was a somewhat unsophisticated British palate, making London these days a gastronomic paradise. It is tip top for fashion and shopping, and with a history that is almost 2,000 years old it has been described as the world’s cultural capital. It has the most international visitors of any city in the world and London’s Heathrow is the world’s busiest airport by its number of international passengers. In 2012, London will become the first city to host the modern Summer Olympic Games three times, the crowning glory to a city which, as far as I am concerned, already has everything else (oh, except good weather)!
To Live
The leafy enclaves of Chelsea, Fulham and Knightsbridge still have their place, and once upon a time Notting Hill was the London hot spot for living. These days, new ‘modern’ developments in areas like Paddington Walk (10 minutes by foot from Notting Hill) give New York-style loft living, on a canal, in apartments with high ceilings, all mod cons and underground parking, a veritable plus in London. As well, local transportation (taxis, buses and underground, and the Paddington Express to Heathrow) is easily accessible, as is the A40 motorway out of London.
To Eat
Once upon a time, British food was considered tasteless and unimaginative. But those were the days of yore. With so much to choose from, you could dine at a different restaurant every day of the year if you wanted, and still not hit them all. The influx of immigrants in the last 40 years from the Caribbean, Africa, Asia and beyond has not only brought variety to what is available, but has also injected a curious twist to traditional British cuisine. Curry is deemed the national dish of England these days, and that is probably true as you can find a curry house on every corner (and being partial to curry myself, that suits me just fine). My all-time favourite place for curry has got to be the Bombay Brasserie on Gloucester Road. Sophisticated and stylish, it has a menu that will make your mouth water. As for my other gastronomic favourites, I still have a soft spot for Nobu on Park Lane, but Zuma in Knightsbridge comes a close second, offering contemporary Japanese cuisine with a twist and a happening bar and lounge. For something totally unusual, however, head to Anar in Notting Hill Gate; it’s an authentic Persian restaurant that really transports you back in time. The menu is not extensive, but this is traditional Persian cooking at its best. And, saving the best for last: Cambio De Tercio on Old Brompton Rd. A Spanish gem, with classic Spanish cuisine, and exceptionally good wines, make sure, though, to book early as what used to be a relatively unknown eatery is no longer so. Its popularity makes it exceedingly difficult to get a table on short notice, unless you know the owner Abel. Mouth-watering delicacies such as the traditional Cordoban Rabo de Toro (Oxtail slow-cooked in a sherry sauce) and the electric Mediterranean décor and atmosphere make it worth the wait.
Not to be forgotten as well, after a late night on the tiles, is Maroush. Tucked away in Beauchamp Place in Knightsbridge it serves the best, and I mean the best, Lebanese food outside of Beirut. Its Lamb and Chicken Shawarmas are gourmet quality, and its Shish (prawn, chicken or lamb with garlic sauce) needs to be tasted to be believed. It also has the added bonus that it is open all night… for all you late-night revellers.
To Shop
My favourite pastime! My first stop is always Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge (also great for cocktails and lunch on the fifth floor) and, if I can’t find it there, I go to Selfridges. However, for quirky and funky head down the Kings Road. Portobello Market in Notting Hill is still a favourite for vintage; you just never know what you can find. You can be guaranteed, though, that it will be a bargain. Sloane Street and New Bond Street are where I get to meet all my old and dear friends, Jimmy, Ralph, Christian and (tucked away behind Sloane Street on Motcombe Street) Gucci, Chanel, Prada, and on and on. It’s paradise, and it doesn’t matter how often you go, you’ll find you keep going back. If you don’t want to break the bank, leave the plastic at home!
Once the preserve of urban dwellers, Wimbledon Village has become a day-tripper’s delight on a weekend. It’s where the city meets the country, well, outside the environs of Central London. So be prepared to travel, but it’s worth the train ride, for boutique treasures like Matches, Question Air, Access, Canvas Luella’s Boudoir, and many others.
To Party
London has one of the coolest club scenes, so it really depends on your particular taste, as there is something for everyone. Clubs like Mahiki and Boujis, which regularly make it onto the front page of the tabloid papers with their A-list and royal clientele, are great party spots, but access isn’t always easy unless you know the owner or have made friends with the doorman! The Ministry of Sound still reigns supreme as the ultimate club experience, and Pacha (one of the best clubs in Ibiza, with a London address as well) is a must if you are ever in London. It re-opened in 2001, after a £two-million refit, and attracts a very glamorous crowd and some of Europe’s top deejays, like Hed Kandi and David Guetta. Newly opened PUBLIC (which has a sister spot in Verbier that rocks out during the winter ski season, is 5,000 sq feet of virgin industrial glam clubbing heaven, making it the ultimate party venue. One cannot forget China White, which I could only describe as the Original. All the clubs listed before (except for the Ministry of Sound) came in its wake, so to an extent could be described as pretenders to the throne… but very good ones, I might add.
To Drink
Of course, Britain is well known for its pubs, and in London there is also no shortage of these available. Usually you can walk down a street and find several pubs on any given block, and with new licensing laws that allow Publicans to open 24 hours, if they so desire, the pub trade has in no way diminished since I first arrived on these wet and windy shores. I am not a pub person per se; I prefer the lounge/bar, and there is a plethora of these sophisticated watering holes all around London. The Blue Bar at the Berkeley Hotel on Wilton Street is well known as the funky little spot within the more sedate — some may say, old-fashioned — Berkeley Hotel. It could only be likened to a very posh — and possibly eccentric — grand dame’s sitting room. The universal blue colour (hence its name) extends from the carpet to the walls and furniture. The atmosphere is a contrast of Edwardian Britain (a testament to Edward Lutchyens, who designed the original room) with an avant-garde twist, and the drinks are equally as eclectic.
A stone’s throw away from the Blue Bar is the bar at the Mandarin Oriental which, I think, serves some of the finest cocktails in London. An exclusive sanctuary away from the confines of Knightsbridge is The Long Bar at the Sanderson, the Philippe Starck-designed hotel in London’s Soho. The Long Bar is hugely chic, but is still one of the more accessible of London’s many flashy bars. Inside, it’s sleek, modern and starkly white and — as you’d expect from the name — it possesses one of London’s longest bars, some 80 feet in length, serving all manner of Martinis and Champagne cocktails, including some outstanding house specials. Posh punters abound, to see and be seen. This modish saloon gives you a taste of the high life, even if it is just for one night.
The Eclipse on Walton Street, meanwhile, serves the best Caipirinhas this side of the equator, and Sunday nights, the bar is open from 5:00 pm, and the Brazilian bongo drummer an added accompaniment. Work on Monday after a Sunday at the Eclipse is never pleasant.
For some more intense Latin flavour, on the other side of town, head across to Wardour Street. Floridita is London’s greatest tribute to Havana style and culture. The potent Daiquiri cocktails are the essential menu item in this impossibly chic Cuban-themed bar and restaurant. Live music is played with Cuban bands taking centre stage and ensuring the dance floor fills up faster and more energetically than in most London-style bars.
For proper London chic, however, head to Sketch, where high fashion, fantasy and flamboyance are intimate bedfellows. ‘Dazzling’ and ‘design’ are the main buzzwords here. Quite appropriately then, it is laid out over two floors, on the former site of the Royal Institute of British Architects. The Sketch complex comprises two critically acclaimed restaurants, an art gallery, a salon de thé, and two spectacular bars. This place is so fashionable, in fact, that even the toilets — a collection of bright-white, egg-shaped, space-age pods — are a talking point. From the drinks menus to the handwritten napkins, the devil is very much in the detail at Sketch. The lighting is similarly spectacular, as are the extortionately priced drinks, but it really is worth it even if for just one night. The décor is simply awesome, and the fashionistas and celebrities who flow through the door in search of Nirvana are equally magnificent.