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Understanding Médoc, Haut-Médoc & Cru Bourgeois
Château Liouner has some very interesting artwork on the walls of its winery.
Lifestyle, Local Food, Local Lifestyle, Style, Style Observer, Thursday Food, Tuesday Style
with Christopher Reckord  
September 18, 2013

Understanding Médoc, Haut-Médoc & Cru Bourgeois

At the Wine Rack

Since we began coverage on our recent sojourn to Bordeaux, I have received e-mails and calls discussing the rise and fall of French wine.

Many want to know where to find good French wines, while some argue that French wines no longer have a place on our shelves.

While Jamaica has experienced a major influx of really great new wines in recent times, I hasten to remind our readers that Bordeaux is home to some of the most expensive, sought-after wines in the world. A few weeks ago, we covered one of the main right bank wine regions — St émilion. Today, we focus on the Médoc region on the left bank of the river.

Médoc & Haut-Médoc

The majority of Bordeaux wines available in Jamaica hail from the Médoc region. What confuses people is the fact that the same names are used for the geographic area and also for the wine region. Geographically, the term Médoc is often used to refer to the whole left bank region. Médoc is also the name of a controlled wine-making region or AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée). Most wineries prefer to use the names of the sub-appellations within the Médoc as they carry more prestige. Haut-Médoc is a smaller controlled wine area situated within the geographic Médoc, but it is south of the Médoc AOC, For comparison think Cornwall, St James, Montego Bay to understand Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc.

In addition to Médoc & Haut-Médoc six other important wine-producing regions exist. Margaux AOC, Listrac-Médoc AOC, Moulis-en-Médoc AOC, Saint-Julien AOC, Pauillac AOC and Saint-Estèphe AOC. These are the names you will see on the wine bottle if the estate is located within any of these areas. If the wine-making estate falls outside of these areas, they can put Haut-Médoc on the bottle. We were very happy to be able to sit, taste and examine wines from each of these communes and be able to notice the clear differences — it was an eye-opening journey, indeed.

Cru Bourgeois

Back in 1855, in order assist visitors to the Exposition Universelle de Paris, Napoleon III requested a classification system for France’s best Bordeaux wines. Wine professionals of the day ranked the wines according to a château’s reputation and trading price, which at that time was directly related to quality. The wines were ranked in importance from first to fifth growths (crus). All of the red wines that made it on the list came from the Médoc region, except for one: Château Haut-Brion from Graves. Sixty-one properties are on that list. They are not cheap.

For the best value in Bordeaux wines, look to Cru Bourgeois. The term Cru Bourgeois (boor-ZHWAH)tBourgeois wineries called Château Fontesteau. On our final day in Bordeaux we were feted at another Cru Bourgeois property called Château Liouner. See photo highlights.

There is a Bordeaux wine for everyone, regardless of your preference. No two Bordeaux are alike, even if produced on adjacent lands. The character of the wine is found in the soul and hands of the winemaker and the traditions he or she follows.

Christopher Reckord — businessman, entrepreneur & wine enthusiast. Send your questions and comments to creckord@gmail.com. Follow us on twitter: @Reckord

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At lunch with Michelle Saintout, mayor of Saint-Estèphe; HonAnthony Hylton, minister of Industry, Investment andCommerce; Dominique Fouin, Mayor of Saint-Sauveur andwinemaker/co-owner, Château Fontesteau.
TVJ cameraman Leevan Rainford was hard at work in Francecapturing every aspect of Reggae Sun Ska, on and off thestage. Here he is at Château Liouner, as Gari Ferguson andLorraine Fung listen to the toasts.
Many of the wineries do not have their own bottling plants and have to use services like thismobile bottler to put their wines in bottles.
Pascal Pascal Bosq ownerand winemaker — ChâteauLiouner offers us a fewbottles of his 1964 vintage. DrOsmond Tomlinson checks thenose on the wine — it wasgood to go!
Wines from the vineyard once called Renouil, which is locatedin the Listrac-Médoc. Since its acquisition by the family Bosqin the 1920s, four generations have produced this wonderfulwine. The name was changed to Liouner, which is an anagramof the original name.
Gillian Wilkinson-McDaniel, senior director — entertainment in theMinistry of Tourism & Entertainment, nosing the Bordeaux Claret madeby Véronique Barthe. A favourite wine for the summer, because it’sfresh, light and fruity.
If you are especially nice toDominique Fouin, mayor ofSaint-Sauveur andwinemaker/co-ownerChâteau Fontesteau, hemight go into the barrelrooms and bring somethingvery special for you to try.
When you are actuallystaying at a winery and theowner and winemaker saysto you, ‘Help yourself toany of the wines in thekitchen cellar’, considerthe oft-repeated phrase ‘becareful what you wish for,because…’ The wines ofChâteau Fontesteau wereelegant with their intensityand well-extracted ripefruit flavours with firmtannins and an elegantMédoc finish.
Uncorked, located at SovereignNorth Plaza, offers Bordeauxwines by the glass.
The castle that houses Château Fontesteau is one of the jewels of the Médoc. It was initially built in the 13th century andrenovated in 1997. It is situated in the middle of a 100-hectare (247-acre) park. The building still preserves its three crenelatedtowers and the ramparts. In olden times the location has witnessed the passage of the Saint Jacques de Compostelle pilgrims aswell as the visit of King Francis I of Valois. The 32-hectare (80-acre) vineyard has been for the last 20 years noteworthy for itsapproach to organic grape-growing methods.
Château Liouner’s special cuvée thatcurrent owner and winemaker makesin honour of his father Pierre. Made inthe best years with 100% CabernetFranc.
Our final supper in France held at Château Liouner. Standing (left to right): Dr OsmondTomlinson, Pascal Bosq, owner and winemaker — Château Liouner, Jean-GuillaumeBouyssy, president of Reggae Sun Ska, Chef/ Patron G’s BBQ Garel Ferguson. Sitting(left to right) Chef/Patron, Miss T’s Kitchen Anna-Kay Tomlinson, Chris Reckord, catererLorraine Fung and journalist Stephanie Binet.
Château Liouner also producesa very refreshing Rosé, anothersummer favourite in Europe.Red wine lovers in Jamaicashould experiment more withRosé wines.
Some of the wineries have a‘special wine’ that they makealong with their main product.Château Fontesteau’s specialwine is called ‘Variation deFontesteau’ and is made from aspecial selection of the bestbarrels.

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