A MESHING OF STYLES
Speaking about the reach and vibrancy of Jamaican culture has almost become commonplace. But one look at the jerk stands in Manhattan, the coffee shops in Europe ostensibly pouring Blue Mountain Coffee, the dancehalls in Paris and the patois-seasoned, ahem, “Multicultural London English” widespread in the former Empire’s capital, one truly begins to appreciate the massive creative impact our tiny island has had on a global scale. Jamaica’s had quite the impact where fashion is concerned too. The most outstanding example perhaps being the production of a Rasta collection by former Dior designer John Galliano for the luxury brand’s line of bags and shoes. And let’s not forget Stella MacCartney’s straw baskets inspired by her idyllic summer childhood vacations with mum Linda and dad Paul at Round Hill Hotel & Villas.
We combed the catwalks from recent shows in London and Milan and found evidence of a few of our standard looks popping up in the collections of a few top-brand designers. We’re talking about the casually brash string vest (or, as they’re locally known, the mesh merino), the gaudy gold chains and the unapologetically colourful clothes. SO takes a look back at this simple yet boisterous style that has been experiencing something of a renaissance among the younger dancehall set (as evidenced by recent productions from dancehall artists Aidonia, Konshens and Romain Virgo). Then we jet across the Atlantic to take a look at how elements of this style have woven their way (in some ways subtle; in other ways a little more brash) into the collections of two luxury brands — Versace and Burberry Prorsum — at recent fashion shows in London and Milan
The Classic Look
The string vest perhaps had its most extravagant showing in the no-holds-barred era of the early nineties. The simple garment was often paired with oversized, multi-coloured jackets or knee-length vests with bold, colourful patterns. Gold jewellery was a must, with the standard being the ubiquitous gold chain. ‘The bolder the better’ was a popular mantra for this era.
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Men sometimes sported boxy jackets or large colourful vests without any undergarment. The gold chains often completed the look.
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Recording artist Busy Signal recently paid homage to the dancehall look of the early 90s with this mesh ‘merino’ and gold chain pairing in the “Watch Out For This (Bumaye)” video on which he was featured.
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Dancehall fashion has always revelled in the notion of the subversive. Note the brash presence of the brand label and sales tag on the jacket.
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The gold chain pairing with a simple undergarment has experienced a rebirth among the younger dancehall crowd.
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Excessive yet patterned detailing were hallmarks of early dancehall fashion, as seen on this suit worn by Lieutenant Stitchie.
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Gold was king of the dancehall two decades ago. Dancehall artist Major Mackerel donned multiple gold chains atop this oversized jacket with patterned perforated detailing.
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Artists were often fearless in their pairing of brightly coloured bling and bold prints.
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Along with gold chains, men sometimes donned multiple gold rings and large statement bracelets. They also did not shy away from head-to-toe patterning. (From left: Kirk Davis posing with his brother, dancehall recording artist Beenie Man).
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The ‘mesh merino’ paired with lots of gold jewellery was a simple but effective way to make a fashion statement.
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Before the excess of the nineties, men sported a more subdued look. The undershirt shown here is covered by a body-hugging sheer top. A knit cap and handkerchief tied as a neck scarf completes the look.
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Going-out attire often included oversized shirts accented with flashy designs on the sleeves, bodice and shoulders of the garment.
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Dancehall artist Mad Cobra sporting the mesh tank paired with gold chain ensemble.
Versace
Donatella Versace’s spring/summer 2015 collection, shown at Milan Fashion Week earlier this month, was an interesting spread of toga-wrapped swim trunks, palm tree-decorated biker jackets and bright double-breasted suits whose sun-kissed colours called to mind the backdrop of a street in Havana, Cuba. But we had another Caribbean island in mind when we got a look at the stream of mesh-shirted models rocking boxy outer jackets and gold chains.
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This model sported one of the staple looks of the Versace collection — mesh tank paired with an outer shirt and gold chain.
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The designer showcased sleekly tailored jumpsuits with modest jewel accessories for the men.
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The mesh tank made an appearance in a number of the Versace’s looks showcased at Milan Fashion Week.
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The boxy outer jacket with matching coloured pants recalls the 90s creations of the designer’s older brother, Gianni.
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Versace took the mesh look a step further with this head-to-toe white perforated denim suit.
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The designer played with more intricate detailing for the crocheted effect in the shirt’s bodice.
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Harking back to the Romanesque symbols that define the brand, Versace pairs this mesh top and tights combo with a wrap to create a toga-like effect.
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Paired with these perforated black pants is this lurid biker jacket overlaid with designs meant to evoke the Havana streets.
Burberry Prorsum
Burberry CEO and Chief Creative Officer Christopher Bailey delivered a menswear collection awash in flowy, romantic trench coats, soft silk scarves and oversized floral shirts at London Fashion Week in January this year. The mesh tank was ostensibly used as part of a uniform to better showcase the wintery and autumnal palettes of his outerwear designs.
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The simple mesh tank acted as an anchor to showcase a variety of outerwear, including boxy shirts, delicate cardigans, scarves and afghans.
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Some of Bailey’s outerwear designs, including this bright red trench coat and silk scarf, came to life when contrasted with the black and white palette of the mesh tank and dark pants.
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The designer draped his models in boxy silk shirts that featured subdued wintery hues.
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Bailey titled his collection “A Painterly Journey”.
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The canvas bag was a popular accessory throughout the designer’s show at London Fashion Week earlier this year.