The parish of St Elizabeth (fondly known as ‘Saint E’, ‘Senty’ and ‘St Bess’) is named after Lady Elizabeth Modyford and was once the largest parish in Jamaica, which later was divided into Manchester and Westmoreland.

St Elizabeth has played an important role in Jamaican history, from the early presence of Spanish settlers, to its later role as a major slave trade port and its subsequent relevance in the Sam Sharpe rebellion. Across history St Elizabeth has amassed an impressive collection of 18th-century architecture.

We have always loved the town of Black River; it has a quaint and quiet appeal that speaks to a certain authentic warmth and genteel “Jamaicanness”.

The town is named after the river, which in turn gets its name from the darkness of the riverbed, which is lined with thick layers of decomposing vegetation. Black River is, in fact, one of the oldest settlements in the island and is said to have been the first town to receive not only electricity but also the island’s first motor vehicle.

Throughout the 19th century Black River was a vibrant fishing town and host to colourful balls, banquets and the annual circus. The town’s lively social life came to a halt during the cholera outbreak and was never able to bounce back to its social glory. Black River is celebrated for having the best seafood in Jamaica and houses one of the largest freshwater fisheries in the island.

But seafood is not the only attraction of this beautiful parish — for adventurers, nature lovers and thrill seekers alike Black River Safari is a must-stop. It’s no wonder then, that despite Suzanne’s resistance, Michelle insisted on a visit to the Black River Safari.

The local community is committed to preserving the natural habitat that the river provides, spending great energy and time on rearing the endangered American crocodile in an effort to raise the population and keeping a close watch out for poachers.

After an exhilarating one-and-a-half-hour boat ride along six miles of river and some close contact with the natural inhabitants of the river, including over 100 species of birds, fish and, naturally, some ‘friendly’ crocs, we were exhilarated and ready to try out some of the local seafood the parish has to offer.

‘St E’ is home to many of the island’s best seafood restaurants; and at the end of our river trek we meet up with longtime friend James Godfrey, a connoisseur of the area, and head over to Alligator Pond to his favourite local spot, Oswald’s, a family-owned seafood joint that practically kisses the ocean and is named after its gregarious and hospitable owner.

Exclusively featuring fresh catch of the day, Oswald’s specialises in jerked seafood using its unique secret homemade jerk seasoning. But don’t expect the run of the mill here. Oswald’s features the widest range of exotic seafood that we have ever seen on local menus to date: think octopus (or sea puss), shark, eel, king crab along with the regular mahi mahi, snapper, conch, shrimp, lobster.

Chef Asher, Oswald’s nephew, has mastered the art of seasoning and is creative in his use of ingredients and flavours.

Incidentally, we also ate some of the best festival that we have ever tasted outside of Hellshire. But, quite frankly, what tipped the scales in the realm of ecstasy was his innovative and absolutely sublime grilled jerked mango. There are simply no words.

The south coast is rich with activities, attraction and culture that should not be missed; YS Falls, Lover’s Leap, Appleton Rum Factory and Treasure Beach, to name a few. Hospitable, loving, warm, kind, open are words that best describe our St Elizabeth experience and the people of good ole’ St Bess.

As we wound out the day sipping Red Stripe in Oswald’s casual, but chic ‘VIP’ lounge, gazing at a crimson St Elizabeth sunset, we had one thought — beautiful! Beautiful people, beautiful landscapes, and of course, beautiful food.

What more could we ask for? We can only wonder why on earth it took us so long to make the journey!