It was a no-brainer, really: the searing heat in Kingston vs a drive to Salt Hill to lunch at a new restaurant. Reservations confirmed for noon and directions in hand, we cut it close and have 45 minutes to get there.

Let me immediately ‘fess up that, after turning right at Gordon Town Police Station and following the road for about 20 minutes, a mental note is made to ensure that any other visit will include a whiz of a driver like Michael ‘Scanner’ Gayle.

It’s a steep, treacherous drive up to Blue Ridge Restaurant & Cottages, and holding the left to Guava Ridge and Quashie Gap before making a right and looking for the Blue Ridge signs requires nerves of steel. That said, the topography is as breathtaking as it is heartbreaking, for the recent spate of fires (they’re still ongoing) has wreaked havoc on our flora and fauna.

The Blue Ridge sign is most welcome, as is the cool mountain air.

We are met on arrival by business partners Tabetha Phillips, formerly of San Diego, California, and executive chef Sarah Willers, who up until four years ago called Florida home. Their establishment includes a two-deck restaurant and two cottages (more are on the horizon). The 700- square foot lower deck area where we opt to enjoy lunch affords views of Cinchona, Hall’s Delight and the Blue Mountain Peak. The 300-square foot upper deck area is where dinner guests enjoy the lights of city Kingston below.

We’re the only ones at Blue Ridge thus far, so have enough time to enjoy a guided tour of the property, glean details about the bounty of the land, which includes bananas, coffee, plantains, pumpkins, cocoa, otaheiti apples, pimento, corn, sugar and pear, from caretaker Denzil Hollingsworth. The two cosy cottages, both with great views and positive energy, will soon, we reckon be in great demand.

Back on the lower deck we quench our thirst with tall glasses of lemonade and contemplate lunch.

From appetisers to mains there’s something for everyone. Chef Sarah Willers, who returned home four years ago has taken her time to create an impressive, but far from intimidating menu. Would it be worth, in the words of Gayle, the ridiculous drive? We’d soon find out.

From the appetisers we select escoveitched chicken bites and bacon-wrapped plantain with cilantro cream sauce ignore the salads, although super-tempting: there’s garden, BLT and Greek, and a soup of the day – and order the Blue Ridge roast chicken, grilled pork chops in guava glaze, salmon in cilantro cream sauce (there’s guava glaze, too), the grilled chicken in linguine with creamy cilantro sauce and the Blue Ridge burger with plantain, bacon and cilantro cream sauce.

For dessert we order mini Thai doughnuts which come with chocolate sauce, caramel sauce and a rum butter sauce.

A lot of food, we’re told – we are four – hmmm, let’s see how good you are.

The arrival of the appetizers, each on its own wooden tray, speaks volumes. The Johnson & Wales trained Chef Willers was emphatic that dining up in the mountains was going to be an experience… indeed it was unfolding right before our very eyes!

All else required was a TV for the tray of escoveitched chicken bites complete with popcorn. The bacon wrapped plantains begged to be popped into the mouth. Delish!

The mains did not disappoint, and we’re still relishing the garlic-mashed potatoes with the Blue Ridge roast chicken, not to mention the grilled pork chops in guava glaze… there were no disappointments. Chef Sarah’s propensity for sauces stem from her association with Aunt May’s Sauces. She’s the CEO. An intro to Thai cuisine from a college chum piqued her interest in cilantro and mini Thai doughnuts, we soon discover with the arrival of yet another gloriously styled tray. The doughnuts arrive with individual containers of chocolate sauce, caramel sauce and, you guessed it, condensed milk which allows us to drizzle it all over the doughnuts, just like at a Thai restaurant.

Coffee – we’re on a coffee farm so it’s delicious black gold.

Early days yet, but we are thankful to see the arrival of more patrons. A smile is elicited at the discovery that it’s Food Awards judge Matthew Hogarth and his family. Foodie notes will be exchanged anon… Until then, hasty reservations are suggested! Walk the grounds after you’ve placed your order — preparing meals from scratch and styling trays take time.

— NMW

Blue Ridge Restaurant & Cottages

Open for lunch Saturday and Sunday

& Dinner Fri/Sat/Sun

Reservations Only

How To Get There…

Salt Hill Lot 9 St Andrew

From Papine to Gordon Town.

At Gordon Town Police Station, make a right and go across the bridge.

Follow road for about 20 minutes to Guava Ridge. Stay to the left. Follow to Quashie Gap. Make a right and then look for Blue Ridge sign

Lunch for four, inclusive of service charge: $10, 645