If I said that a sublime fine dining experience was available pon di roadside between two hideous strip malls just before the gas station on the main road in Runaway Bay, you would probably ask me to share what I had been smoking!

L’Escargot, the latest incarnation of Chef Neville Anderson, proprietor of the ill-fated Aubergine, is a culinary sensation. In a little over an hour, via the highway to the North Coast, one is transported from a bustling Kingston to a quaint bistro à la Provence.

Perhaps it’s the white door archway through which you enter underneath the stairs? The Gauguin & Rauschenberg prints? The wooden beams, hanging copper pots, or the three-tiered white tablecloth settings? Perhaps it’s the option to dine cosily inside or al fresco below the huge almond tree? The statuesque wait staff dressed in red berets and cravats? Who knows exactly why, but the exquisite combination of all these features creates an unforgettable French mood. Nous étions arrivés! We had arrived!

We had called ahead advising the chef to chill a bottle of Prosecco in the freezer and decided to ease our way in with appetisers outside. As we walked in, Chef Anderson was putting the final touches on the al fresco set-up with the black and white cushions on the metal chairs. A true aesthete, Anderson has an obsessive eye for detail. The right-sized menu is in French with an English translation. Offerings include traditional French favourites like onion soup, escargot, pâté, coq au vin, and salmon fillet as well as some distinctive nouvelle cuisine such as smoked marlin with mousse or grilled prawns marinated in an orange liqueur.

We began our foodie sojourn with the garlic butter and herbs escargot (land snails). It was so mouth-wateringly melty

that we immediately put in for a second order. It was universally agreed that the last time we had snails this good we were on the other side of the Atlantic. Then came chicken liver pâté and the chèvre (goat’s cheese) salad with Bordeaux stewed pears. In each case layers of flavour exploded in our mouths. In one instant, I confess I even teared up as I could not imagine that we were enjoying French food this good in Jamaica, much less pon di roadside in Runaway Bay! After a leisurely beginning, we moved inside for cooler climes and entrées.

The adventure continued inside with the special of the day – the Bouillabaisse: a fish stew from Marseilles. Originally a cheap meal for fishermen, Bouillabaisse: has become one of the most sought after gourmet dishes in the world. Chef Anderson got its rich aromatic flavours just right with the fresh fish submerged in the tomatoes, garlic, and wine and olive oil fish stock.

The subtly grilled rare lamb chops with rosemary were equally heavenly with a side of roasted potatoes and seasonal vegetables. The coq au vin was good but could have been a little less heavy on the sauce, to allow more of the braised chicken flavour to shine through. The periodic silences at our table of three particularly chatty friends showed just how much we were enjoying the culinary experience.

The staff are attentive but not intrusive, capturing the right mix of friendly and helpful service. At Neville’s insistence they have all eaten everything on the menu so they are aware enough to make helpful recommendations. Good service continues to be quite rare on the island, so when we get it we notice. This team is off to an excellent start.

The only disappointment to an otherwise perfect experience was the dessert. The French practically invented and have kept mastery of the dessert course, so when you eat dessert in a French restaurant, you expect a miniorgasm. We ordered all the dessert options available that day which included a chocolate cake with orange liqueur, a creamy parfait and a Crêpe Suzette with tangy fruits. Sadly most were passable, none exceptional. They needed to be richer and in possession of more robust flavours.

The cake and the crêpes were more dry than moist. As far as desserts are concerned, L’Escargot needs to wheel and come again. In the meantime, we will toss this misstep up to teething pains. This will not stop us from going back often, though. Last year’s heady new dining experience was Indian Fusion Nirvanna, and this year we are happy to report that we have fallen foodie head over Frenchie heels with L’Escargot.

This is the summer spot to hit. Open every day except Mondays, from 1:00 pm to 10:00 pm. A three-course meal with a good wine will set you back about US$60/$70 a head. If you skip a course or skimp on the wine, you can do it for US$40. Welcome back to the dining scene, Neville Anderson, we have missed your style and your savoir faire. Who says you have to go to France for proper French food? Non, monsieur! C’est pas vrai! It’s right here in Runaway Bay.

— Pondi

Editor’s note: We went to see for ourselves a few days later and profoundly disagree with Nevada’s assessment of the Crêpe Suzette, finding it actually quite moist and flavourful!