THE ability to swing soft, long tresses from side to side and pose in profile, with extra lashes also flashing, is valued among the female of the species as a technique to attract the opposite sex.

Globally, black women have adopted the styling and profiling by buying the hair that moves in the wind.

However, the hair market in Jamaica might be buckling, as more natural styling takes hold and the cost of imported hair rises. Since 2018, there has been a significant fall-off in imports of hair and wigs, data from the Statistical Institute of Jamaica (Statin) show.

While about $54-million worth of hair and wig were imported in 2018, imports of the fashion accessories fell to $18 million in 2019 and continued at that same level in 2020.

Pandemic conditions in which fewer people ventured out to party and also work might have resulted in reduced hairstyling. Higher costs are also influential on choices by women.

It is not clear if the industry has recovered. It is also obvious that hair imports were falling even before 2020. While 2021 data are not yet available for the Jamaican market, it would appear that women are falling out of love with the long and luxurious tresses.

Their cousins, across the globe, however, are still enamoured, it would appear.

Market report source Arizton.com states, “The global hair wigs and extensions market size was valued at US$5.8 billion and is expected to reach US$13.3 billion by 2026, growing at a compound annual growth rate of 13 per cent during 2021–2026.”

The report states that the popularity of personal grooming and beauty products are the major factors likely to influence the market growth. Also influential is loss of hair among women.

In Africa alone, the dry hair market for weaves, wigs and hair extensions is assessed as being worth over US$6 billion a year and growing.

A Nielsen report from 2018 and an Euromonitor study also from 2018 revealed that black women are willing to spend at least double the amount on hair and beauty products compared to white women.

Annually, researchers note, the value of trade in shampoos, relaxers and hair lotions in Nigeria, South Africa and Cameroon is over US$1.1 billion.

Stepping in style

The fear and rejection of their natural hair, strong, wiry and springing in every direction, has led thousands of women of African descent to enrich the suppliers of wigs and hair who offer to change their looks.

Sometimes, however, as women will share, it’s just a quest for hairstyles which are more manageable. Using synthetic hair and other hair solutions also allow women to change hairstyles as often as they please.

Whatever the reason, it is a hair affair which is the same globally. In the United Kingdom, the trend is the same.

In an October 2020 article in Glamour magazine, one woman shared, “Between my braids, wigs, hair pieces and hair products, I spend on average £2,000 to £2,500 per year on my hair.”

Glamour cited research which indicates that the haircare market in Great Britain was measured at 1.72 billion British pounds in December 2019; with black British women spending six times more than their white counterparts.

The majority of human hair used in wigs and extensions comes from India and China, it is indicated. However, buying and selling in the lucrative market has widened sources of the product.

Higher costs for hair

In Jamaica, as indicated by the Statin, imports in 2018 amounted to $54.27 million, sourced from Switzerland, China, the United Kingdom, Haiti, the US, Canada, Spain, Hong Kong, Korea, and the Cayman Islands.

One year later, $18.7-million worth of hair and wigs were imported from the same sources excluding Switzerland.

Imports were $18.23 million in 2020, the smallest volume and value, yet, over the three-year period of review.

In 2020 countries from which the hair and wig products were imported were more varied, including the Virgin Islands, Antigua and Barbuda, Canada, China, Ireland, Panama, Saint Lucia, the US, Bermuda,Curaçao, German, Hong Kong, Netherlands, Singapore, Switzerland, and the UK.

Traci, a 33-year-old Jamaican from St Catherine, shared with the Jamaica Observer that rising costs have forced herself and other friends to find more economical styling options.

Even when wigs and hair are purchased, it is kept for much longer periods before being renewed or changed, she observed.

She noted that many influencers who sport tresses obtain sponsorship to pay for their silky locks.

Traci said, “Gone are the days when a pack of braids cost $200 or $180 each. Now a pack of braids can cost you $700 or more and the hair in it is less. To be honest, [even] people who add hair or do the locs styles are keeping these styles for a while if they do get their hair done.

“Most women, including myself, have gone back natural because of the rising cost to relax and treat.”

She added, “For those who can afford the wigs, they live in them and a lot of these influencers don’t even buy they’re own hair. It’s sponsored for promotion.”

Painful removal

Olivia Shaw Lovell, CEO of NGO Women of Destiny, which trains women in natural hair services, told the Business Observer that the pain associated with using hair that is not one’s own is also a factor.

She said, “ I don’t think women are tired of buying hair, but the pain of having a full head of hair that is painful (removing glued-on hair is very painful) is no longer worth it. The term pain is beauty is no longer acceptable as we learn more about our hair and what can be achieved with extensions or without.”

She added, “Our women have evolved to appreciate their authentic state and to embrace the same. They are opting for styles that are less damaging to their hair and the hairstyles also have changed and as stylist they recognise to achieve a look, less is more.