Still travelling west, on reaching the community of Salt Marsh, Trelawny, a yellow sign with bold red lettering declared Boil Crab, Curry Crab, Live Crab below a large aluminium pot on the side of the highway.

We found 16-year-old Deon Downer Jr, a student at Muschette High School in the parish, manning the spot. Of the three offerings only boil crab was available with prices ranging from $400 up. Downer explained the curry and live ones were finished because the day had been particularly busy. By this time two cars had pulled up for sales. We chatted with Downer about the preparation process and how he got started in the business.

“We source our crabs in Westmoreland as we don’t have enough in Trelawny. Once we get those in, we wash them and start with our pot with water. The seasoning process is next. That involves adding pepper, cock soup, pimento seeds, salt, scallion, thyme and season salt. Then add the crabs to your pot when everything is at a nice boiling point,” Downer explained.

“My father would sell crabs during the season and about five years ago he was in a car accident and had a broken leg and couldn’t do his usual crab sales. I decided I would do it as we were low on money. I got the crabs but the man that was supposed to buy them had already gotten crabs. I decided to cook them and sell them right here. They sold out quickly and from then we have been doing it. Sometimes we have lobster and crab meatballs on the menu too,” he said.

This is the method that was taught to Downer by his father and the curry crab is done by his stepmother. Downer aspires to one day be a chef.

“I would become a chef as I have been cooking from a tender age and the feedback from customers is that this is the best crab they’ve had. I plan to do 6th form at William Knibb and focus on Food and Nutrition. My stepmother is here during the week when I’m at school but I’m here in the evenings after school sometimes and on Sundays,” Downer Jr added.

He explained that crab buyers displayed preferences for male crabs if they wanted more meat and some persons preferred the female crabs if they liked the eggs. Overall, sales were brisk on all items.

— Text & photos by