A Taste of Manchester
A Taste of Manchester
Sunday, May 19, 2024
Godfrey Lands, Mandeville
“Thirty-seven years ago, when I came to Mandeville, there were a lot of English expats, lots of returning residents… every time you went out for Kalooki, dominoes, other games like Backgammon, there was always ackee puffs and callaloo puffs. Puffs were the thing! And I used to really enjoy them because that’s something I knew very well from Trinidad. It’s in every pastry store in Trinidad… So I felt right at home,” related Débè-Ann Lange-Chen, creative director, Cutting Edge Gourmet by Débè.
“I don’t see puffs anywhere else in Jamaica. I really don’t. I only see them here. So since it’s a Taste of Manchester I figured that’s what we’d start with today.”
On cue, servers emerged from the back of the house with a melange of Lange-Chen’s Trinidad-style puffs. ‘Taste of Manchester’, a specially curated culinary tour for Jamaica Observer Managing Director Dominic Beaubrun, Deputy Managing Director Natalie Chin-Samuda, Jamaica Observer Table Talk Food Awards Chair Novia McDonald-Whyte and her judges, was underway!
The scene? Cool, cool Mandeville (well, not so much these days) on a lush property in Godfrey Lands, Mandeville, in the same space where the Trinidadian-born chef has been sharing her culinary creations with her Jamaican family and friends for over 30 years.
“There’s no ackee and there’s no callaloo. We have cheese, salmon, chicken, and ham. Each one has a different flavour profile. The ham is a little sweet with relish. Cheese is traditional with my [Jan’s Pepper Sauce], you never mix the cheese with Scotch bonnet, you always mix it with a bottled pepper sauce. The chicken is a traditional chicken salad and the salmon is an imperial cut,” said Lange-Chen.
“If the puff is crispy on the top, the person who made them failed,” continued Lange-Chen as she encouraged everyone to indulge! Her Candied Spicy Caribbean Passion Bacon was the perfect complement.
Lange-Chen shared the spotlight with three Manchester eateries that she swears by: OMG Restaurant & Coffee Bar, Toast, and Flamin Wok.
Happy Hour at 1:00 pm on a Sunday? Not really! It’s actually Happy Hour & a Half, a spin on the traditional happy hour, trademarked by OMG Restaurant & Coffee Bar. Mandeville’s place to “eat, meet, sip, and talk” served up Stuffed Best Dressed Thighs with roasted potatoes and carrots, as well as their signature Happy Hour & a Half signature cocktail: Tropical Storm punch and a shot of Kingston 62, a one-ounce cocktail with a half-ounce shot on the side.
Toast Restaurant and Gelato was next. It was nothing but feel-good vibes as structural engineer-cum-restaurateur Jason Whyte and his fiancée, Executive Chef Cassandra Thomas shared small plates paired with a lesson in love. The two met at the University of Technology, Jamaica in 2016, a year before they graduated. Thomas travelled the world honing her culinary skills along the way while Whyte remained in Jamaica and started a career in architectural design. Thomas eventually returned to Jamaica and started cooking at home. Whyte would do deliveries. Popular Mandeville businessman Miguel Smith, Sr presented the couple with an opportunity to start a restaurant. With Whyte handling décor and logistics, and Thomas curating the ideal menu, it was a match made in heaven.
The evening wrapped on a spicy note, with Executive Chef Junior Lowe’s Korean Fried Best Dressed Chicken and Stirfry Noodles. Yangnyeom dak, as it is called in South Korea, known for its crunchy exterior and spicy-sweet glaze, is a menu favourite at Lowe’s takeout spot Flamin Wok.
Cutting Edge Gourmet by Débè
Débè-Ann Lange-Chen, creative director
Candied Spicy Caribbean Passion Bacon
Assorted Puffs
OMG! Restaurant & Coffee Bar
Cobblestone Professional Centre
1 Brumalia Road, Mandeville
Chris Bird, owner
Stuffed Best Dressed Thighs w/roasted potatoes and carrots
OMG Happy Hour and a Half House Special cocktail
Toast Restaurant and Gelato
75 Ward Ave, Mandeville
Jason Whyte, co-owner
Cassandra Thomas, co-owner & executive chef
Coconut Shrimp Alfredo
Tamarind Pork Chops
House Salad (Kale, Cranberry, Apple, and apple cider vinaigrette)
Flamin Wok
Shop #1, Midway Mall, Mandeville
Junior Lowe, owner & executive chef
Korean Fried Best Dressed Chicken
Stirfry Noodles
***Special thanks to MegaMart, Mandeville for dessert
Food Awards judges Stacy Belnavis and Patricia Henry weigh in…
The Jamaica Observer Table Talk Food Awards judges rolled out early Sunday last from Kingston on an epicurean journey to the cool climes of Manchester. There was much as we all wondered what adventure awaited us.
Our destination was the home of award-wining caterer Débè-Ann Chen who was presented ‘A Taste of Manchester’. Trini to the bone but an esteemed honorary Jamaican having lived here for decades, Chen is an integral part of the local culinary landscape.
Salutations out of the way we were soon seated and perusing the afternoon’s menu. The property’s majestic garden was the perfect backdrop for the day. The sun was shining and the weather was indeed sweet. And of course, we were ready to partake in the festivities.
For the Taste of Manchester, the judges were introduced to four Mandeville-based restaurants who provided one course each. These included:
Cutting Edge Gourmet by Debe
OMG Restaurant & Coffee Bar
Toast
Flamin Wok
Cutting Edge Gourmet by Débè
Chen and her team kicked off with straight-off-the griddle stamp and go, which was quite the hit. After all, who doesn’t like a good stamp and go on a Sunday! They were certainly more-ish. This was followed by bottles of candied spicy bacon served with lemonade infused with lavender. An indisputable comforting start, or rather, amuse bouche.
Assorted puffs filled with ham, salmon, cream cheese and chicken salad complemented by Prosecco followed. The addition of Jan’s Pepper Sauce a recipe formulated by Chen’s mum as well as her Trinidad to Mandeville anecdotes kicked up the already melt-in-your mouth puffs several notches.
OMG Restaurant & Coffee Bar
The judges were treated to stuffed chicken thighs with roasted potatoes and carrots. The chicken was decadent, infused with a kaleidoscope of flavours
We were then introduced to the OMG Happy Hour and a Half House Special Cocktail which also came with a separate shot glass. The instructions were to take a shot before having the cocktail. The flavour was delicious and some of the judges took up the shot challenge whilst others knew their limits.
Toast & Gelato
Love has certainly found its way into the Toast kitchen with proprietors Jason Whyte and his fiancée, Executive Chef Cassandra Thomas. The two met at the University of Technology and the rest is history. The affable couple presented a coconut crusted shrimp and chicken alfredo duo, tamarind pork chops, and a house salad (kale, cranberry, apple and house dressing).
The coconut crusted chicken was on the dry side and the pasta was overcooked. These were our least favourite. The kale salad, however, was refreshing, crisp and perfectly enhanced by a light drizzle of flavourful dressing.
Flamin’ Wok
Executive chef and owner Junior Lowe thrilled us with his wok by serving Korean fried chicken, stir-fry noodles and steamed vegetables. The chicken was spicy and there was no need for Aunt Jan’s pepper sauce. The noodles were underwhelming as they needed some more flavour.
El Fin: Dessert courtesy of MegaMart
We were treated to traditional pound cake and donuts served with tea and coffee. The perfect end to this epicurean journey.
Special Notes:
The Aunt Jan’s pepper sauce had the right amount of kick and flavour and paired well with most of the courses. This new product will be hitting the shelves soon and will be sure to tantalise the taste buds. Ideal for individuals looking for a sauce that is flavourful but hot and spicy at the same time.
By late afternoon, the ‘real’ Mandeville weather started to emerge. The judges enjoyed the reprieve from the Kingston heat and sought solace in Chen’s beautiful garden and wrap-around verandah. A sweet end to a lovely introduction to what Manchester has to offer. We shall be back.
