Food Awards judge Janelle Pantry-Coke stopped by Steakhouse on the Verandah. Here’s her review.

Steak House on the Verandah has a lot to live up to. It has the unenviable task of providing a dining experience which lives up to the incomparable backdrop provided by the old-world elegance of Devon House. Not only is Devon House designated a National Monument by the Jamaica National Heritage Trust but it’s also a beautifully preserved Georgian-style Great House with a history dating back over 140 years to the building of the mansion by George Steibel and even more history dating back over 270 years to when a rectory was built on the property by the St Andrew Parish Church.

It was with this rich history in mind that we climbed the sweeping staircase from the courtyard to the expansive black-and-white tiled area which has become the home of Steakhouse on the Verandah.

We paused at the entrance and caught the eye of a waitress who quickly guided us past beautiful exposed brick walls, whitewashed balustrades and fretwork to a table in the far corner. We reviewed the restaurant’s mix of steak and seafood offerings even as we absorbed the old world glamour provided by the floor-to-ceiling wooden louvres and high ceilings.

We were disappointed to learn that they were out of ribeyes and T-bone steaks but decided that a 12oz USDA NY Strip prepared in the classic style (with just salt and pepper) would be worth a try. We also ordered the Char-Grilled Asian Salmon with shrimp tempura and an order of Scotch Bonnet Beef Butter (Bone Marrow) to start.

The appetisers arrived promptly and were served piping-hot. The shrimp was not exceptional but the Beef Butter was perfectly seasoned and delicious.

Shortly thereafter our waitress appeared with a beautifully plated NY Strip served with sautéed carrots and string beans and a side of sweet potato fries. The Asian salmon was also picture-perfect and came with a sesame ginger sauce for dipping.

The salmon could not be faulted and had just the right amount of char on the outside with a delicate flaky texture within. It was moist and flavourful and the ginger sauce provided a perfect contrast to salmon’s natural “seafood-y” flavour.

My eagerly anticipated steak didn’t quite live up to expectations, however. Although beautifully presented and quite flavourful it wasn’t quite as tender as one would have liked. The sweet potato fries which accompanied it were tasty but a little dry on the inside. Nevertheless, the house Pinot Noir was medium-bodied, not too complex, and rounded out the meal nicely.

On hearing that it was our anniversary, our gracious hostess provided us with a complimentary cheesecake dessert which we scarfed down, low carb/low sugar diets notwithstanding!

In sum, we would happily recommend Steakhouse on the Verandah but think it has a little way to go to live up to the amazing history and atmosphere of its home.