Word had got out that Chef Mathieu Masson-DuCeppe was back on the island and in development mode. Interpret this to mean: shopping around, understanding the lay of the land and most importantly, the local palate. Hardly a neophyte, Montreal, Canada-based Masson-DuCeppe commenced his culinary journey at 15, gained certification from the Institut de Tourisme et d’Hotellerie du Quebec (ITHQ), and is a 2014 Chopped Canada Season 2 winner.

There’s more! Masson-DuCeppe is the executive chef of Jellyfish Crudo et Charbon and the Pubjelly, two acclaimed Montreal eateries, and has designed over 10 kitchens, both in Canada and internationally, as well as starting a successful catering business.

All well and good but at $32K +GCT, would he impress? Would his menu pass muster?

It certainly did! From the cool, sophisticated explosion in the mouth of the Broiled Oyster amuse-bouche, Uncle Buck’s Pulled Pork Marmalade, Cheese, Salsa Roja, Cilantro to the melt-in-your-mouth filet mignon. “My first bite is always the introduction to my strong and intense flavours… it sets the rhythm and the bar for the rest of the evening… You get to understand my personality through that first bite: passionate, seasoned, creative…,” Masson-DuCeppe shared with
Thursday Food on Friday, July 19, inside the JA Food + Drink Kitchen.

Up next was the 15-hour Potato Smoked Marlin Mousse, another tasty mouthfeel that solicited raised eyebrows and expressions of delight. There was little doubt that Chef came to throw down! The menu composition piqued our interest. Our response came as Chef Masson-DuCeppe made the rounds: “I have defined, in my 18 years of cooking, a menu layout that allows me to offer different techniques, textures, temperatures, etc. My own definition of what a multiple-course menu should be is to offer the best culinary experience. Courses are selected to constantly amuse the palate in different ways. I always showcase: A strong first amuse-bouche, a vegetable dish, a ‘crudo’ dish, a pasta dish, a meat dish, a fish dish, and a sweet creation. This menu layout is inspired by a big Sunday feast in a traditional Italian family,” he said.

It certainly was akin to a Sunday feast! Thursday Food, however, was forced to leave behind a fair amount of the handmade spaghetti in order to enjoy the filet mignon with the ackee and bone marrow emulsion, a genius substitute for pâté fois gras.

The six courses closed with Mango and Jackfruit Pavlova with Vanilla Chantilly and closing words from the chef. “I am representing different international techniques that I have learnt in my career… Always working with seasonal local ingredients, I want to showcase and pay homage to local products that fascinate me… to try and change the mentality of what can be created with the beautiful resources of the island.

“Taking ingredients that locals have grown up eating but presenting it in a different way. I want to offer different ways to bring back flavours, memories, but served in a special creative way… to elicit the comment of ‘Oh I would never have thought of this’!”

Reimagining is always a good thing when done with reverence and humility and Chef Mathieu understands this only too well. Indeed, his wine pairing was based on his sommelier course from the ITHQ, and help from wine buff Bobby Stewart. But the final pairing boiled down to his personal preference. “I pair wine on how I like to eat and drink!” he shared.

And on that note we, like everyone else, applauded Chef on a wonderful wine-paired dinner.

Editor’s Note: A separate article is promised on Masson-DuCeppe’s masterful use of salt.