In the heart of Argentina’s Córdoba province, where the Sierras Chicas meet the horizon, lies a winery that is rewriting the country’s winemaking narrative. Achala Bodega Exótica, nestled at an altitude of over 1,100 metres above sea level, is not just another vineyard but rather a testament to innovation, resilience, and the unyielding pursuit of quality in an unexpected terroir. As Argentina’s wine industry continues to flourish, with Mendoza and Patagonia dominating the conversation, Achala Bodega Exótica has emerged, proving that Córdoba’s rugged landscapes can yield wines of extraordinary character.

The story of this winery is inseparable from its founders whose vision was buoyed by an unrelenting passion for viticulture. It was founded in 2009 by Walter Sinay who partnered with renowned soil expert Pedro Parra and Italian winemaker Alberto Antonini, who identified the unique potential of the Traslasierra Valley in Córdoba, Argentina. The area was recognised for its exceptional winemaking potential due to its exotic calcareous granite terroir, which then resulted in this tripartite collaboration establishing Achala Bodega Exótica, focusing on producing distinctive wines from this unique region. Unlike the established vineyards of Mendoza, Córdoba’s rocky soils, unpredictable weather patterns, and a history largely untapped by modern viticulture was quite daunting. But these very challenges became the foundation for Achala’s philosophy: Crafting wines that embody the purity and resilience of their environment.

Once a significant winemaking region during Argentina’s colonial era, Córdoba’s viticultural identity faded into obscurity with the rise of Mendoza’s mass production. However, in recent years, boutique wineries like Achala have spearheaded a quiet revolution, reviving the region’s potential through sustainable and small-scale production. The Sierras Chicas, with their dramatic shifts in temperature and mineral-rich soils, provide a unique canvas for winemaking, distinct from the warmer, lower-altitude regions that dominate Argentina’s output. In fact, Achala’s vineyards benefit from a combination of high altitude, well-drained granitic soils, and cool mountain breezes: factors that contribute to producing wines of remarkable elegance, fresh acidity, and nuanced complexity.

Unlike Mendoza’s Malbecs, which tend toward ripe fruit and bold tannins, Achala’s expressions are leaner, with pronounced minerality and a refined structure. The winery’s commitment to organic farming and minimal intervention winemaking ensures that each bottle authentically reflects its environment. As would be expected, this commitment to the production of high quality, unique varietals has not gone unnoticed. Esteemed wine publications, including Decanter and Wine Spectator, have awarded high scores to its Malbec and Syrah, praising their distinctiveness and balance. In 2023, their red blend also secured a gold medal at the Argentina Wine Awards, further cementing its status as a rising star in the industry.

Today, Thursday Food explores wines from Córdoba, Argentina featuring the varietals of Achala Bodega Exótica:

Achala Clos de la Roca Brava Sauvignon Blanc, a 100 per cent Sauvignon Blanc that defies expectations, is a clear and bright white wine, with a soft straw-yellow colour and greenish highlights. The wine exhibits agile movement in the glass and has oily-textured tears. On the nose, it exhibits elegant aromas of moderate intensity, featuring notes of freshly cut grass and citrus peels, set against a pronounced mineral backdrop. On the palate, it has a gentle entry with a medium body and lively progression. Citrus flavours dominate, complemented by refreshing acidity and a pleasant finish. The unique high-altitude terroir, characterised by calcareous granite soils, imparts qualities reminiscent of Sancerre Sauvignon Blancs from France’s Loire Valley.

Achala Clos de Molle Ingrato Malbec, a 100 per cent varietal, presents a more restrained, elegant profile than their Mendóza counterparts, typically known for their bold fruit and opulent body. This wine is clear and bright with a deep ruby-red colour and violet hues. It shows good weight in the glass, with dense, coloured tears indicating its youth. It expresses high-intensity aromas reminiscent of ripe red and black fruits, earthy notes, and a delicate toasted/smoky background imparted by French oak barrels, on the nose. In the mouth it has a gentle entry with good structure and a straightforward progression. Mature fruit flavours are perfectly integrated with the contributions from oak aging, resulting in a wine that has moderate alcohol, firm tannins, balanced acidity, and a long finish.

Achala Clos de Molle Ingrato Syrah, made from 100 per cent Syrah grapes, is clear and bright with a deep red-purple colour and violet hues. This Syrah shows good weight in the glass, with dense, coloured tears indicating its youth. It has high-intensity aromas on the nose, with clear notes of spices, such as clove and cinnamon, as well as dried fruits like raisins and figs, all harmoniously integrated with a vanilla background from the oak aging. Its dry entry into the mouth has good structure and a robust yet smooth progression. Mature fruit flavours are complemented by an intriguing balance of spicy and sweet sensations from the oak aging. This wine from Achala is a revelation, benefiting from Córdoba’s high-altitude climate, it has moderate alcohol, integrating tannins, balanced acidity, and a long finish.

Achala Valle de Traslasierra Blend de Historias (Story Blend) is a masterful blend of Malbec (60 per cent) and Syrah (40 per cent) that encapsulates Achala’s winemaking philosophy. This red blend is clear and bright, with a medium-depth Bordeaux colour, having an agile movement in the glass, with thin, lightly coloured tears. On the nose are aromas of good intensity and complexity, with earthy, herbal (wild herbs), and spicy notes. On the palate it has a dry entry with a medium body and a suggestive texture on the palate. The flavour is of ripe fruit, with perceptible (but not rough) tannins, balanced acidity, and good persistence.

Achala Bodega Exótica’s continued growth through innovation makes it more than a winery, but rather a movement and bold statement that Argentina’s vinous diversity extends beyond Mendoza and Patagonia. For wine enthusiasts seeking something new, this bodega offers a glimpse into the future of high-altitude winemaking in Córdoba. Whether visiting the vineyard, seeking out a bottle, or simply expanding one’s palate, discovering Achala Bodega Exótica’s is an invitation to embrace a bold new chapter in Argentina’s wine story. Salud!