It’s been a moment since Fromage co-principals Lisa-Gaye and Kirk Chin, known for their exceptional hosting skills, have welcomed loyal patrons turned friends to dinner. Truth be told, they wanted a not-so-typical event. Chef Mathieu Masson Duceppe, the acclaimed culinarian of Jellyfish Crudo et Charbon, two acclaimed Montreal eateries, was called. He was available. The Select Brands team was tasked to collaborate and present a fresh take on wine-paired dinner. The date decided upon was Thursday, March 27, invites were dispatched and responses in the affirmative returned fast and furious!

Attendees included Select Brands Co-Managing Director David McConnell and his wife, Corporate Marketing Manager Tania McConnell, the brand’s Commercial Manager Jaime Smith, Select Brands Luxury Portfolio Manager Debra Taylor-Smith, Jamaica Observer Table Talk Food Awards judge Professor Lloyd Waller, and Jamaica Pegasus General Manager Brian Sang.

The restaurant’s deck afforded the perfect meet-and-greet venue with guests imbibing Lychee and Lemon Drop Martinis. Formalities were few and limited to a brief welcome by CEO, Fromage Lisa-Gaye Chin, who thanked all for coming and expressed appreciation to the Select Brand crew for the range of wines that would perfectly complement Masson Duceppe’s menu offerings.

In the short time that he has been on island, Masson Duceppe has developed a cult-like following. His interpretation of local fare and ability to elevate cauliflower to extraordinary levels keeps many turning up wherever he heats the range. “We’re starting with classic dishes that I’ve cooked all over the world. Unanimously, all over the world, these were winners, so I decided to showcase the winners tonight, and the dishes that make people smile. So we have the amuse-bouche of Salmon Caviar Pani Puri, Smoked Marlin, Sour Cream with Russian condiments. The bread course of Pão de Queijo, Bone Marrow, Ackee-Egg Yolk Butter, Scotch Bonnet Jam, Scallion, (sheer genius and got rave reviews). There’s my Caesar, Cauliflower dish, which was kind of an homage to fried chicken; then my Handmade Cavatelli, Braised Oxtail, Wild Mushrooms, which is a staple of mine. Then we have a Seared Local Snapper, Mussel Escabeche, with Cherry Tomato Ragu, a nod to the Middle East. Finally, the meat: Crispy Pork Belly, Pumpkin Miso.

Dessert: Burnt Basque Cheesecake, Butterscotch, Plantain to finish,” shared Duceppe.

It was the perfect fusion of flavours, innovation and an exciting culinary journey with Masson Duceppe blending sweet, cold, hot, crispy, soft, comforting fare that left diners, in Deceppe’s words, “full and happy”.

Select Brands Luxury Portfolio Manager Debra Taylor-Smith, taking a cue from the menu’s eclectic fusion, eschewed the typical wine pairings, allowing guests to select at their whim and fancy. “Normally, we would have a pairing, course by course, but we’re doing it a little bit different tonight. So on your table you do have a beverage menu, and you are at liberty to choose which wine you would like to have with each course,” shared Taylor-Smith, to lusty applause.

“So, please take a look. We’re featuring wines from the house of Santa Margherita. They have a long, rich and celebrated history of making the number one-selling Pinot Grigio in the world… it is the standard by which Pinot Grigio is judged. Now, like it or not, the point is, it is really, really popular, and has a depth and complexity about it that the standard Pinot Grigio does not have. Feel free to challenge me on that,” added Taylor-Smith.

Also on the wine menu was a beautiful, delightfully crisp white: Sassoregale Vermentino and the Sassoregale Sangiovese which, per Taylor-Smith’s lesson, is “the grape in its true and natural form”. She described it as “light as a Pinot Noir”, with a little spice and a little more complexity.

“I urge you to sip around tonight and try all of them, don’t be shy, don’t be afraid. And if you wish to have a cocktail during the meal then you are able to do that too!

The not-so-typical Quinta de Vesuvio Port with flora aromas of lavender and rockrose, followed by exquisitely fresh, ripe red fruit extracts with cherry predominating and a long, seductive finish brought the evening to a close.

Port styles, according to Taylor Smith, have evolved and “they’re really interesting, and as they age, they get richer and nuttier, and just ‘delightful-er’. So I invite you to start experimenting with Ports”.

Thursday Food reckons that the laissez-faire approach to dining initiated by the team will not only encourage more innovation but hopefully, more tables turning.

Dinner opened with an amuse-bouche — Salmon Caviar Pani Puri, smoked marlin, sour cream, Russian condiments. (Photo: Karl Mclarty)