Trying to operate a 100 per cent wine bar in Jamaica is challenging – Jamaica is Rum Country. The many visitors to Bin 26 Wine Bar in Devon House do enjoy their experience, but every now and then you have a complaint from a non-wine drinker who wants a choice. So the wine bar has decided to add a ‘Sipping menu” which will include Scotch, Cognac and the finest rums from Jamaica and the rest of the Caribbean.

Last weekend David Morrison, Appleton Estate’s Senior Blender, was the host of a rum-tasting event at Bin 26 Wine Bar. David entertained guests through tasting the five aged rums in the Appleton product line beginning with the ever-popular Appleton Estate VX Jamaica Rum, then on to the Appleton Estate Reserve Jamaica Rum, Appleton Estate Extra 12-Year-Old Jamaica Rum, Appleton Estate Master Blenders’ Legacy, Appleton Estate 21-Year-Old Jamaica Rum.

Similar to wine

Each place setting at the tables included five small tasting glasses for each of the rums along with a glass of water for palete cleansing, all very similar to our wine-tasting layout; what was equally similar was the discussion of the process of making rum. The fact is that a great rum begins in the estates; and mention of the “terroir” ( a word that French winemakers use to describe the ‘somewhere-ness’ of their wines, which includes climate, soil, and winemaking practices) when describing the unique microclimate of the Nassau Valley made us all realise the similarities between the world of rums and the world of wines. The amount of rainfall and exactly when it falls are important factors when growing the sugar cane in preparation for making rum.

David described in detail the fermentation, distillation, aging and blending processes with ownership and passion. The pot stills at Appleton are unique, they impart a very distinctive character to their rums. Appleton distils its rums using the traditional small-batch distillation method that has been handed down since inception.

Sipping rum

The tasting process is also the same as wine – the five “S” process. SIGHT: first you look at the rum to assess its colour and clarity. The colour indicates its oak-aging time. SWIRL: swirling the rum in the glass will form legs running down the side of the glass. Light-bodied rums will have thin “legs” that move quickly. Medium and full-bodied rums will have thick “legs” that move slowly. Medium and full-bodied rums have been aged for long periods of time. SMELL: Smelling or nosing the rum , as with wine, is the most important step in the assessment. We were all asked to pick up the glass and inhale, deeply, exhale, and then inhale picking up all the aromas of each of the five Appleton Estate Jamaica aged rums we had in front of us. SIP: We cannot forget that we are here to drink the stuff. Our instructions were to pick up the glass, take a sip and gently swirl it around in our mouth letting our tongue sense all of the complexities. A few of us tried to do a deeper analysis by doing our usual wine retro-nasal breathing technique with varying results, as the alcohol content was much higher than we are used to compared to that of wine. Swallow or spit then SAVOUR the aftertaste or finish – which is the lasting impression that the rum leaves on the palate after it has been swallowed. All of the rums were tasted neat.

Appleton Estate Aged Rums

(VX) The Appleton Estate VX Jamaica Rum is a blend of 15 aged rums. It is brilliant gold with light spice and citrus notes on the nose with balanced flavours of orange peel and dried fruits. An excellent mixing rum.

(RESERVE) The Appleton Estate Reserve Jamaica Rum is blend of 20 aged rums and can be for sipping or used to make higher-end cocktails. In our tasting glass this rum appeared to have a bright honey colour, on the nose we got some vanilla and delicate sugar notes. An elegant rum on the palate with almond notes and a long tangy finish.

(EXTRA)The Appleton Estate Extra 12-Year-Old Jamaica Rum is where it got very interesting. We learnt that once an age is listed on the bottle, our laws state that the youngest rum used in the blend must have been aged in oak barrels for a least the number of years that is stated on the label. A bronze-coloured rum with notes of vanilla and nutmeg on the nose. On the palete this rum went down smooth and buttery with delicate creamy finish. Yum.

What appears to be one of the favourites of the evening was The Appleton Estate Master Blenders’ Legacy which was created to celebrate 3 generations of blenders. Owen Tulloch — Master Blender, 1988 – 1996, Joy Spence- Master Blender– 1997 to present and our host David Morrison — Senior Blender Appleton Jamaica Rum. The heart of this rum is a 30-year-old rum. Topaz was one description of the colour, on the nose was an array of tropical fruits and nuts. This rum was very smooth going down, showing great balance, culminating in a long finish with highlights of tangerine skin.

The rare and highly prized Appleton Estate 21-Year-Old Jamaica Rum, ‘ the blue’, closed the night. A snifter rum, a collector’s rum compared to the finest brandies for the enjoyment it gives to those lucky enough to find a bottle. Tarnished Copper, vanilla, nuts, dried fruit and some orange peel on the nose. On the palete the oak is present, making a strong statement along with some nuttiness with finishes long and supple. A fantastic rum.

The patrons thoroughly enjoyed the evening and the representatives from Appleton Estate are asking us to organise another date. A few Jamdammers tickets went unused after this fine event.

Cheers! Now go forth and try sipping a few Appleton Estate Aged Rums today.

Chris Reckord is an independent wine consultant. He and his wife Kerri-Anne are part-owners of Jamaica’s only Wine Bar – Bin26 Wine Bar in Devon House, Kingston. Please send your questions and comments to creckord@gmail.com . Follow Chris on twitter.com/DeVineWines