A simple but elegant cream sauce highlights the buttery flavour of salmon. Since the heat from the sauce and the pasta will further cook the salmon, be sure to start out with fish that is not overcooked; in fact, it is best if it is slightly underdone. Though Italian pasta purists frown at coupling fish with cheese, good Parmesan complements salmon. Small portions of this very rich dish are appropriate.

Cook the pasta in four quarts boiling water until about 12 minutes for dried and two minutes for fresh.

Meanwhile, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a sauce pan or skillet over medium heat. Add the peas and sauce until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes for fresh peas and 1 minute for thawed. Add the remaining 6 tablespoons butter and the cream, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the butter melts. Add the salmon, 1/2 cup of the Parmesan, and salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste. Simmer until the cheese melts and the salmon is heated through, about 2 minutes; do not allow to boil.

12 ounces fresh or dried cappellini, linguinim spaghettini, or other thin pasta

1/4 pound (1 stick) unsalted butter

1 cup fresh shelled petite peas or thawed frozen petite peas

1 cup heavy (whipping) cream

2 cups (about 12 ounces) flaked cooked salmon

1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano Reggiano

Salt

Freshly ground white pepper

Freshly grated nutmeg

1/4 cup minced fresh parsley, preferably flat-leaf Italian type

Serves three or four as a main course, 6 as a starter.