There was no way that we could have spoken about the amazing duck bread and Gene Anderson’s gungo peas soup in the same column, so, having almost lost the taste of that wonderful soup (we savoured it for as long as possible) it’s now time to break off a bit more of Jack’s duck bread.

We placed our own order (albeit late) for a six-pound show bread with the personable Monica Chambers and begged her to shed some light on the history of this amazing bread. Thursday Food was introduced to baker, owner and showman extraordinaire, Jackson Hoo.

Hoo, originally from St Elizabeth was schooled in St James up to age 15. “I moved to Kingston and started to work at Newmarket Bakery and then Hannah Town Bakery where my brother Vincent (now deceased) was the foreman. I was the assistant foreman. These were the 50s. I would marvel at the workers with 20 and 30 years of experience. It was all manual then. We’re talking about brick ovens and mixing many bags of flour with kerosene cans of water.”

Hoo not only met the duck bread but the mongoose bread, the cross, the bible, the alligator and the crown. “These were all occasion breads. The mongoose bread used to cost six pence. I was fascinated by the workers and the work. I knew that I could create an even better- looking product. I was given a chance and never looked back.” Hoo breaks into laughter as he recalls the tea meetings held at private homes. The toaster would create much excitement around-this ‘show-piece’ often hidden under a tea towel. He recollects some of these verses “Orange in England one for a penny…Queen Victoria reigned for many years.” There’d be much cheering and then the toaster would drop some more lines. “If anyone should touch my lover I’d stab the bugger.” These guys, according to Jackson Hoo, were as ‘bad’ as Miss Lou.

The occasion breads were also popular at Pocomania revivals. Hoo remembers the very long tables spread with white tablecloths, on which white roses, fruits (all kinds) and breads were displayed. There would be much drumming. A ring would be formed and the dancers would circle the table.

“These breads were also used as money-making ventures,” continues Hoo. “Money would be thrown to see and taste the various types of bread on display.”

The dough has been rolled by Jackson Hoo from Hannah Town to Greenwich Street, Trench Town to Gordon Town to its final location at Red Hills Road.

Do not for a moment think that this is where the story ends, for this tasty bread has been broken at the United Nations and there was Champion Bakery in the ’70s and Jamaican Pride at Flatbush Avenue.

It has been quite a journey from Pink Lane and Spanish Town Road where Jackson Hoo sold his first bread. An amazing tale of bread once brushed with water to create a spectacular sheen and texture like silk. “Nowadays,” says Hoo, “it’s all about additives, vegetable oil and butter, fancy machines,and proper oven temperatures.” We understand and share in his nostalgia but are secretly glad that we are able to break a piece of this formidable history.

Show Bread Trivia

A duck bread today costs $400. In the ’50’s and ’60’s the cost was 20-25 shillings.

What goes into an occasion bread?

Baking flour, yeast, sugar (not too much as it will make the bread brown), salt (40 lbs of water to a pound of salt)

The weight of our $400-bread is 6 lbs.

It’s baked at 400ºF for two hours. The temperature is reduced to 350ºF after about an hour.