In Ibiza’s kitchen
It may not have the same ‘gourmet’ ring as eating freshly grilled dourade, drizzled with freshly pressed, extra virgin olive oil in the golden fields of Tuscany, or Chateaubriand accompanied by a rich Merlot and drenched in romance, in the ‘City of Lights’, but eating in Ibiza has a ring that invites foodies, and ‘wannabe’ gourmands to dance to their own tune.
It is an experience that cannot be pinned down, but one that sways to the chilled-out vibes of Café del Mar with a glass of rosé in one hand, while the other indulges in a luxurious paella, the colour of sunflowers.
Ibiza’s cuisine, like the island itself, is steeped in ethnic diversity and history. Having drawn an intricate mélange of people to the island the typical regional Balearic cuisine is heavy with Arabic, African, European and Oriental influences. While many have commented that the Balearic cuisine has never been truly appreciated, dismissed as lacking a certain refinement, it is the rawness and soulful simplicity that makes the cooking so unique. It is the freshness of the region’s seafood, fruits and vegetables that lends itself to creating dishes overflowing with flavour.
However, like in London, France, the United States and other gourmet destinations, it is a shift from strictly traditional cooking towards the growth of a more modern, hip and stylish dining ‘destination’ experience that has exploded in Ibiza, ensuring its position not only as a destination for hard-core clubbers and lovers of House music, but also for those wishing to indulge in fresh, Mediterranean flavours, many in breathtaking settings.
Following in the footsteps of destinations like Monaco, St Tropez, and Marbella, Ibiza has transformed into a summer playground for the rich and famous, an essential stop for the 200-foot yachts (some complete with helipads) sailing from Mediterranean-party-port, to party-port. And just like the itinerary that clubbers follow whilst in Ibiza – We Love Sunday’s at Space, Pacha’s Defected on Tuesday, and Cream Ibiza at Amnesia on Thursday – there now seems to be one (although not quite so set in stone) for the more ‘mature’ and seasoned restaurant and lounge circuit.
Daytimes are to be spent on one of Ibiza’s beautiful, white sand beaches. Some of the most popular line Ibiza’s southern coast: Las Salinas, Sa Caleta and Cala Jondal are home to some of the most stylish beach restaurants and lounges. Our beach itinerary started at Blue Marlin, a wonder in white, set on the sands of Cala Jondal. Once you step into Blue Marlin a sense of understated style and glamour wash over you. A chocolate brown, curved sofa is set into the trees, a stunning black chandelier hanging from its branches. All around diners are seated at simple wooden tables, set with white plates, sipping pitchers of sangria. A DJ deck is set up to the side, spinning the chilled vibes of soulful house.
After visiting Ibiza, it seems that man could live on bread alone. Well, this woman certainly could. Fresh baguettes, crispy on the outside and soft in the middle, dipped in aioli or fresh olive oil, alongside juicy Mediterranean olives. There was barely any room left for the garlic-infused linguine with clams.
Another hit at Blue Marlin was the deconstructed Salade Niçoise, with a juicy fillet of tuna served beautifully pink, and the rich creamy lobster ravioli. After copious amounts of sangria and bread, retire to the circular lounge beds on the beach, the perfect place to watch the sunset.
Situated next to Blue Marlin, is the more traditional, and family-oriented Tropicana. Again, it was a lunch of more sangria – this time with the cava instead of red wine, a refreshing and lighter twist to the traditional red wine-based sangria – and bread with aioli. This time however, we indulged in traditional paella with fish and seafood. Named for the Catalan word for ‘frying pan’, the paella was served tableside, with oversized mussels, shrimp, squid and fish atop the saffron-infused rice.
Away from the beaches, the restaurants continued to impress. However, the most memorable meal was Sa Capella in Sant Antoni. Set in an old monastery, the room with its exposed brickwork and overhanging beams, cosy little alcoves and chandeliers was enough to create a memorable evening.
But the meal elevated it to the next level, known especially for their fresh fish, specifically the whole baked sea bream packed and baked in Ibiza’s most famous export: salt. Another delicacy was the ox steak. Now, I have to say that when our waiter approached the table with a plate covered in thin slices of raw meat, eyes were opened wide, but when he returned with a hot rock, layered in rock salt and began to sear the meat, there was a sigh of relief. Not knowing ox meat (other than oxtail, and whether this can be called ‘meat’ is questionable) we were surprised by its tenderness, the small slices bursting with flavour, released especially by the hot rock salt. And of course, the meal was signed, sealed and delivered, with a shot of the Ibizan herbal liqueur, hierbas.
For all around experience, KM5 is a must. Set literally in an enchanted garden, surrounded by Bedouin tents, oversized pillows, low tables, candles – which proved incredibly useful when there was a power cut – and quintessential ambient music playing in the background, KM5 is the perfect spot to eat some great food and follow it up by lounging in a tent, smoking on a hookah pipe.
Again, the fish here is excellent – though not as fresh and tender as that at Sa Capella – and so incredibly simple. With such top-notch quality in freshness, the flavour lies not so much in the seasonings, but in the fish itself. Drizzled lightly with olive oil, and a sprinkling of pepper, the dish is complete. Another must-try is the duck confit served with a creamy potato gratin, perfectly cooked: crispy on the outside and the deep pink meat inside was rich with flavour.
Bambuddha Grove is another essential stop. With lounges, gallery, tantric sex shop and jewellery store, food aside, it is a destination in itself. While the food was excellent, specifically the sea bass curry which brimmed with coconut, lemongrass and the subtlest kick of spice, and the poppy seed encrusted lamb served with quinoa and mango, the décor in the dining room was somewhat jarring.
With high ceilings, and too much fluorescent lighting, the atmosphere was not as intimate as it should have been. That’s purely an aside though, as the food will distract you from the extra brightness. Note: When reading the menu, be sure to read the ‘advice’ at the bottom of each page. It will be cause for some very interesting conversations.
Ibiza lends itself to a diverse dining scene, creating dishes that not only emanate from the island’s origins, but the international set that invades each year (estimated at about one million). And no worry about the calories, you can dance those off in the club, until dawn.