Escoffier – King of Chefs and Chef of Kings
A salute to Auguste Escoffier was the theme selected by culinary consultant and stylist Ardelle Dalla Costa and the team at the Terra Nova All-Suite Hotel for The Regency’s Chaîne des Rôtisseurs members- only dinner held on Saturday, March 1. Escoffier (1846-1935) was a French chef, restaurateur and culinary writer who contributed tremendously to the world of French cuisine and also provided the foundation for how professional kitchens operate.
A few different stories exist about how he became known as “King of Chefs and Chef of Kings.” According to Wikipedia, Escoffier met Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1913 on board the SS Imperator, one of the largest ocean liners of the Hamburg-Amerika Line. Escoffier was charged with supervising the kitchens on board the Imperator during the Kaiser’s visit to France. One hundred and forty-six German dignitaries were served a large multi-course luncheon, followed that evening by a monumental dinner that included the Kaiser’s favourite strawberry pudding. The Kaiser was so impressed that he insisted on meeting Escoffier after breakfast the next day, where, as legend has it, he told Escoffier, “I am the Emperor of Germany, but you are the Emperor of Chefs.” This was quoted frequently in the press, further establishing Escoffier’s reputation as France’s pre-eminent chef. Escoffier produced a number of publications, but it is Le Guide Culinaire that immediately comes to mind for many, as it is still used as a major reference work, both in the form of a cookbook and a textbook on cooking.
Executive Chef Kenard Swaby re-created a number of classic Escoffier dishes including the excellent first course: a plate consisting of classic French hors d’oeuvres: Gribiche, Porc Rillette, Boudin Blanc, Mousse de Saumon Froid, Gougère and a most interesting and delicious Egg Benedictine. This dish was served with the delicate and elegant Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Reserve. Here are the other wines and dishes that we had:
Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Village 2011
The 2011 harvest was thought to be in jeopardy with three times as much rain as normal, but it has turned out to be another very good year on the heels of the great last three vintages. The Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Village is a crisp, fruit-forward and juicy wine; it has expressive aromas and flavours of ripe red berries, with nice heft in the mouth, and mineral and spice notes. This wine paired very nicely with the Consommé.
Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé 2011
Served with the Fillet de Sole Daumont was a delicious Pouilly-Fuissé made with 100% Chardonnay. In southern Burgundy, at the northern border of Beaujolais, lies the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. The judicious, subtle use of oak allows Louis Jadot’s Pouilly-Fuissé to retain its complexity and structure. This Pouilly-Fuissé has emerald-gold tones which visually suggest a wine of finesse and distinction. With aromas of hazelnuts, toasted almonds, grapefruit and lemon, the wine has palate flavours that are harmonious, fresh and full.
Chateau Mont-Redon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2009
The big wine for the evening was made with 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 8% Mourvèdre, 2% Cinsault, Counoise, Mouscardin, Vaccarèse and Terret Noir. This deep purple wine has ripe black fruit aromas offset by notes of spice, leather, coffee and pepper. Rich, intense fruit, licorice and spice flavours are set in a firm yet ripe tannic structure with a complex finish. This powerful bottle is capable of long ageing. The Chateau Mont-Redon Chateauneuf-du-Pape paired exceptionally well with the Rib of Lamb, mint-flavoured red wine reduction and Bernaise sauce
Due to the previous excellent dining experience at The Regency, this unprecedented members-only Chaîne des Rôtisseurs dinner was fully booked out within hours of its announcement. Our hosts Michelle Hussey, Maitre Hotelier, General Manager; Ardelle Dalla Costa, culinary consultant and stylist; Keddy Marshall, Food and Beverage Manager, and Kenard Swaby Executive Chef did a fantastic job with this event and patrons danced into the wee hours of the morning in the Regency Bar and Lounge. A really great time was had by all.
Christopher Reckord – Businessman, Entrepreneur & Wine Enthusiast. Send your questions and comments to creckord@gmail.com. Follow me on twitter: @Reckord