Mad About Morocco
One never has to do much to convince me to take out my passport and get on a plane, so when the call came for a road trip to Morocco, I did not need to be asked twice, even though it was a journey of more than half-a- day from Barbados – it certainly was not the longest road trip I had ever made, but for sure it would rank up there amongst the more exotic.
Morocco should be on everyone’s bucket list. One of the most diverse countries in Africa, it is a flavourful melting pot of Berber-Arab-Mediterranean and French cultures which pepper its customs, music, language, cuisine, clothing and lifestyle. With landscapes that are positively breathtaking and as vividly coloured as the patterned rugs one lusts after in the ancient souks, it is nestled between the snowy peaks of the High Atlas and Rif mountains, soft Sahara dunes and a rugged North Atlantic coastline.
The iconic 1943 Humphrey Bogart film Casablanca, put the country on everyone’s radar, but for me Marrakech is the gold standard of this ancient civilisation bursting with Magrebi mystique and imbued with the exquisite traditions of nomads and traders stretching back centuries. A chaotic city, that is a great mix of the exotic and the familiar, it is delimited by three great landmarks – the Koutoubia mosque, from where the call to prayer can be heard emanating five times a day, a constant reminder if one ever forgets that you are in a Muslim country, the hypnotic grand spectacle of Marrakech’s Djemaa el Fna upon which UNESCO has bestowed world heritage status, and the ancient Medina, the fortified walled city with its labyrinth of winding streets. Marrakech is certainly exotic, sometimes overwhelming and always unexpected. So it was to this ancient city of bazaars and snake charmers, Berber artifacts and nomads that I journeyed, as the British Polo Day once again set foot on the Moroccan plains.
The event took place at the exclusive Jnan Amar Polo Club for the benefit of the Eve Branson Foundation – under the High Patronage of His Majesty King Mohammed VI of Morocco. Sir Richard Branson and his gregarious 92-year-old mother, Eve Branson, were on hand to witness the event and also the generosity of the international “jet set”, as over US$215,000 was raised for her charity.
Travelling with Abercrombie & Kent, the British Polo Day itinerary took in some of the most spectacular corners of Marrakech, including a unique Land Rover Driving Experience through the Atlas Mountains visiting the Eve Branson Foundation’s project villages, the official launch party under the trees in the spa gardens of Royal Mansour and – on the eve of British Polo Day – a glamorous Medina Party spanning the myriad hidden courtyards, beautiful historic rooms and rooftop terrace of El Fenn, a boutique Riad in a traditional former palace.
On the day itself, VIPs and guests arrived in style at the exquisite Jnan Amar Polo Club, in a fleet of Range Rovers. Set in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, the Jnan Amar Polo Resort Marrakech is the first of its kind in North Africa. Its soon-to-be-launched Ritz-Carlton Private Residences offer a unique opportunity to live in the midst of this prestigious estate, while the Club’s superb new Ritz Carlton Hotel will open in 2017.
Despite our exotic location, the day had a quintessentially British flavour with a highly entertaining game of Brompton Bicycle Polo, as The British Exiles took on the Rest of the World team and saw Brompton’s Harry Scrope show the novices how it was done, while Jack Mann pulled off a spectacular tumble into the straw bale goal posts, ending the match in a 1 – 1 draw!
Meanwhile, Sir Richard Branson and his mother Eve whiled away the afternoon at the pitch-side Harrods Garden Party, while fellow guests posed for pictures with British Polo Day’s resident Harrods Green Man under the flower arch and sat for the brilliant caricaturist.
Lunch was served in the beautiful traditional Berber tents overlooking the polo field below, then guests watched the Royal Salute Eve Branson Commonwealth team take on their counterparts, Ritz-Carlton Jnan Amar Rest of the World. This proved to be a technical and evenly matched – game, which began with a great run by The Honourable Tristan Phillimore, who opened the account for Royal Salute. In response, Ritz-Carlton showed great prowess, with Rudolfo Ducos riding a fine line and scoring on two occasions as Lucas Tariditto ensured that the home team crept into the lead by 3 goals to 2 _ goals at half-time. The third and fourth chukka were equally eventful with clever play from Viscount Melville and Nacho Tejerina, in particular, but it was the home side Ritz-Carlton that ultimately rode to victory, winning 5 goals to 3 _.
At the official prize-giving overlooking the pitches below, the superb Frederic Scholl bespoke-commissioned Jnan Amar Challenge Cup was presented by Eve Branson to her team who were the runners-up, the Royal Salute Eve Branson Commonwealth team. The triumphant Ritz-Carlton Jnan Amar Rest of the World team then took to the podium to claim British Silverware’s Hackett Eve Branson Plate, proudly presented by Sir Richard Branson, Eve Branson, Founder of Jnan Amar Polo Club Amar Abdelhadi, Abdeslam Bikrat, the Wali of Marrakech and Mr Bethaoui (Governor of Haoz).
The Royal Salute Most Valuable Player, presented by Peter Prentice, was awarded to Nacho Tejerina of the Ritz-Carlton Jnan Amar Rest of the World team.
The evening’s Gala Dinner at Dar Soukkar, a historical 16th Century sugar factory, brought British Polo Day Morocco 2015 to a suitably glamorous close with a superb courtyard dinner under a million stars.
The dinner was followed by a rousing Royal Salute Quaich Experience where Peter Prentice invited all the ‘kilted men of Scotland’ to join him on stage and led a toast to Eve Branson with a ringing cry of Slangevar!
The Charity Auction — raising money for the Eve Branson Foundation, which supports education, employment and health care initiatives in remote Berber villages, as well as Jnan Amar’s children’s charity Ninos – was undoubtedly the highlight of the evening. With lots including a week on Sir Richard Branson’s private paradise, Necker Island, seven days on the edge of wildness at exclusive retreat Nihiwatu, Sumba; four nights at the Royal Mansour and, of course, a Brompton bicycle; bidding was fierce from all corners of the room, raising over US$215,000 for the two charitable causes – a record for British Polo Day.
Kicking off the after-party was a spectacular fashion show by Moroccan designer Frederique Birkmeyer, who regularly dresses Her Highness the Princess Lalla Hasna, first lady of The Moroccan Kingdom. Guests and VIPs then let their hair down at the after-party, celebrating a truly superb British Polo Day Morocco.
The following day, Sir Richard Branson and Eve Branson hosted the auction’s winning philanthropists at a private lunch at Kasbah Tamadot and a memorable game of doubles tennis!
British Polo Day
British Polo Day champions British Luxury Heritage. Founded in 2009 by Edward Olver and his friend Tom Hudson, the British Polo Day Global Series has grown to encapsulate a network of 10 annual events, spanning Abu Dhabi, Australia, China, Dubai, France, Germany, Great Britain, India, Mexico, Morocco, Russia, Singapore, Sumba Island (Indonesia), Thailand and the US. It is the only international polo network of its kind.
Jnan Amar Polo Resort Marrakech
Jnan Amar Polo Resort Marrakech is the first resort in North Africa dedicated to and designed around the sport of polo. The Jnan Amar Polo Resort is a large development that will include, in addition to the Jnan Amar polo club, two polo fields and equestrian centre, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Marrakech – will open opening in 2017. The polo resort will also include 85 Ritz-Carlton private residences that will be constructed and sold on freehold basis around the polo fields of which the launching of the sales for the first phase of villas began in April 2015.
Jnan Amar Polo Club has supported some of the most prestigious charity events, including Prince William’s Tusk Foundation in London and have participated in international tournaments including winning the St. Tropez polo trophy.
Eve Branson Foundation
The Eve Branson Foundation was established to support education, employment and health care initiatives in the rural villages of the High Atlas Mountains, surrounding the city of Marrakech. Since the beginning, the Foundation has been dedicated to enhancing living standards in some of the most impoverished communities; very often these villages lack even the most basic amenities, illiteracy can be as high as 98% and girls often leave school at 13 with very few prospects for their future.
The Berbers have a deep-rooted sense of community and traditions endure through their rich history. The Eve Branson Foundation works hand in hand with these special communities to help them thrive, preserving their unique Berber culture and providing opportunities for locals via long-term partnerships. Future projects are developed with the Berber people, involving them at every step to ensure the initiatives are authentic and sustainable.
RIADS
An ancient tradition with a modern application.
As one can imagine, the choice of places to stay in Marrakech is endless… but one way to really get the flavour of this magical city, is to stay within the walls of the old city in a traditional Riad.
The Riad is the traditional Moroccan house, normally of two or more stories built around a central Andalusian-style courtyard. Windows are minimal or non-existent on the exterior walls which typically were made of sun-baked mud brick or clay, reinforcing the inward focus and providing a haven of privacy away from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech and protection from the elements. The walls of the Riads are traditionally intricately adorned with tadelakt plaster and mosaic zellige tiles, usually with Arabic calligraphy of quotes from the Quran. In times gone by Riads were the stately city homes of the wealthiest citizens such as merchants and courtiers. Over the years many of them fell into disrepair, but recently there has been a wave of renovation, which has seen many of these often-crumbling buildings restored to their former glory as “boutique” hotels or restaurants.
There are over 800 Riads in Marrakech, the majority of which are located near the souks in the middle of the medina. So you could say one was spoilt for choice. Eventually I chose The Angsana Riads Collection, which is a part of the luxury Banyan Tree group of hotels. It comprises six beautifully restored 17th and 18th century Riads within walking distance of the famous Djemaa el Fna square and the fascinating mosques and Medersas of the city.
True to their historical past, the interior of the Riad was reminiscent of the grandeur of another era, with the customary pillared courtyard, hanging plants and intricate mosaic work. My room, which was the “penthouse” apartment, was certainly fit for a Berber Princess, with two en-suite bedrooms with walk-in closets, a luxurious living room and bar all naturally lit by a whimsical skylight. The interiors were a blend of the elaborate and the rustic; heavy mahogany furnishings, silk curtains, a contemporary four-poster bed in the master suite but with roughly hewn stone and tile floorings. The Riad also has a stylish rooftop restaurant with stunning views overlooking the Medina.
My personal favourite, of course, is the award-winning Angsana spa where I was able to relax and unwind with a dip in the refreshing plunge pool followed by a traditional Hammam experience and 90-minute Angsana Spa uplifting massage; after which I felt as though I was walking on air, and ready to tread the cobbles and take on the hubba bubba of the medina.
The city of Marrakech is mystical, and I certainly felt that staying at the Riad brought me within touching distance of that mystique.
