Restaurant-The River Café
Have you ever heard of ‘the overview effect?’ The life-changing perspective that astronauts get when they view the earth from outer space? The first time I heard about it, it fascinated me! It still does.
Have you ever heard of ‘the overview effect?’ The life-changing perspective that astronauts get when they view the earth from outer space? The first time I heard about it, it fascinated me! It still does.
It’s considered a state of mental clarity that astronauts are changed by, having had the privilege to see the earth from space. It’s an awed and visceral understanding of the big picture and a connectedness amongst all things, within life, leaving one with a sense of peace, unity and a deeper understanding of the wholeness of all things. It’s a powerful change in perspective that comes from having the opportunity to step outside and view something that offers a much different view than one gets being wrapped up and lost within it. Think of how you feel when you view a city from the window of the plane soaring above. It can be a humbling and comforting smallness.
When you’re living in the city, it can get so intense and overwhelming that this kind of perspective shift, one that gives you a sense of peace amidst everything, can be invaluable. This is why, on the night of my birthday, I wanted to go to the River Café on the Brooklyn waterfront. It always gives me a sense of peace to have this kind of tranquil, panoramic, all-encompassing view of the beloved Big Apple over dinner. And it somehow feels a little comforting to be a part of the restaurant’s iconic story.
The River Café is a historic spot, having been opened since 1977, and drawing more New Yorkers and visitors to Brooklyn than any entity since Coney Island, though it does not feel like your typical Hard Rock Café tourist spot! It’s Michelin-starred and boasts the title of having launched a thousand chefs. Apparently, no other American restaurant has produced as many world-class chefs as the River Café! So I think it’s fair to say it’s kind of a big deal.
But bells and whistles aside, apart from the view, what draws me to this spot is its underdog story. Its owner, Michael O’Keeffe, spent 10 years trying to acquire the spot when everyone advised him against it. Banks wouldn’t even give him loans for it! At that time, Brooklyn was immensely under-developed and no one was optimistic about its future. But he had fallen in love with the location, which, back then, didn’t seem like much, and wanted to create a dining experience that was “a peaceful and a very special place”.
He had that conviction and he saw it through. And eventually, the success of the River Café became the catalyst for the redevelopment of the Brooklyn waterfront. Isn’t that incredible?! (I’m inserting a very non-discreet hint here for people considering downtown Kingston’s waterfront.)
There’s a sort of relief you get when leaving the city. It feels like a bit of an escape. And when you drive over the glorious Brooklyn Bridge, you get a feeling of the powerfulness of mankind and what we can accomplish together. The River Café is nestled beneath the bridge. When you pull up to the restaurant, you see a little house sitting on the water. Strung lights everywhere are amidst bountiful green trees and hanging plants. White flowers overrun the space. Elegantly dressed doormen greet you to open your car door — a touch I have always loved. And as you enter the space, which is about the size of a cosy home, you feel at ease with nature and with beauty as the entrance is absolutely overrun with various soft-petal flora, all in white! The hostess then brings you through a narrow doorway, where you walk over a bridge about four feet long to get into the restaurant. This allows you to realise you’re actually now within the space directly on the water.
Live piano music welcomes you as you step into a breathtaking panoramic view of the vibrant concrete jungle from which you have just retreated. Now for dinner!
AMBIENCE/ATMOSPHERE:
5 stars. Man, talk about a risk paying off! The view is one massive thing, but there’s also just something about being directly on the water. It always amazes me how one single thing, like a view, can dictate your entire dining experience. I’m always reminded of this at Strawberry Hill, one of my favourite treats to really enjoy someone’s company over dinner. O’Keeffe went for “a peaceful and a special place”, and those are the exact words I would use to describe it. It sort of simulates a tiny fraction of the overview effect for city dwellers, who see the city from the outside and can appreciate its magnificence in totality from that unusual perspective. By the end of dinner, after having taken this in for a few hours, it felt really surreal to be a part of that.
The River Café is consistently voted Most Romantic Restaurant across America. They really amplify the view and the romance by seating you both side by side, facing out, so you can share the amazing view together and in very close proximity! When you and your date are both in such a grounded mood, it’s so much easier to connect in a more meaningful way. I also like the feel of the soft and feminine décor!
CREATIVITY: 5 stars. I do love their pairings. Ginormous shrimp with crab and a fluffy citrus hollandaise sauce. Oxtail with black truffles and tortellini. Squid ink cavatelli pasta with the lobster dish, which also comes with a side of lobster claw spinach gratin. They serve the Colorado rack of lamb with Swiss chard cannelloni, Sicilian pistachio and arugula pesto, and a wonderful touch was the whipped ricotta. You get a basil aioli with the crab cakes and they use a uni vinaigrette on the salad. You get the idea! It feels very luxurious and classic.
PRESENTATION: 5 stars. I think every single thing was plated beautifully. It somehow makes you eat more slowly and forces you to take a closer look at the food. Which sort of makes you enjoy the meal and the dining experience even more.
FOOD: 4 stars. I’m just gonna let you know, once I see the word oxtail on a menu, I’m like “Awoah! Dat me ah seh!” We had the chestnut and caramelised Cipollini onion tortellini with tender Barolo-braised oxtails, Delicata squash purée and fresh black Perigord truffles. A moment of silence for this dish, please. It was absolutely spectacular! (Thank God there were no bones! Because to suck the bones or to not suck the bones and hold onto my pride would have been a very, very serious internal dilemma!) One of my favourite dishes on their menu is the “Oscar style” pacific blue shrimp with king crab meat, white asparagus and citrus Maltaise sauce. Gosh – it is perfection! The shrimp with the crab is so light and meaty and that airy citrus Maltaise sauce brings the flavour of the seafood out in the most amazing way! The only drawbacks: I thought their desserts weren’t spectacular, and my lobster dish wasn’t as good as it has been before. But hey! Sometimes, a suh it guh!
SERVICE: 4 stars.
Excellent service. Knowledgeable, attentive and friendly staff.
PRICE: 3 stars. I think it’s very overpriced at $120 for three courses and $150 for a six-course tasting menu. So I wouldn’t recommend going often. But in fairness to them, the seating is very limited, especially considering their prominence, so I imagine it’s priced to crowd control. Plus, the view is worth it for a special occasion or for a one-of-a-kind date night.
OVERALL: A classic New York favourite since 1977, and I can see why! “Across a river, over a bridge, into a dream.” Go if you feel to have a magical, whimsical sort of evening and if you’d like to take in the baby version of the astronaut’s overview effect! It’s wonderfully unique. Women, you’ll love it! Men, your women will love it!