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Talk of the Town: where The Past Dictates the Future
Each course had its own music, visuals and lighting. Seated at this fun table were (from left) : Edward Khoury, ReneeMenzies-McCallum, Drs Leon and Marian Vaughan, Kristina Kerr, Melissa Hendrickson, Michael McGrane and KateHendrickson. (Photos: Garfield Robinson
Lifestyle, Local Food, Local Lifestyle, Thursday Food, Tuesday Style
with Christopher Reckord  
December 27, 2017

Talk of the Town: where The Past Dictates the Future

At The Wine Rack

There are few events curated by organisations with the express purpose of preserving the camaraderie and pleasures of the table and promoting excellence in all areas of the hospitality arts. The gastronomic society known as the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is the only one of its kind in Jamaica that has been hosting some of the most remarkable dining affairs across the island for over 30 years.

This month, the Jamaica Pegasus hotel returned to host the society’s 2017 induction event after a break of a few decades. Group Director, Marketing & Sales Nicola Madden-Greig and General Manager Peter Hilary worked closely with their respected Executive Chef Mark Cole to create, theme and deliver a menu befitting the special event. This year, 10 new members were inducted into the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs and three new members into the Société Mondiale du Vin, a sub-organisation whose focus is the appreciation of wine and crafted beverages. We were joined by our new Caribbean Bailli Provincial Alan Feuerstein, who served as inducting officer for the evening, and his wife Rayna as our special guests.

Jamaica as a World Gastronomy Destination

This dinner’s theme might be somewhat connected to our Government’s mission, through the Ministry of Tourism, to position the island as a recognised contributor to the global culinary environment. Madden-Greig, one of our hosts, chairs the Gastronomy Network of the Tourism Linkages Programme set up to drive the hospitality sector. I doubt that any chef in Jamaica has hosted as many world leaders, including a sitting US president, as Executive Chef Mark Cole. Chef Cole has been on a personal mission to take Jamaican gastronomy to the next level through his passionate involvement with the Culinary Federation of Jamaica and with events around the theme “Beyond Jerk”. It might be against that backdrop that this induction event was aptly themed “The Past Dictates the Future”, a culinary journey celebrating the future of Jamaican cuisine.

The Past Dictates…

After the induction ceremony in the Legacy Suite, guests were invited up to the Talk of the Town on the 17th floor, where they were given a history lesson on the Jamaican foods that were most sought-after in the late 1800s when Jamaica held The Great Jamaica Exhibition of 1891, an event that was billed “the most extraordinary commercial event in the history of the Gulf of Mexico and the West Indies”. The video presentation informed us that in those days the Black Land Crab was described by commentators as “the most savoury and delicious morsel in nature” and even “the greatest delicacy in the world” ( Jamaican Food, B W Higman). This significant inspiration led to our first course of Black Land Crab and Goat Cheese Kibbie. Six delectable courses followed, each accompanied by a range of carefully selected wines. They included Pascal Jolivet Attitude 2015, Sauvignon Blanc, Loire, France; Whispering Angel Rosé 2016, Provence, France; ZD Pinot Noir 2014, Carneros, California, USA; Miòl Prosecco Brut NV, Treviso DOC, Italy; Grgich Hills Merlot, 2013, Napa, California, USA; Thomas Barton Réserve Sauternes 2013, Bordeaux, France.

My Favourite Wines

I really loved the ZD Pinot Noir. ZD Wines has been producing Pinot Noir every year since 1969. This highly acclaimed, multi-award-winning wine was made with 100% certified, organically grown Pinot Noir grapes. With its dark cherry aromas, this Pinot has a bit more power than most. Aged for 10 months in French oak, you taste the rich red fruit supported by hints of cedar, vanilla and spice.

The Grgich Hills Merlot, another favourite, is rich and powerful. I whispered to my wife that this Merlot was very “cab-ish” with firm tannins, very powerful but balanced. With 18 months on French oak, it was bottled in April 2015 and released to the market in January 2017. This wine will only get better with age.

Vive la Chaîne!

Christopher Reckord – Information Technology Entrepreneur, Wine Enthusiast and Vice Echanson- Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Bailliage de la Jamaïque. Send your questions and comments to creckord@gmail.com. You can also follow me on Facebook, Instagram @chrisreckord and on Twitter: @Reckord

Thispleasantbubbly wasserved withcourse4 – IslandSpicedSalmon.
This refreshing sancerre was served withCourse #1 the Black Land Crab and Goat CheeseKibbie. (Photos: Garfield Robinson)
Sweet withsweet alwaysworks! TheSauterne wentwell with theJerk Panna Cottaand Rum-InfusedBread Pudding.
Always a crowdfavourite, this veryrefined juicy roséaccompanied Course#2 – The River MulletConsommé.
My favourite course of theevening, the Grilled Lobster Tail,simmered in yam and coconutrundown and coated withcassava and Béarnaise sauce,was ably supported by theWilliam Fevre Chablis.
One of my favourites of the evening, thispowerful Pinot Noir, was paired with theBraised Pigeon and Crackling Duck Salad
The evening’s sommelier was Select Brands Trade DevelopmentManager Debra Taylor. Delighted to see her was Robert Hoehener,managing director, Arosa Group of Companies.
Melting Pot:Jerk Panna Cotta and Rum-Infused Bread PuddingJerked panna cotta filled with Blue Mountain wild cocoa, served with deepfried Cerasee blossom and bread pudding in a rum cream reduction.
Africa Notes:Suckling pig rib crusted withJamaican French thyme,settled on mango chili sauce,infused with a ribena fuméserved with apple, sweet potatopancake and a purple microgreen Johnnie Walker vinaigrette
New Beginnings:Dandelion and Coolie Plum Sorbet with sous-vide cinnamon pineapple
West Indian Connection:Grilled Lobster Tail RundownGrilled lobster tail simmered in yam and coconut rundown coatedwith cassava and Béarnaise sauce.
Asian Calling:Island Spiced SalmonGravlax with Otaheite Apple,Seaweed Moss and WasabiJackfruit Cream, Balsamicand Tomato Caviar
British Game:Braised Pigeon andCrackling Duck SaladBraised pigeon withwild orange confit,alfalfa and duckcrackling salad,topped with a friedquail egg
Two Worlds Meet:River Mullet ConsomméJamaican River Mulletswirled in a chicken-footand saffron consomméwith curry chicken harddoughbread ravioli.
Black Crab NestBlack Land-Crab and Goat Cheese Kibbie served ina rustic plantain nest drizzled with a sorrel, gingerglaze and topped with kale chips
Getting ready to sit at their table were (from left), Alexx Antaeus, Grace Nash, StevenMarston, Celeste and Roderick Gordon and Richard and Shereen Simpson.
Seven of the 10 new inductees. Front row: Odetta Rockhead-Kerr (left) Chef Fredrick Gayle and ShereenSimpson. Back row: Phillip Kerr, Alexx Antaeus, Richard Simpson and Edward Khoury
Pre-dinnercocktailCrispy Pig Earstopped with anenergy salad andspicy mangovinaigrette
Thanks to the host for the evening: Chambellan Provencial & Bailli for Jamaica Derek Elder (left) and our new Caribbean Bailli Provincial AlanFeuerstein (right) presented a special Chaîne des Rôtisseurs plaque to (from left) General Manager of the Jamaica Pegasus Peter Hilary, GroupDirector, Marketing & Sales Nicola Madden-Greig and Executive Chef Mark Cole (Photos: Garfield Robinson)
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