Inspired by the adventures of the original owner of Devon House, the Steak House on the Verandah feted members of the local chapter of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs to a fantastic evening of gastronomic delights appropriately titled “The Modern Taste of George Steibel’s Journey”.

Hosts for this elegant affair were Steak House on the Verandah founder Marilyn Burrowes; Gregory Burrowes, master meat crafter; and Executive Chef Alex D-Great.

On arrival guests were greeted with flutes filled with GH Mumm Grand Cordon Brut Champagne — a delicious, delicate Champagne of elegant acidity and crisp structure. Teasing the taste buds for what was to come included: Scallop & Bratwurst — butter seared scallop with curry pork sausage; oxtail patty with butter bean salsa — pulled oxtail meat stuffed in a flaky dough crust with butter bean salsa; and some very tasty crab cakes made with lump crab meat loaded with island flavours and avocado mousse.

DISHES INSPIRED BY STEIBEL’S TRAVELS

Having read the book Devon House Families which contains a fascinating chapter on the life of George Steibel, Jamaica’s first black millionaire who built Devon House in 1881, I was eager to see and more importantly taste the culinary inspiration created by Chef Alex D-Great; he did not disappoint. Dishes and names highlighted the very exciting adventures of Steibel, which should be made into a movie and include his travels from Jamaica to Venezuela, to Cuba and his return home.

Course 1: Sat’deh beef bone soup — pumpkin purée, infused with island flavour beef bone stock & escallion butter braised marrow then garnished with Arosa beef demi-glaze

Course 2: Sailing schooners (ceviche) — lobster medallion and shrimp blue sea lemonade, mango salsa, festival sand, black lump fish egg

Course 3: Jamaican Arroz Con Pollo — Scotch bonnet scented pan seared Frenched chicken with Sunday Monday rice and peas, string beans, cherry tomato, fry ring, au jus

Course 4: Pescado Encocado — thyme scented sea bass, orange coconut sauce, pickled dry starfruit, twice fried ripe plantains

Course 5: Venezuelan Golden Beef Mine — ribeye, dried onion, truffle pumpkin and sweet red wine beet puree, stew beef gravy, blue cheese coffee crumb, cubed potato

Course 6: Sweet Sweet Jamaica — bacon and coconut drops, almond scented asham, piña colada gizzarda, coconut ice cream, coconut meringue

THE ACCOMPANYING WINES

The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Vice Conseiller Culinaire Pierre Battaglia wanted to change things up a bit, so instead of the usual wine service order of serving white wines first, he suggested that dinner commence with a red wine. The 2014 Babich Headwaters Organic Pinot Noir from Marlborough, New Zealand was served with the soup. This wine is medium-bodied, with fine texture and layers of flavour including some nutmeg, cherry, and vanilla.

The next wine, another from New Zealand the 2017 Kim Crawford Signature Reserve Sauvignon also from Marlborough, New Zealand was served with the ceviche. This wine is an exuberant Sauvignon Blanc, with intense aromatics of tropical fruit that lead into a range of crispy complex mineral flavours.

ROSÉ ON THE RISE

I am happy to see more rosé on wine lists and being consumed in Jamaica. Served with the chicken dish was the 2017 Miraval Rosé a delicious wine from the Cotes de Provence, France. It is produced by a winery owned jointly by Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. This wine has aromas of strawberries, raspberries and red berries; in the mouth it is nicely balanced with lots of strawberries, apricot and raspberries. Good freshness and acidity with a clean finish.

A beautiful Chardonnay was served with the sea bass. The 2017 Bouchard Pere & Fils Pouilly-Fuisse from Maconnais, Burgundy, France is a perfumed, silky and elegant wine exhibiting a delicate bouquet with fruit notes of peach, apple and spice flavours, and floral notes. It is a fresh and elegant wine, with good minerality.

Which wine to serve with the ribeye?

Most people will automatically choose Cabernet Sauvignon to pair with beef, but our wine consultant Debra Taylor, Select Brands trade development manager, a connoisseur of big wines, opted for the 2016 Montes “Folly” Syrah from Colchagua Valley, Chile. This wine is purple-hued from rim to core, steadfastly opaque. Very elegant nose, with intense hints of blueberries, cassis and currants, together with soft aromas of chocolate and a subtle toast. The palate is robust and balanced, with soft tannins and a long, hedonistic finish.

Instead of pairing another wine with dessert, dinner closed with a specially crafted cocktail named the Stiebel Digestif, a delightful tropical cooler made with Jamaican rum, pineapple juice and Jamaica’s own Stone’s Ginger Wine.

An absolutely wonderful evening was had by the full house of Chaîne des Rôtisseurs members and their guests.

Christopher Reckord — Wine Enthusiast and CEO of Managed IT services provider tTech Limited. Send your questions and comments to creckord@gmail.com. You can also follow me on Facebook, Instagram @chrisreckord and on Twitter: @Reckord