Upon his arrival to Argentina in the early 1990s, Bordeaux-born Frenchman Hervé J Fabre set about acquiring old Malbec vineyards in the country, some dating as far back as 1908, when Malbec was viewed as little more than a blending partner. Seeing the incredible potential of the Argentine terroir, Fabre then built his first winery, Fabre Montmayou, in Luján de Cuyo in 1992. He would then go on to launch Viñalba in 2007, having spent the 15 years prior identifying a number of different vineyard sites in the Valle de Uco which offered perfect conditions for Malbec and other varieties. Fabre’s upbringing in Bordeaux influenced the elegance and subtlety expressed in his winemaking, and it is this savoir-faire, dedication, and passion as a vintner since 1992, that led him to becoming the first winemaker to produce a single varietal Malbec in Argentina.

Fabre’s journey began in the heart of Bordeaux, France, where the art of winemaking flowed in his veins, but he yearned for more than the familiar. So, seeking new horizons, new flavours, and a deeper connection to the earth, he travelled to Argentina with its then untamed landscapes and undiscovered vineyards. When he arrived in the South American country with his wife Diane, the landscape’s dramatic beauty and the promise of new beginnings enchanted them. Yet, it was the Uco Valley, with its hauntingly beautiful vines, that cast a spell on Fabre and upon acquiring a vineyard in this region, he christened it Viñalba, for the “vines at dawn”. The story of Bodega Viñalba is one of mystery, passion, and an ancient connection to the land, where the very vines seem to whisper secrets of the past.

Hidden beneath the Andes Mountains, the Uco Valley holds the key to Bodega Viñalba’s allure dating back to the dawn of the 20th century, when a French viticulturist named François Duval came across this secluded land. So entranced was he by the rugged beauty and the promise of the fertile soil, he decided to plant its first vines. Decades would pass and the vineyards’ ownership would shift, but the vines remained steadfast. It wasn’t until Hervé Joyaux Fabre, another Frenchman with an insatiable thirst for adventure and fine wine, stumbled upon this treasure that its story truly began. From the moment Joyaux Fabre laid eyes on the vines, he felt an inexplicable connection and was convinced they held the key to crafting wines unlike any other.

As he walked the vineyards each day caressing the leaves, tasting the grapes, and listening to the silent stories they shared, it was as if the vines themselves were his mentors, guiding him in the art of winemaking in this enchanting corner of the world. Bodega Viñalba’s journey was not without its challenges, however, as Herve’s quest for excellence led him to focus on a grape that was virtually unknown in Bordeaux: Malbec. The Uco Valley’s terroir proved to be the perfect stage for this grape variety, and under his watchful eye, the vines thrived. Malbec became Bodega Viñalba’s signature, a symbol of the vineyard’s ability to coax the best from the land. Over time, Fabre’s Malbecs were celebrated for their deep, velvety flavours, their rich, dark hues, and their ability to transport the drinker to the very heart of the Uco Valley.

As Bodega Viñalba’s reputation grew, so did the Joyaux Fabre family with his son, Patricio, growing up amidst the vines, while learning the secrets of the Uco Valley. His father’s passion for winemaking had ignited a fire within him, and he knew he was destined to carry on the legacy. Patricio, like his father, embraced the vines as teachers and the terroir as his muse. He knew that the wines he crafted had to honour not only the land but also the generations before him who had tended to these very vines. The very essence of Bodega Viñalba was intertwined with the terroir, and it was a relationship that Herve, Diane, and Patricio cherished and nurtured with unwavering dedication.

Thursday Food explores five of Bodega Viñalba’s outstanding, award-winning red wine vintages as the Argentina winter draws to a close:

Viñalba Patagonia Reserve Malbec is a 100 per cent Malbec that is made from vineyards located in the Rio Negro region of Patagonia. This wine scored 86 points at the 2023 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) where it also earned a bronze medal. It is beautiful and elegant, expressing nice aromas of cassis, blackberries, fresh violet petals, liquorice and touches of vanilla. In the mouth it is peppery yet soft and well-balanced with some hints of vanilla.

Viñalba Cuvée Diane, a red blend comprising 85 per cent Malbec and 15 per cent Cabernet Franc from vineyards in Lujan de Cuyo, scored 89 points while earning for itself a bronze medal at the 2023 DWWA. It is delicate on the nose with fresh aromas of red dark cherries, some appealing leafy notes under liquorice, a touch of mint along with delicious vanilla aromas from the French oak. On the palate, it is round, soft, supple and rich with silky tannins that all end in a very long, spicy and elegant finish.

Viñalba Malbec (Reserve) is a 100 per cent varietal originating from vineyards in Mendoza’s Uco Valley that won a silver medal after scoring 93 points at the 2023 DWWA. This wine exhibits rich and inviting aromas that combine smooth blackcurrant, violet and plum flavours with toasty vanilla oak. In the mouth, it is vibrant, having lively acidity on the palate.

Parrilla Malbec by Viñalba, a 90-point, silver medal-winning 100 per cent varietal, originates from vineyards in Mendoza. A deep ruby colour, this vibrant Malbec is fruit-driven on the nose expressing a burst of aromas and flavours including damson, blackberry and plum. On the palate it is also smooth with juicy acidity, ripe tannins and a dry yet silky finish.

Viñalba Malbec Touriga Nacional (Reserve) is an exceptional collaboration between Hervé Joyaux Fabre and his friend, award-winning winemaker Rui Reguinga. Earning a total score of 95 points at the 2023 DWWA, the wine was awarded a gold medal. This red blend is made up of 80 per cent Malbec and 20 per cent Touriga Nacional – a red wine grape variety considered by many to be Portugal’s finest. This collaboration produced a wine that is both powerful and elegant with a rich, complex palate of blackcurrant and plum flavours. On the nose, it expresses enticing aromas of floral, plum and mulberry. The palate also ripe, broad tannins which manage to convey a sense of stoniness and purity.

Today, Bodega Viñalba stands as a testament to the power of connection: to the land, to the vines, and to the generations of winemakers who have woven their stories into every bottle. Today, the Joyaux Fabre family, with Patricio at the helm, continues to honour the legacy of Hervé’s vision.

Salud!