For over a century, the vermouth culture has been engraved in Argentine society ever since the first set of Spanish and Italian immigrants arrived to the country’s federal capital, Buenos Aires, also known as the “Paris” of South America. The wave of European immigration to South America in the 19th century brought with it a rich tapestry of culinary traditions and cultural influences. Argentina’s large population of European immigrants quickly embraced vermouth as part of its culinary landscape, with the bustling port city of Buenos Aires becoming a hub for trade and cultural exchange. This saw vermouth finding its way into local bars, cafés, and restaurants on its way to solidifying itself as an integral part of Argentinean social life. As we celebrate International Vermouth Day today, Thursday Food pays homage to Argentina’s enduring love affair with vermouth and the role it has played in shaping its culinary landscape by introducing a few of the country’s best labels.

Vermouth, a fortified wine flavoured with various botanicals, herbs, and spices, has its origins deeply rooted in European history, dating back to ancient times when medicinal wines infused with herbs were believed to possess healing properties. However, it wasn’t until the Middle Ages that vermouth, as we know it today, began to take shape and its modern incarnation often attributed to Antonio Benedetto Carpano, an Italian herbalist. It is he who crafted the first commercial vermouth in the late 18th century, a creation known as Vermouth di Torino, made from a blend of white wine infused with a proprietary mixture of botanicals, including wormwood, which gave the beverage its distinctive bitterness. From Italy, vermouth spread across Europe, becoming especially popular in France, where it found its way into the fashionable cafés and bistros of Paris. French vermouth, often referred to as vermouth blanc or vermouth dry, gained renown for its elegant, herbaceous profile and became a staple ingredient in classic cocktails such as the Martini and the Negroni.

In Argentina, vermouth transcended its status as a mere beverage and evolved into a cultural phenomenon deeply intertwined with the country’s social rituals and traditions. It became customary for Argentinians to gather with friends and family for “la hora del vermut”, the vermouth hour, a prelude to the main meal in which vermouth is served neat as an aperitif, or in cocktails, alongside appetisers and lively conversation. The Argentinean love affair with vermouth was further solidified by the emergence of iconic brands such as Cinzano, Martini & Rossi, and Carpano, whose distinctive labels adorned the shelves of bars and households across the country. These vermouth brands, with their rich history and heritage, became synonymous with sophistication and elegance, embodying the cosmopolitan spirit of Buenos Aires.

In recent years, as the global cocktail renaissance continues to gain momentum, vermouth is experiencing a resurgence in popularity across South America, and indeed the world, as bartenders and mixologists rediscover its versatility, incorporating it into innovative cocktails and reinterpretations of classic recipes. In Argentina, the vermouth industry is thriving, with local producers experimenting with unique botanical blends and ageing techniques to create varieties that reflect the country’s terroir and cultural diversity. From traditional sweet vermouths to modern dry expressions, Argentinian varieties offer a spectrum of flavours and styles to suit every palate. In fact, the country has exported in excess of US$13 million worth of vermouth in the last few years, placing it amongst the world’s top 10 largest exporters of the beverage.

Since vermouth is a drink based on wine (white, red or rosé), combined with extracts of herbs, flowers, fruits and spices, to be considered as such, it must have at least 75 per cent wine. It is generally served in a proportion of 70 per cent vermouth and 30 per cent soda, ice and a slice of citrus, although many of the current versions, that are more pleasantly flavoured, are enjoyed alone with ice. It was the renowned Italian bartender and vermouth producer Giancarlo Mancino who created the first International Vermouth Day, with its inaugural celebration taking place on March 21, 2021. Today, Thursday Food commemorates International Vermouth Day 2024 by introducing five of Argentina’s best labels:

La Fuerza or Vermouth of the Andes is made in Mendoza by creators Julián Díaz, Agustín Camps, Sebastián Zuccardi and Martín Auzmendi, with wines, botanicals and wild herbs from the mountain range. Their beverages include La Fuerza Rojo, which is Malbec-based; La Fuerza Blanco, made from Torrontés; and La Fuerza Primavera, also made from Torrontés, has a more floral and exotic palate. They also produce Sideral, a vermouth that rested for 12 months in oak barrels, previously used for wine, which exhibits a flavour that is super-friendly and round, ideal for drinking neat with ice and an orange peel.

Lunfa Vermouth, created by perfumer Julián Varea, is based on high-end wines and features Lunfa Rosso which is a Torrontés from Cafayate that exhibits florality with notes of jasmine, roses and hops. Gentian and artichoke are also present giving it the characteristic bitterness of vermouth. Lunfa Rosé, based on a co-fermented blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, has citrus and woody notes due to its bitter orange peels, as well as red sandalwood, licorice, cocoa and cardamom.

Único Vermouth was created in Argentine Patagonia and has among their wine-based varieties: Único Rojo Joven made from Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay, is macerated with native herbs such as jarilla, hops and thistle, making it aromatic, with a fruity, fresh and wild flavour. Único Rojo Reserva is made from the same varietals and aged nine months in oak barrels, after which notes of vanilla and spices are added, resulting in it being round in the mouth, without losing its wild character. Único Single Barrel Rojo Añejo is based on Cabernet Franc that rested in oak barrels for three years.

Cinzano Segundo, a vermouth from Mendoza based on Malbec, herbs and Argentine botanicals, is the first label of the emblematic Italian brand that has been produced outside of Italy. Cinzano Segundo has two macerations where the mix of secret Cinzano Rosso herbs are macerated in the wine base, and then combined with the Malbec maceration made from local herbs (chamomile and Lujan de Cuyo mugwort). The blend is completed with botanicals such as cinnamon and orange peel, making it an expressive vermouth, with an aroma of black fruits that refer to plum, typical of Argentine Malbec, along with a fruity, herbal and enveloping flavour.

Léonce Rosé Criolla Vermouth is the latest development by the French viticulturist François Lurton, owner of the Piedra Negra Winery in Mendoza, whose vermouths already include Léonce Extra Dry de Sauvignon Blanc in addition to Léonce Rouge de Malbec. This new label, made from Criolla rosé wine native to Argentina that is grown on a certified organic plot in the Tupungato area, perfectly combines the fresh and fruity notes of this traditional strain with 21 botanicals that give it citrus, herbaceous notes and a soft bitterness. The resulting elixir exudes great aromatic and flavour complexity, ideal to drink alone, with a premium tonic, or in fine cocktails such as a Dry Martini.

Vermouth remains a symbol of conviviality and camaraderie in Argentina, its complex aromas and flavours serving as a testament to the craftsmanship and artistry of the winemakers who have preserved this timeless tradition for generations to come. Today, on International Vermouth Day, let us raise our glasses in celebration of its enduring legacy and the role it plays in bringing people together, both in Argentina and around the world. Salud!