AS Jamaica’s natural hair market evolves, a shift toward specialised, higher-value services like microlocs is reshaping how some entrepreneurs position their businesses.

One such entrepreneur is stylist and owner of Hair by Tess, Tess Simpson, who is pivoting after more than a decade in protective styling. Simpson entered the industry 13 years ago, at a time when the natural hair movement was regaining momentum. Unable to find a stylist to properly manage her own hair, she began doing it herself and eventually attracted attention from others who wanted similar results.

“I’m really self-taught; I didn’t go to school,” she told the Jamaica Observer in an interview.

Starting in her early 20s with Marley twists, she later expanded into faux locs, building a steady client base focused on protective styles. After initially operating from home the first two years, she spent close to a decade working out of a salon in Half-Way-Tree before returning to a home-based set-up in 2022, citing ongoing challenges within the salon environment.

As demand for her services grew, Simpson hired assistants to manage client volume but says she faced ongoing challenges with reliability and professionalism.

In 2024 she eventually partnered with someone she describes as equally passionate about the business, marking a turning point and a shift in focus toward microlocs. The decision, she explained, is largely driven by market conditions. While braiding services have become widely available locally, Simpson’s business partner, Floashade Balogun, believes microlocs offer a more specialised niche with increasing demand, particularly among clients seeking to grow or maintain natural hair with a more polished finish.

“People want locs, but with a more refined look. Sisterlocks are locked from root to tip and can take longer to install and maintain, while microlocs use methods similar to traditional locs but take less time overall,” Balogun said.

Microlocs are ultra-small, versatile locs installed through braiding, twisting or interlocking. They emerged as a popular alternative to both traditional locs and sisterlocks. They offer a balance between aesthetic appeal and lower long-term maintenance, though they still require regular retightening every four to seven weeks.

Installation for microlocs can take between 10 and 12 hours with two stylists, depending on hair length and density, while sisterlocks may require multiple full-day sessions. Prices for microlocs start at approximately $60,000, with retightening sessions beginning at $17,000 upwards, based on hair length. Despite the pivot, Hair by Tess remains committed to long-standing clients.

“I’ve been in this business 13 years now. I have had clients for a long time, and I can’t just turn my back on those clients. No, I’m not going to do that,” Simpson told the Sunday Finance.

Despite earlier challenges in finding the right team, Simpson remains focused on scaling the business, with plans to transition from a home-based operation to a dedicated salon space, expanding her team with stylists specialising in microlocs and sisterlocks.

Microlocs continue to gain popularity as a versatile natural hairstyle, offering a balance between style, manageability, and long-term hair maintenance..

Business partners Tess Simpson (left) and Floashade Balogun, who are driving the Hair by Tess transition into microlocs as the brand shifts toward more specialised natural hair services..

Tess Simpson, stylist and owner of Hair by Tess.

Business partner Floashade Balogun also produces natural hair oils and microlocs starter kits as part of the Hair by Tess products and services offerings..

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