South African designers court local fashion industry

The All Woman fashion team spent Labour Day with South African top fashion designers, top UK hair stylist, Desmond Murray, and Canadian make-up artist, Kandace Corey.

Theirs was a different type of Labour Day project — an early celebration perhaps of what might just be the first chapter in a volume on the South African-Jamaican fashion link.

These fashion notables are in Jamaica, and participated in the Saint International Mecca of Style 2003 –The South African Window, which took place last night at the Jamaica Pegasus.

It’s an important stop, for according to Michael, Pokroy of Marc and Michael a designer of 13 years whose designs are worn by Hollywood actress, Charlize Theron and Zanike Mbeki wife of the President of South Africa, “we’d love to have Saint International models for Cape Town Fashionweek. Theirs is a look that has crossover appeal, they are very tall, the perfect size, sensual, and refined”. Fellow designer, Charmaine Zuma, adds that “these models are a breath of fresh air”.

Good news for Saint International and even better news for Jamaica’s fashion and entertainment industry, as South Africa is now seen (since September 11) as the ‘safe’ place. It’s the hot film location, fashion shoot location, video shoot location, and yes, the name Mandela still carries its very own mystique. Little surprise therefore, that South Africa’s top travel man Robert Wilke of Seekers Travel, is also part of this fashion team. Cape Town also happens to be one of the most beautiful places in the world, and would naturally welcome more tourists.

And what of the designs?

Marc and Michael are noted for designs for the woman with very little inhibitions. “We design” says Michael, “for the woman who wants to be noticed. Our designs are definitely not for the faint-hearted. Our clothes are worn by the who’s who of South Africa and we’ve shown in Australia, and the United Kingdom. In fact we are at the moment negotiating the launch of a line in the United Kingdom.

“Our Jamaican collection suggests Asian and African influences — A kind of art deco feel and look. We use pure silk, chiffon, organza, satin, and in fact design, and print our own fabrics, which are sourced from the traditional fashion metropolis. Our designs suggest summer fruits: Apple greens, slight hints of Hawaii, waterproof silks, cherry blossoms, orchids, fuschia, pink reds, and aubergines.”

Marc and Michael are ready to be embraced by the Jamaican female, who has already impressed them with their “distinctive and stylish fashion sense”.

Avi Muller, another hot designer, has been busy dressing men for three years. He has found his niche in this very competitive arena by pointing his scissors in the direction of those “body conscious men”. The All Woman team was left in total agreement at the sight of Desroy in clean, seductive silk white with plaited details.

South African designs have held on to ethnic traditions and Charmaine Zuma, an attorney-at-law and part -time designer, bridges tacks for both new and old South Africa. Her advent into the world of fashion was purely accidental, a result of her involvement in training opportunities for unemployed women.

“The African Renaissance movement encouraged by South African president, Thabo Mbeki, has given the wearing of traditional African designs lots more appeal, hence a definite fashion edge”. The typical Xhosa dress, for example, as worn in the rural areas, is now tempered to suit the latest fashion trends. At weddings, traditional wear is preferred. Charmaine’s creations are individually designed. There has, however, been a demand for traditional African wear to be available for hire.

We suspect our next South African report will come from Cape Town during Fashionweek with lots of Saint International models on the runway.

The ‘edgy’ hair stylist, Desmond Murray

In Jamaica for Saint International’s International Mecca of Style 2003 was Desmond Murray. His brush, and scissors have gone through the locks of Julia Roberts .”She needed extensions for the movie Notting-Hill,” says Murray in his typical easy, humble manner. Elle McPherson has also sat in his chair, as well as members of the hot group, Destiny’s Child. The list is both long and impressive.

British-born with Jamaican roots (he has just returned to the hotel from visiting his mother in St Elizabeth).

A welcome respite for a man who has travelled to South Africa, Paris and now Jamaica, all in one month, and all in the name of hair.

Murray has been in business for 25 years and his credo is quite simple “you reap the benefits of whatever you put in”. Some would say that he already has. A pied a terre in Fulham TV shows, a styling chair in fashionable Baker Street, lots of editorial work, and almost every hair award. There’s still more for Murray to achieve however. He wants the lucrative rewards of fame — hairdressing salons all over London.

What’s hot in hair right now?

In London the demand is for hair extensions, plaits, dreadlocks. I’m considered an “edgy” designer so my clients come to me for a non-traditional look.

This look (see photo) is a typical editorial one. PM wear, quite elegant. The feathers add another dimension. The total look took me 10minutes.