Sleek, cool versatile linen
In earlier generations the word linen would evoke thoughts of our grandmother’s closet containing her heirloom of bedspreads, tablecloths, doilies and perhaps curtains. Now, linen has taken on a new appeal.
Why the interest?
Texture, price and variety, say fabric experts.
“Linen gives a good finish and wears well. Moreover, it feels good against your skin, not like some materials that irritate. You can dress it up or make it casual – great for all occasions – it goes straight across the board, from work to party because a variety of styles can be had,” said Pamela Byfield-Beckles, assistant manager of Pablo’s in Central Plaza, Kingston. Byfield-Beckles, who deals with fabric daily, said that linen is the choice for most especially as there is a variation in prices and so can be afforded by most pockets.
Without a doubt, linen’s allure lies in the impact of its multiple-choice selections. In addition, to grade and texture, there are lots of reconstruction to this unique material that create different looks, for example, reverse stitching, cut (because the fall of the garment is important) and cutwork. There are also bold, graphic prints that contrast well with solid colours and eye-catching details, like it being laced, and crocheted appliqué attachments.
The manoeuvrability of the fabric is a leeway for designers and manufacturers alike. Simple cuts are exceptional with linen, hence long, sleek dresses, flowing pantsuits for both ladies and men, babies’ attire (read GAP), unisex resort wear and even hats. Texture, of course, is of particular relevance, especially for clothing such as jackets and vests, and for the more dramatic outfits like drapery and slipcovers, the heavier, the better.
Linen is known, especially for Jamaicans, for its strength, coolness and lustre. No wonder it’s a mainstay in the tropics where it tackles humidity superbly.
The look can hardly be mistaken because of the noticeable creases, an attribute of the fabric that is loved by many. Yes, it is great for travelling in, just layer and ignore the crushed look as it enhances the quality of the blend, you’ll be excused.
Jamaicans make linen a favourite and in every sub-culture of the island-dancehall, uptown, rural – linen is the boss. Even some hoteliers depend on linen to grace their tables and to be spread on the laps of their patrons, once they’re seated for dinner.
“Hoteliers and Chinese restaurateurs swing towards matte linen (a blend of mostly polyester and linen) for their napkins because it washes well, doesn’t fade easily, presses well because it stands up for their unique table-top designs,” said Byfield-Beckles.
Linen is described as a cloth made from flax. The flax plant is an annual and is grown both for its fibre and seed. The largest flax-growing country is Soviet Russia, which produces approximately 90 per cent of the total flax crop of the world.
When the flax is being harvested, it is pulled, not cut, as cutting would not only cause injury but valuable fibre would be also be lost. So hand pulling – a tedious and expensive operation – is recommended.
Maintaining the beauty of a pure linen damask tablecloth, a sophisticated pants suit, a beautiful summer dress, elegant draperies or a gift set of fresh sheets and pillowcases can be done effortlessly if laundered properly.
Linens do not always have to be dry-cleaned. It should first be checked to see to what degree the fabric was pre-shrunk, composition of thread and trimmings, dyes used, treatment for crease or stain resistance, tightness of weave, blend and construction of the textile. With all those in mind, laundering options such as handwashing and machine wash can be explored.
