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All Woman
 on August 2, 2009

Treating ingrown hairs and razor bumps

Dr Neil Persadsingh 

The hair in people of African descent is unique, both in shape and in structure.

The hair root is curved and the hair is likely to be tightly curled. Therefore, when the hair is shaved, ingrown hairs are a real possibility and both ingrown hairs and razor bumps – although found mostly in men – can occur in women, especially if there is excessive facial hair which is shaved or on the legs or bikini area if these are shaved.

What happens is that when the hair is shaved, the sharp pointed end can curl back and pierce the skin. If the hair pierces only the epidermis, which is the uppermost layer of the skin, there is no problem as the hair will grow out and spring free. If, however, the hair pierces the dermis, which is the lower layer of the skin, then the body will set off an inflammatory reaction and a razor bump will develop.

If a man develops razor bumps on the face after shaving, a good solution would be to grow a beard. But in some professions, such as the police force and the army, a beard is not an option as regulations stipulate that the faces of staff members be clean-shaven.

Shaving with an electric razor may help as the hair is not cut as close to the skin as with an ordinary razor. When using an ordinary razor, it is best to use shaving soap and to lather the face well. Allow the lather to stay on for a few minutes so that the hair is softened. Shaving creams, which come in cans, do not soften the hair and are best avoided. The hair should be shaved only in the direction in which it grows and never against the direction in which the hair grows. The skin should not be stretched while shaving, and it is best to shave daily – first thing in the morning.

There are chemicals such as MAGIC SHAVING POWDER which can be used to remove the hair from the face. This can be used every two days, but the directions for use must be closely followed.

Electrolysis, which is a permanent way to remove unwanted hair, has not been very successful. This is because the hair is curved and it is very difficult to hit the hair root. Thus, in most cases, the hair continues to grow and all that happens is that the skin becomes black.

X-rays were once used to stop the hair from growing. This is a permanent way to treat the disease, but some people went on to develop skin cancer, so this form of treatment is no longer used.

Glycolic acid is the latest form of treatment for ingrown hair. This is applied to the face as a cream at nights and it softens the hair while it is still in the skin and prevents the formation of ingrown hairs and razor bumps.

There is a cream called VANIQUA which is available in the USA. When it is applied to the skin, it suppresses hair growth. This would seem to be the wave of the future.

There is also laser hair removal. This is permanent, but it is expensive and is time-consuming. So if you have ingrown hairs or razor bumps, do not despair. There is no need to worry as there are many treatment options available.

Dr Neil Persadsingh is a skin specialist. He is the author of Acne in Black Women and The Hair in Black Women. For a free download of cosmetics and moisturisers for the woman with acne, please check out his website at acneinblackwomen.com.

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