Waah Gwaan Café

Jamaica Observer Table Talk Food Awards judge Patricia Henry-Brown reviews Waah Gwaan Café.

Jamaica Observer Table Talk Food Awards judge Patricia Henry-Brown tucks into the jerk barbecue chicken salad.Patricia Henry Brown

Jamaica Observer Table Talk Food Awards judge Patricia Henry-Brown tucks into the jerk barbecue chicken salad. (Photo: Patricia Henry Brown)

Located downtown, this tiny café feels less like something you stumble upon in Kingston and more like a lower Manhattan gem. It’s the kind of design-forward spot you would expect to find on a side street in SoHo or Tribeca. White walls rise into exposed, black-painted HVAC ducts, a sole industrial metal fan overhead, and rope-hung pendant lights, cast a warm glow on wood-finish tile flooring below. I’ve always had a liking for raw slab tables, and these were paired with black mixed-metal chairs and benches in the space. The colour pops come from Jamaican slangs and menu boards vibrantly displayed on the walls

The space is compact but deliberate, balancing urban design style with understated chic in a way that immediately transports you beyond Harbour Street. Finding it, however, is part of the experience but don’t we get lost in NYC hunting down cafés recommended by Yelp? Though officially listed as 19-21 King Street, the actual entrance is tucked along Harbour Street, and with little to no convenient parking nearby, first-timers may need a bit of patience before discovering this gem. I called for directions before I set out on my journey, passed the spot once, called again and got it the second time around.

The décor inside Waah Gwaan CaféPatricia Henry Brown

The décor inside Waah Gwaan Café (Photo: Patricia Henry Brown)

While on location, I noticed several pick-up bikes and calls were coming in constantly, placing orders.

The unique wall art inside Waah Gwaan Café Patricia Henry Brown

The unique wall art inside Waah Gwaan Café (Photo: Patricia Henry Brown)

Navigation tip: Harbour Street runs east to west, so going easterly, slow down as you approach King Street (north to south) as the entrance would be on your left just before you reach King Street.

[USE TOGETHER] The menu board doubling as wall art.Patricia Henry Brown

[USE TOGETHER] The menu board doubling as wall art. (Photo: Patricia Henry Brown)

Waah Gwaan Café is the brainchild of chef/patron Sherina Whyte along with her business partners, Rhaul Coke and Sasha Kelly. Whyte is a HEART NTA chef de partie certified culinary chef. She shared that food has always been her passion, inspired by her mother’s cooking in the hills of Clarendon. She wanted to tie the culture to the food and bring a nostalgic feeling to patrons. The café opened its doors in November 2021 at the height of the pandemic and recently opened a solar-powered (first of its kind in Jamaica) food truck located on Grenada Crescent, New Kingston.

The menu board doubles as wall art.Patricia Henry Brown

The menu board doubles as wall art. (Photo: Patricia Henry Brown)

The café offers an ‘out a many” approach to the menu — smoothies, authentic hot and iced teas such a medina latte, cerasse, protein shakes, salads, wraps, sandwiches.

The New Kingston location of the Waah Gwaan Café’s food truck Patricia Henry Brown

The New Kingston location of the Waah Gwaan Café’s food truck (Photo: Patricia Henry Brown)

As a self-acclaimed country girl, Whyte sources fresh produce from local farmers and the Coronation Market. Post-Hurricane Melissa, prices were very high, she said, but her regular vendors at the market tried to give her price breaks when possible.

Jamaica Observer Table Talk Food Awards judge Patricia Henry-Brown (right) shared a toast with Waah Gwaan Café co-principal and chef Sherina Whyte. (Photo: Patricia Henry Brown)

Lunch

Nine Months Later shakePatricia Henry Brown

Nine Months Later shake (Photo: Patricia Henry Brown)

I settled in by the window to have lunch while people watching.

I ordered:

Spurlina Hulk shake (Photo: Patricia Henry Brown)

The Jerk Barbecue Salad: It was a well-composed dish that was fresh, tasty and visually appealing. The salad base comprised a crispy, mix of lettuce, penne pasta, beet and carrots. This was just the right balance for the jerk barbecue chicken

(From left) Turmeric, butterfly pea and beetroot lattesPatricia Henry Brown

(From left) Turmeric, butterfly pea and beetroot lattes (Photo: Patricia Henry Brown)

Crispy Fish Wrap: It was yummy! A contrast of textures and flavours from the very first bite. The coating of the fish was well-seasoned and the fish soft on the inside.

Crispy fish wrap (Photo: Patricia Henry Brown)

Rosemary Lemonade: Always a refreshing drink but a small sprig of dried rosemary was included and although the drink tasted okay, I would have preferred fresh rosemary (abundance in the market) to elevate the look.