Trousers may not be one of the easiest garments to construct, but you might consider making your own if it is hard to find the right fit for your body or the style you are looking for. What is especially hard is the construction of the jeans, but lightweight denim trousers are not as challenging as you might think. After several compliments on a pair of denim trousers not popular in retail stores, we were inspired to show you how to create your own.

You don’t have to rush out to make your own, as it is best to buy most fits, including the trouser fit, from trusted brands. It is also good to know which brands and fits work well for your

body type.

Selecting the Fabric

It is extremely important to select the right fabric, especially in terms of the weight. Very heavy denim will not work for a trouser style, for example. So we recommend a weight less than 12 ounces for flow and comfort. Since this is a tailored look, you way want to avoid the more casual finishes like washing (eg stonewashing) or sandblasting. Dyed options provide colour variety for the denim trousers. Also, look for yarn-dyed rather than fabric-dyed cloth.

Design details for your body type:

. Flat derriere – go for details on the back, such as pockets,

and softer fabrics.

. Larger derriere – pockets at the rear should be flat and without detail. You may have to avoid side pockets that may gape and widen the hip. Try a lower-rise and a wide trouser fit. Go for dark denim as well.

. Straight/ rectangle figure – go for a belted option and a lower rise, and a somewhat boyish style.

. Short waist – elongate the torso

with a low rise, and try to have a belt blend with your top.

. Long waist – the belt should match the bottom to shorten your waist, unless you go with a high-waist option, then the belt could match the bottom.

Other considerations in designing your trousers are:

. A wider band is more flattering for waistlines, including a full tummy.

. Rise should be just below navel/ belly button.

. Hem should be wide – 2-3″.

. Yoke and pockets are good details, but the yoke especially should be omitted for a more tailored look.

Popular denim fits you may already have, and which for different looks help to build a comprehensive wardrobe are:

1. Wide leg: with an allowance around the leg of approximately 4″ or more, it has a looser fit from hip down and opens to a full, wide leg.

2. Trouser leg: leg allowance is approx. 2″-4″, and like the wide-leg fit is looser from the hip down, opening to a full leg with wide hem.

3. Flare leg: is closer to the leg, fitted through thigh and knee and widens from the knee down.

4. Boot cut: is also fitted through thigh and knee, and widens only slightly from the knee down.

5. Straight leg fit: has the same width from knee down to bottom hem.

6. Skinny leg: has a snug fit through seat and thigh and tapers to a narrow leg down to the opening at the ankle.

Steps:

1. Cut front leg, back leg, waistband, and any design pieces, like pockets

2. Insert darts

3. Insert zipper at front

4. Attach front pieces to the back at the inside seam, then side seams

5. Finish side seams

6. Attach waistband and fastening

7. Finish additional seams and hem

Care tip: to preserve your denim’s colour (particularly if dark) wash on the wrong side in cold water. Also, since it’s best not to use the dryer, line-dry or place flat and close openings.