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News
November 12, 2008

A Taste of Hawaii and Kenya inspired by President Elect Barack Obama

I am sure some of you are still on a high having witnessed Barack Obama create history last week. Like many Jamaicans, I was with a bunch of friends rejoicing in the “oh so sweet” victory. Of course, I am a realist and he is inheriting some serious challenges, but when you think back to the Dred Scott vs Sandford case in 1857 where it was ruled that a black man or anyone with African ancestry could not be a citizen of the United States of America, or to the Jim Crow laws of the Deep South and the Civil Rights era, to what is happening now, it’s little wonder that Jesse Jackson’s tears resonated with so many. Here’s a man who worked alongside Martin Luther King Jr and who also tried himself to break that ultimate glass ceiling. just thinking about it makes me so joyful. Also this is not simply about race, but about hope, inspiration and I could continue waxing lyrical, but this is a food column, not a political one!

As I have been completely distracted in the euphoria, when it came time to write this article I was at a loss until my dear friend asked me to write something food related around the election. I began to brainstorm and thought, why not something Kenyan and Hawaiian in nature, a reflection of Obama’s multicultural upbringing?

Kenyan cuisine is not as internationally recognised as its other African neighbours such as the wonderful Cape Malay cuisine of South Africa, the great stews of Senegal or the exotic flavours of Morocco. In fact, one of its most popular dishes, sukama wiki, meaning “stretch the week”, is a dish that consists of spinach, onions and tomatoes and is ‘stretched’ by adding any leftover meat. This is the basis of Kenyan cuisine, its main purpose is not gastronomic delights but simple food made to satisfy and keep one going. The main components of a Kenyan meal are ugali, a thick corn-based porridge that many Kenyans eat daily as an accompaniment to vegetables and meat. A national favourite is nyama choma, which is simply grilled meat, the most popular being goat, then beef.

There is also a heavy Indian influence on the food there, as the British transported many Indians to work in this East African nation during the Empire. Samosas and Pilau Masala, a rice dish, is very common. The recipe is included in today’s column. Kenya is multi-ethnic and depending on where you are located, the people of a particular region and language group will have foods unique to their ethnicity, and geographic features such as lots of fish near the coast and more meat-based dishes in the interior.

Hawaii on the other hand, is a far cry from Kenya. Hawaiian cuisine is influenced by the large influx of Asian people, so you will see Chinese, Korean and Japanese traits in the food. Seafood and pork are popular features on a menu there. Added to this, of course, are strong American influences as well as Portuguese.

A big feature on the Hawaiian culinary landscape is the luau. These celebrations originated in 1819 by King Kamehameha II who hosted a large feast to end religious taboos such as: certain meals could only be eaten by the aristocracy and not commoners, women were separated from men at the table and were forbidden to eat some foods the men ate. Luaus today are used to celebrate birthdays, graduations, other special events and are commercially done for tourists visiting the Hawaiian Islands. Typical foods featured at a luau are poi, which is pounded taro root, huli huli chicken which is made with pure brown sugar soy sauce and ginger, chicken lu’au, a dish prepared with taro leaves and coconut milk, Lomi Lomi salmon that consists of cubed salmon with onions and tomatoes and last but not the least, the main attraction Kalua Pork. This is a whole pig which takes about six to 10 hours of cooking time depending on its size in an imu. An imu is a pit which is dug into the earth, lined with logs and topped with rocks covered in banana leaves, then a layer of wet burlap after which the pit is covered.

Hawaiian Style

Pineapple Pork Chops

Hawaiians love pork and since chicken and beef have been featured in the last two columns, here’s a lovely treat for pork lovers. This dish is simple to prepare and very yummy. Pineapples are an important crop in the Hawaiian Islands.

Ingredients:

1 onion, roughly chopped

1 green sweet pepper, roughly chopped

2 tbsp flour

1 tsp salt

1/4 tsp black pepper

1tsp ground ginger

6 pork loin chops

6 pineapple slices

1 tbsp apple cider vinegar

1/4 cup tomato ketchup

1 cup pineapple juice

Salt and pepper to taste

Method:

In a bowl, combine the flour, salt, pepper and ground ginger to make a seasoned coating.

Place the pork loin chops inside, coat well and shake off the excess.

In hot oil, brown the chops on each side until golden in colour and remove from pan.

Get rid of excess oil and leave a little to sauté the onions and green pepper.

In the meantime, mix the vinegar, ketchup and pineapple juice and add to the pan.

Check seasoning and see if you need more salt, pepper or ginger to your taste.

Return the pork chops to the pan and top with pineapple slices.

Cover the pan and cook further (for about 40 minutes) until the meat is cooked through.

Serve with white rice and a side of greens such as bak choy, callaloo or spinach.

Pilau Masala

This spicy rice dish can be eaten by itself or as an accompaniment to grilled meats. I watched my Kenyan friend Monicah prepare this a couple of years ago, so this is my loose interpretation. This serves eight, so you can halve the recipe for fewer guests.

Ingredients:

700g Basmati rice

2250g green peas

2 tbsp Pilau Masala powder (Make your own, see recipe below)

3 onions, thinly sliced

3 tomatoes, blanched, peeled and chopped

Oil for frying

Salt, to taste

Water to boil rice

Pilau Masala Seasoning

Roast and grind 1tbsp cumin seeds, 1 tbsp whole black peppercorns and a couple of cardamoms and cloves each. Mix in 1 tbsp cinnamon powder.

Method:

In a large casserole, heat oil over medium temperature and sauté the onions until brown.

Add the tomatoes and roughly 300ml of water and bring to a boil.

Add masala seasoning, stir well then add another litre of water and bring to a boil again.

Add the rice and green peas, reduce to a simmer and cook until the rice is absorbed, about 25 to 30 minutes.

Serve hot.

Remember to write to me at info@juicychef.com for any food enquiries.

Bon Appétit!

Jacqui Sinclair is a Cordon Bleu-trained chef/food stylist & hotelier. She has worked in the world of food photography and film in Europe. A bon vivant, she is passionate about sharing her food secrets with enthusiastic home cooks.

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