The global financial downturn notwithstanding, restaurateurs say that operating in a recession might actually be a blessing in disguise.

“We are now forced to look inwards and there is a challenge to be more creative and more innovative. You have to get back to the basics,” said design architect Alison Antrobus who, along with Florida-based Ortanique Coral Gables owners Delius Shirley and Cindy Hutson and organic farmer Adam Miller, presented at yesterday’s Jamaica Observer Food Awards Foodie Seminar at the Jamaica Pegasus – ahead of this evening’s Jamaica Observer Food Awards slated for Devon House.

Approximately 100 guests comprising hospitality students, restaurateurs, gourmets, chefs and food purveyors joined the Jamaica Observer for ‘table talk’ on the theme “(Reality) Check Please! An Extraordinary Conversation For Extraordinary Times”.

The conversation was set against the backdrop of a personal message written by Bradford Thompson, former chef at New York’s swanky Lever House Restaurant which was forced to close its doors as a result of the effect of the financial meltdown on that city. Thompson was slated to be among this year’s presenters, but could no longer take the trip for the 11th staging of the Jamaica Observer Food Awards because he has been given the opportunity to setup a kitchen with a business associate.

A real testament to the tough times the food industry is facing and the need to prioritise.

“In October Lehman Brothers, which is located across the street from the Lever House, fell apart and we felt it immediately,” the statement (read to guests by Lifestyle Editor and the morning’s master of ceremonies Novia McDonald-Whyte) outlined. Before long, Lever House had to prevent the further loss of revenue by cutting staff.

“This situation was filled with uncertainty and stress for all of us, but we realised that sooner or later the restaurant would have to close or move in another direction.”

Though the panel of presenters outlined that the spend – in almost every part of the world – has diminished and business is in fact tough, they maintain that the constraints have caused them to examine details that were often taken for granted.

Antrobus said that superb customer service in the Caribbean is rare, if at all it exists. However, she pointed out that the reality of job losses and penny-pinching on the part of the consumers have forced food operators and their staff to respond.

“Maybe if that pay cheque is in jeopardy they (the staff) might want to put on that smile to protect their job.”

That aside, Shirley noted that, the food industry, like most others, received several blows within the last 10 months.

“We’ve had a rollercoaster of a year,” said Shirley on managing the tough times, “we’ve had to make adjustments.”

His partner Hutson explained that adjustments include compiling three separate menus into one in an effort to minimise printing costs and asking staff to reduce the number of days they work.

“It’s not time to take a hiatus, we’re doing everything in our power to remain open,” Hutson said.

“You have to come up with new ways to fill the gap,” Hutson added even as Shirley told the audience that staying afloat involves revamping/refurbishing the restaurant and conducting team-building cooking exercises with corporate entities.

The panellists emphasised that customers are now craving quality for money and that despite the tough situation, he has to keep his staff motivated.

“We have to find ways to make our staff develop a sense of family, community and feel like they are part of the whole,” Shirley said. Antrobus concurred, adding: “This is a time to really regroup with your staff, your customer and your menu. Get to know who your consumer really is.”

For these professionals the consumer is king and to this end Shirley pointed out that food is perhaps a mere 30 per cent of what discerning clients look for in a restaurant.

“The restaurant experience starts from the valet, the décor and service must be superb. great food is just icing on the cake,” the Ortanique Coral Gables restaurateur shared with his audience.

Audience member Dawn Azan, agreed with Shirley, pointing out that “being a good cook doesn’t make a restaurant.” She emphasised, too, that many restaurants often end up in difficulty because they lack proper management.

The sore point of poor customer service resurfaced when Connoisseurs Choice director Michael Braham addressed the panel.

“This is not a restaurant problem, it’s a management problem,” said Braham who admitted that he had served as a banking and finance executive for 32 years. Braham called for more management seminars in Jamaica because “a lot of managers need to stop the profiling and go to work”.

To this end, Jamaica Pegasus hotel manager Nancy McLean stressed the need for teamwork, regular meetings and communication. McLean noted that customers might encounter poor service because the attrition rate among trained staff is so high and clients have to deal with novices.

“What the hotels suffer from is this. as fast as you train, you lose your staff,” McLean said.

On the matter of training, Norma’s On The Terrace restaurateur Norma Shirley expressed that the local training available is not sufficient.

“The training here needs to be on another level,” Mrs Shirley said, adding that selfishness is another problem plaguing the food industry.

But though a third of the panel maintained that the recession has somewhat dented the food industry Miller pointed out that his business has maximised the market shift.

“We failed terribly at growing a whole heap to serve a market that wasn’t necessarily interested in our type of produce,” Miller said, adding that the tough times have caused him to focus on a promising niche.

“Literally six weeks ago we decided that instead of focusing on serving supermarkets, we were going to serve direct end users,” Miller added, “and it’s working out.”

Business, he said, is coming from embassies, caterers and domestic consumers looking for healthy fare that consists of fresh greens and herbs, tomatoes, eggplant and other fruits and vegetables.

The seminar, which lasted from 10:00am to 3:00pm also gave Pastry Passions boss Safiya Burton, Rib Kage restaurateur Gariel Ferguson, award-winning caterer Lorraine Fung and Chas E Ramson marketer Shauna Skeene a platform to interact with the audience.

The business-savvy Burton said that good financial sense these days is key to staying afloat. Fung, who has won the Jamaica Observer Food Awards Caterer of the Year several times, noted that the financially trying times just means the industry has to work harder.

“You go to functions and see me sometimes in water boots and raincoats, the show has to go on,” she pointed out. Little wonder, she informed the audience that she’s fully booked.

“If you don’t recreate, reinvent you’re going to be left behind.whatever business you are in, you must be different if you’re to stay ahead of the pack.”

– RH